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Frame rate!!!!

JoshuaCarlton

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Hello all, I am really hoping somebody can help me here. I know this topic has been discussed a lot but I'm still left so confused. I have seen absolutely beautiful footage shot at 24 and 25 frames per second 4k with the Mavic. However whenever I do it, I get I stutter movement, not just panning, even just creeping along. Is there something that can be done to smooth it out?
 
Hello, you can augment a bit the frames per second, take smoother shots, go in tripod mode or atti mode and don't fly the magic in the winds.
Please like the comment if you saw it.
 
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Hello all, I am really hoping somebody can help me here. I know this topic has been discussed a lot but I'm still left so confused. I have seen absolutely beautiful footage shot at 24 and 25 frames per second 4k with the Mavic. However whenever I do it, I get I stutter movement, not just panning, even just creeping along. Is there something that can be done to smooth it out?

I believe it depends a lot on where you're based too. U.K. For example has tv that refresh differently compared to America for example.




Sent from my iPhone using MavicPilots
 
I appreciate the feedback, it's not just taking smoother shoots, I mean any movement and it's a consistent
I believe it depends a lot on where you're based too. U.K. For example has tv that refresh differently compared to America for example.




Sent from my iPhone using MavicPilots
I am in the states, would that affect my footage playing the video on an iPad Pro?
 
It's not just tv's it's electrical current to (please someone correct me if I'm wrong) but it's the refresh rate in which you screen dumps images.

If your refresh rate in your country is 60frs then you should be aiming to deliver a 30frs footage.

Similarly if it's 50 refresh rate then you should aim for 25 (half that of your refresh rate)

Again, I'm still getting my head around it and need to get my drone before I can offer any more thoughts on it


Sent from my iPhone using MavicPilots
 
It's not just tv's it's electrical current to (please someone correct me if I'm wrong) but it's the refresh rate in which you screen dumps images.

If your refresh rate in your country is 60frs then you should be aiming to deliver a 30frs footage.

Similarly if it's 50 refresh rate then you should aim for 25 (half that of your refresh rate)

Again, I'm still getting my head around it and need to get my drone before I can offer any more thoughts on it


Sent from my iPhone using MavicPilots
Hmmm, that makes sense and is likely what's happening. Thanks for the info!:)
 
Also what program are you using to play back and how powerful is your computer? 4k footage is notorious for needing high processor computers to playback normally. I know Quicktime is pretty bad with playback even with 1080p 24 footage, but I find after converting to Apple ProRes 422 HQ and importing into Final Cut Pro it plays back smoothly.

Just something to think of.
 
Check what your settings are for the camera. ISO, Shutter, Frame Rate. For cinematic smoothness and realistic/natural motion blur it has more to do with Shutter and Frame Rate than anything else. A really fast shutter rate will not give an even blur noticeable and can cause the choppiness you are describing. 1/2000 sec shutter is **** near stop-bit animation. It's just not pretty.

In a perfect example, shooting at 4K, 24 FPS with the ISO at 100, you want to get your Shutter Speed down to 1/50. You have to go into manual mode (for the camera) so you can set these settings. Also, you will need an ND filter if you are shooting in normal lighting. You want to see your EV to be a +/- 0. At 24 FPS, you CAN go to 1/60, but try and stay at 1/50.

Whatever you are using to play it back matters as well. Is it a 4K monitor/TV? What about the computer or device you are playing back from? All of it matters. But if the camera settings are correct, (4K, 24FPS, ISO100, Shutter 1/50 sec) then the video will be fine. Keep the control of the drone smooth (there are plenty of videos and discussions on how to slow down the Yaw and the gimbal speeds) and make your stick movements slow and deliberate.
 
Check what your settings are for the camera. ISO, Shutter, Frame Rate. For cinematic smoothness and realistic/natural motion blur it has more to do with Shutter and Frame Rate than anything else. A really fast shutter rate will not give an even blur noticeable and can cause the choppiness you are describing. 1/2000 sec shutter is **** near stop-bit animation. It's just not pretty.

In a perfect example, shooting at 4K, 24 FPS with the ISO at 100, you want to get your Shutter Speed down to 1/50. You have to go into manual mode (for the camera) so you can set these settings. Also, you will need an ND filter if you are shooting in normal lighting. You want to see your EV to be a +/- 0. At 24 FPS, you CAN go to 1/60, but try and stay at 1/50.

Whatever you are using to play it back matters as well. Is it a 4K monitor/TV? What about the computer or device you are playing back from? All of it matters. But if the camera settings are correct, (4K, 24FPS, ISO100, Shutter 1/50 sec) then the video will be fine. Keep the control of the drone smooth (there are plenty of videos and discussions on how to slow down the Yaw and the gimbal speeds) and make your stick movements slow and deliberate.
Wow man! You are amazing! Thanks for all the information. I am really enjoying learning to shoot in manual mode. This gets me way more interested in photography in general.
 
Hello, you can augment a bit the frames per second, take smoother shots, go in tripod mode or atti mode and don't fly the magic in the winds.
Please like the comment if you saw it.

What does augment the frames per second mean and how do you put the Magic in ATTI mode?

And you get likes from providing correct useful information. Not asking for them... in every post.
 
Hi. I do a fair bit of video editing and rendering. To get best results, match the frame rate to your local setting. In the U.S.A which uses NTSC TV, set your frame rate to 30 or 60. If you are in England, Africa or Australia, which uses PAL, which needs 25 or 50fps. If you use a different frame rate, you will get good still footage, but any movement will be jerky. (It also depends on your TV set or monitor, how compliant it is with different frame rates.) Give it a try and see how you go. Cheers, Terry
 
NTSC and PAL/SECAM are long gone despite some devices keep calling their framerate-options like in the 90ties.

All TVs, in all countries, accept 24, and 30 and 60 fps just fine for many years now.

Computer displays, Smartphones, Tablets etc. at the other hand are generally (!) driven at 60 Hz and are simply not able to provide smooth video at different framerates.

So it is really simple: Use 60 fps whereever you can, fall back to 30 if you have to. If you record at 25 fps (which is wrongly called "PAL") you will just ruin your camera pans. Do not use it. Never.
 
Last edited:
Hello all, I am really hoping somebody can help me here. I know this topic has been discussed a lot but I'm still left so confused. I have seen absolutely beautiful footage shot at 24 and 25 frames per second 4k with the Mavic. However whenever I do it, I get I stutter movement, not just panning, even just creeping along. Is there something that can be done to smooth it out?

The basic rule of thumb is that the shutter speed should be 2x the frame rate. So you may even be better off at 30 fps / 1/60s.

The consequence of this is that you'll probably need an ND filter of at least 3 or 4 stops for daylight shooting. (ND 8, ND 16).
 
The basic rule of thumb is that the shutter speed should be 2x the frame rate. So you may even be better off at 30 fps / 1/60s.

The consequence of this is that you'll probably need an ND filter of at least 3 or 4 stops for daylight shooting. (ND 8, ND 16).

I know that's definitely a widely held rule of thumb Alan but I've found that 1/60 tends to lead to more blurred pans especially when the light isn't great so now I always make sure, if possible, that I'm shooting at at least 1/100. The low shutter speed was I believe established as a means of reducing/eliminating the jello effect, I can't think of any reason other than that why you would want to artificially reduce the shutter speed as the Mavic has a fixed aperture lens and low shutter speeds lead to blur when moving the camera. If we want sharp images using a normal camera on a moving subject, we want higher shutter speeds not lower. At 1/100 or even higher I've never seen the slightest bit of jello on my Mavics.

All imho of course. :)
 
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