Lead Free Solder?

[subcanis]

Does anyone know the proper solder used on the Mavic? I'm replacing a rear arm. I have read here that the solder joints require high heat, so I'm assuming the solder is lead free. I don't know anything about this type of solder, so I'm not sure what to get. Alloy, temp, diameter, etc. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Cyberpower678]

It's lead free solder. And it requires a wide tip heated to at least 750 degrees.

 

[Former Member]

It's lead free solder. And it requires a wide tip heated to at least 750 degrees.

Or 800°

 

[subcanis]

Thanks. I'll definitely need to get a wider tip then. Is all the lead free solder the same? Not sure what diameter or alloy to ask for...

 

[Former Member]

I have learned to add solder to the existing joint on the motor wire on the main board before I start to unsolder it, and that sometimes helps soften the OEM "high melting point" solder that DJI uses. If you need to add solder, use thicker solder, it melts slower and is a little easier to work with. Thin gauge solder sometimes sizzles and splatters tiny droplets of solder in unwanted places on the motherboard that could short out other components.

The key is in the iron that you use. A while ago, I was using a Weller solder station, but that didnt get hot enough, and I had to leave the tip on the solder joint a little too long for comfort, at the risk of damaging the main board. It was ok for microsoldering.

Now when I solder, I use the 2 second test. If my iron doesnt break a solder joint loose in 2 seconds or less, I raise the iron temp.

 

[subcanis]

I have learned to add solder to the existing joint on the motor wire on the main board before I start to unsolder it, and that sometimes helps soften the OEM "high melting point" solder that DJI uses. If you need to add solder, use thicker solder, it melts slower and is a little easier to work with. Thin gauge solder sometimes sizzles and splatters tiny droplets of solder in unwanted places on the motherboard that could short out other components.

The key is in the iron that you use. A while ago, I was using a Weller solder station, but that didnt get hot enough, and I had to leave the tip on the solder joint a little too long for comfort, at the risk of damaging the main board. It was ok for microsoldering.

Now when I solder, I use the 2 second test. If my iron doesnt break a solder joint loose in 2 seconds or less, I raise the iron temp.

NUTS! Is this the one that doesn't get hot enough? It's what I was planning on using...

 

[Former Member]

You can try it at max temperature and as soon as it gets to max, use it. That's what I was using and it maxed out at around 650-700°.

If it doesnt break the solder joint after a few seconds, dont push it.

 

[Former Member]

@Cyberpower678 is that the Weller that you used?

 

[subcanis]

Hmmmm.... I was going to buy this Hakko FX 888D-23BY, but my friend offered to lend me his Weller. I don't want to waste my money though. Any Idea if This would be up to the task?

 

[Former Member]

The specs say it can get to 899° and its only $100 so you can try it. Just try to buy it from somewhere you can return it if it doesnt do the job. Here are it's specs:

Hakko FX-888D Soldering Station, Digital, 70W

 

[subcanis]

I'll roll the dice on it. Thanks for all the advice. I'll let you know how it pans out.

 

[Cyberpower678]

View attachment 13616
NUTS! Is this the one that doesn't get hot enough? It's what I was planning on using...

I have the exact same and it did the job for me.

 

[Cyberpower678]

@Cyberpower678 is that the Weller that you used?

Yes.

 

[Drone Master]

I use the WESD51 digital Weller for all of my repairs. It maxes out at 999.
It has been my choice for years and my go to iron.
Weller tips seem to last a long time with proper care and cleaning.

 

[daveii]

I'd suggest using leaded solder. The only reason to use lead-free is to maintain RoHS compliance. Leaded solder melts and wets at lower temps. and it will help with the lead-free solder that's already there. Leaded solder makes better solder joints also.

 

[subcanis]

Here's the update... The Hakko FX-888D worked perfectly. Set at 800 degrees it broke the solder joints in a second or less. The new rear arm is installed (I decided to stick with the lead free solder) and my Mavic is flying like new.

 

[subcanis]

Here's how it came out.

 

[Raging Blade Aerials]

Guys I'm replacing my right rear arm as well, it came out of it socket and I can't get it back in, when I removed the top shell to the drone two black rubber obrings fell out, are they from inside the housing or they might even be part of the gimbal assembly and were forced down into the housing during the crash? Please help!

 

[Former Member]

Dont worry too much about the orings, they are there to hold down the wires so they dont get stuck in the screw hole. Just make sure you dont screw throught the wires during installation.

The arm has to be installed straight down vertically. As you line it up to install it, make sure the 2 screw holes in the frame are aligned, then make sure the loop goes around the post on top. Look at your other arm to see how it's mounted. Dont force it in or you can possibly break the loop on top.

 

[Haloweenhamster]