TACO FILTER ON - TACO FILTER OFF & NEW SETTINGS

[grizzard]

I captured my camera settings with the TACO-RC ND32 INSTALLED, then in 2nd picture, without changing the settings, pulled the filter OFF, then with the filter still off in the 3rd snapshot readjusted for the best picture. What I see is that without the filter on a bright snow covered day, subjects and any dark areas are not as identifiable as compared to using the filter. And ... I can record with shutter at 2x resolution fps which is supposed to make yaw capture smoother.

#1. TACO-RC ND32 - /ISO 800 / Manual Shutter 1/60 / WB / 7200K / 2.7K @ 30 fps / AF /


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#2. BELOW - NO FILTER - All settings identical to 1st picture….



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#3. BELOW - NO FILTER - ISO 800 /SHUTTER changed to 1/32000 / WB 7200K / 2.7K @ 30 fps / AF (objects in dark area harder to distinguish. )

 

[AyeYo]

You're not using it correctly. The settings aren't supposed to be the same. All of those pictures are grossly over-exposed.

Is there a reason you're using 800 ISO on a snow shot?

 

[grizzard]

Actually the settings are right in the ballpark ....

 

[AyeYo]

The filters do nothing to improve dynamic range or picture quality. They are solely for lowering shutter speed. But you could have lowered shutter speed dramatically in all those shots simply by shooting at 100 instead of 800 ISO.

Manually set 100 ISO, 1/60 shutter, enable the histogram, and then throw the filter on. See where you're at then. More than likely you can get away with an ND16 in those conditions.

 

[grizzard]

You're not using it correctly. The settings aren't supposed to be the same. All of those pictures are grossly over-exposed.

Is there a reason you're using 800 ISO on a snow shot?

I probably didn't expain it that well. The goal is to obtain a setting where the shutter speed is 2x the frame rate and the only way to do that is with a filter. You take off the filter and you get picture #2. You adjust for no filter and you get picture #3. The slower shutter captures more data and reduces the yaw stutter. That's the theory .... but I'd love to see clips that shows otherwise if you have examples under the same conditons?? .... I'm always open to learning.

 

[AyeYo]

I probably didn't expain it that well. The goal is to obtain a setting where the shutter speed is 2x the frame rate and the only way to do that is with a filter. You take off the filter and you get picture #2. You adjust for no filter and you get picture #3. The slower shutter captures more data and reduces the yaw stutter. That's the theory .... but I'd love to see clips that shows otherwise if you have examples under the same conditons?? .... I'm always open to learning.

You're going about it all backwards though. You're shooting at 30fps, so set your shutter to 1/60. Set your ISO to 100 because that'll give you the best quality AND require the least filter. Now it's just a matter of trying on a filter to see which one gives the exposure you want - I'm going to guess in the scene pictured it's an ND16.

 

[Jase]

Yeah you're going about it the wrong way, if you are trying to slow the shutter speed then you would not be using an ISO of 800, start at ISO 100 and then if it needs an ND Filter put on the the one that gives you the right speed, in this case it would not be an ND32!

I think however what you are trying to say in this post the ND32 is giving you worse setting at the same exposure without the ND.

 

[grizzard]

OH WOW .... where were you when I needed you? I have been all over the Internet and YouTube trying to lock in the right settings and all I get are bits and pieces and nothing that explains it as well as you two.. So I had been testing and experimenting trying to find out what worked. I did not know I had control of the ISO. Something I had seen said the aperture was fixed so I looked at everything else except that thinking it was ISO related!! Dohhh. Something as simple as starting out with an ISO of 100 and walking through the rest of the settings should be in the DJi Manual in the camera settings. This really should be a sticky someplace here in the forum. And you should really do a YouTube on this .... Ok ... here is a couple of snaps after I took your pointers and applied them. Using your suggestion of the Taco-RC ND16 on these ....





I am still thinking when I record my yaw gives too much jitter ... and I am trying to be as smooth as possible. As soon as I get it uploaded i'll provide a link here ..... perhaps you would give me a few pointers by looking at the clip on how to smooth the transition without making people dizzy?

 

[grizzard]

Here is a flight after I followed the advice yesterday that you both gave and it is improved substantially. I really appreciate your both staying with me until I understood and tried your pointers. What a difference! The jitter is not so apparent after uploading to YouTube but perhaps YouTube's software enhances to smooth the yaw? In Native size though on my BenQ it is indeed jittery on yaw. It was originally recorded in 2.7K using the settings you recommended, then rendered at 1080 in Filmora, and a portion AutoEnhanced within Filmora before uploading to YouTube. This is a somewhat boring test, but if you have the time please critique where I can improve (besides the boring part).

 

[Starz]

Try slowing down your gimbal speed. Just a suggestion. Try 8 to 10 speed.(helped me)

 

[AyeYo]

Slow your gimbal expo, add some yaw expo (makes it less sensitive around mid-stick), lower the yaw endpoint (gives slower overall yaw speed) - and even after all that, yaw SLOWLY. The jitter is an inherent Mavic flaw that has to do with the way the video is compressed. It simply cannot shoot fast changing scenes smoothly at any setting. That leaves you with only one option: yaw very slowly.

Rather than trying to research Mavic specific camera settings, you might want to just look a general photography tutorial, either written or a Youtube video. The camera functions on the Mavic are no different than any other digital camera.

 

[grizzard]

Great ..... I will check my settings. One problem is the the DJi Go 4 app is different than the display of the DJi Go so sometimes it is a little confusing for me.

 

[Starz]

Haven't I seen where people have problems if both apps are loaded?

 

[grizzard]

Not sure but I did notice that I had the original DJi Go folder even after I uninstalled DJi Go.

 

[Brewsky666]

This will help you:

DJI Mavic Pro

 

[cobra46]

I'm no expert but I think it's still a bit overexposed. The histogram shows this as well.

 

[grizzard]

This will help you:

DJI Mavic Pro

Ah, thank you. More homework
[emoji3]

Sent from my Nexus 6P using MavicPilots mobile app

 

[grizzard]

I'm no expert but I think it's still a bit overexposed. The histogram shows this as well.

I shall go back to ND 32 and try that and find an explanation of that. I know it's light to dark but need to find what to shoot for. Thanks for responding.


Sent from my Nexus 6P using MavicPilots mobile app

 

[grizzard]

Try slowing down your gimbal speed. Just a suggestion. Try 8 to 10 speed.(helped me)

When you say "Gimbal speed" those words do not show in DJi 4.0.1 so I am assuming that you are talking about "Gimbal Pitch Exp"? "Gimbal Pitch Exp" and "Gimbal Start/Stop Buffer" are the only settings I see under Advanced Settings. I have the Gimbal Pitch Exp at 12 and the Gimbal Start/Stop Buffer at 4. Under the MC Settings/ Advanced Settings/ EXP in Gain and Expo Tuning I have Throttle at 25, Rudder Right/Left set at 0.11 and Forwards/Backwards set at 0.23. Under Sensitivity I have Yaw Endpoint set at 50%. Brake and Attitude are at default setting at 100%. Under Gain all settings are default at 100%. Maybe Yaw set at 80% would be better.

 

[Starz]

I'm on 4.0.3 so they must be a little different. Mine has gimbal pitch speed,and gimbal pitch smoothness. Sorry, I'm not sure about your app version and how to change those. Do some searching. I think slowing down the speed of your gimbal will make a difference on at least part of what your doing. Have fun!