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Direct SPLIT SCREEN Comparison Between Air2S and EVO2 Pro Hyperlapse Functions.

cgmaxed

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In this video I flew the Air2S first and recorded in hyperlapse. Then Afterward did the same with the EVO2Pro. I did as much post processing of the videos as I could. Some may say the Air2S video looks better while others may say the EVO2 video looks better, but I don't know how much my skills or lack there of affected each videos appearance. The biggest difference in the videos is that the Air2S remains perfectly still, while the EVO2's gimbal rolls a bit and doesn't stay as stationary as the Air2S. It's like the Air2S is on a tripod and the EVO2 is floating around.
I do have to say the image quality of the EVO2 pro is usually better than the air2s, but in hyperlapse mode the EVO2 drifts significantly. This is why, when I describe the EVO2s, I say it's flight characteristics are "clunky" compared to the rock solid steadiness of DJI drones.

Because I could only show half of each video clip at a time, I switched sides so each half of the video's can be seen in their entirety. In the first half of the video I split the video with the EVO2 on left and Air2S on right, then switched to the Air2S on the left and the EVO2 on the right.
 
Thanks for the comparison. Yeah the EVO does drift more. Stability is the key in my opinion. Were they both stabilized in a video editor? Is the picture quality of the EVO2 Pro as good or better than the Air2S?
 
I don't think the two videos are comparable - too much difference in the two scenes - sky/land proportions, direct sun in one but not the other, etc. As for color and density in general, there are Photoshop gurus who could make the two indistinguishable, right down to matching lens characteristics.
 
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Thanks for the comparison. Yeah the EVO does drift more. Stability is the key in my opinion. Were they both stabilized in a video editor? Is the picture quality of the EVO2 Pro as good or better than the Air2S?
I agree with the other posts. It's not a good comparison. However, what I get from it is that the Autel's stability isn't as good as DJI's. There was no video stabilization performed in the video editor. As far as image quality goes. This video isn't a good comparison, but in general, the Autel EVO2 shoots better video than the Air2S.

Each drone has it's benefits. That's why I use both the EVO2 and the Air2S. Sometimes the EVO2 doesn't move at all in hyperlapse mode. Maybe it has something to do with air stability. Also, I can get a full 30sec hyperlapse with the EVO2, while the Air2S can only give me around 22-23 seconds due to battery depletion.

New Autel and DJI drones are presumed to be released soon. I wonder how they'll perform against one another.
 
That complicates a comparison.
I had to do something with the Air2S footage to make it look better. The Evo2 shoots in HDR 4k 30fps. The Air2S has no HDR video. It looked very washed out with a poor color profile. I tried to get it to look closer to the EVO2 footage. The take away from this, for me at least, is that the EVO2 shoots better footage without the need for post processing, even though it does have Log format if chosen. I like how it's HDR look. The Air2S creates a more stable video, but needs to be processed afterwards to get close to the EVO2s picture quality. When the sun is shining at the EVO2 lens the HDR comes in super handy because the foreground doesn't get underexposed. The Air2s without HDR creates an underexposed foreground if the sun is hitting it's lens, so I have to try to bring the exposure up in the darker areas.

In cases where I have to shoot toward the sun, I give up and just use the EVO2. It balances the colors and exposure really well throughout the entire video frame. When I don't have the sun as an issue, I use the Air2S.
 
I'm not a fan of how the sky come out looking in Autel drones cameras. They always seem too yellow/green compared to the DJI sensors. I don't know if it's a sensor color profile issue or what. Most of the Autel cameras that I've seen (Including my X-Star) have an unnatural cast to a clear blue sky that I don't see on DJI sensors. Don't know why that is but you would think the color balance would be better on Autel sensors.
 
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I'm not a fan of how the sky come out looking in Autel drones cameras. They always seem too yellow/green compared to the DJI sensors. I don't know if it's a sensor color profile issue or what. Most of the Autel cameras that I've seen (Including my X-Star) have an unnatural cast to a clear blue sky that I don't see on DJI sensors. Don't know why that is but you would think the color balance would be better on Autel sensors.
Try using a neutral gray card or a color card in front of the drone in various light conditions (stills) - then read out the actual color error on your computer.

 
It's not a matter of white balance, I'm talking about the color science that comes out raw from the camera with the basic color profile built into the system. Shooting the same scene at the same time I can see the big difference between the two. I've been doing color for a living for almost 30 years and it's just something that's always bothered me with Autel's color on the skies. My opinion is that the color palette for blue skies is much closer on DJI drone than Autel to true representation.
 
It's not a matter of white balance, I'm talking about the color science that comes out raw from the camera with the basic color profile built into the system. Shooting the same scene at the same time I can see the big difference between the two. I've been doing color for a living for almost 30 years and it's just something that's always bothered me with Autel's color on the skies. My opinion is that the color palette for blue skies is much closer on DJI drone than Autel to true representation.
The whole idea behind a color card is to calibrate cameras that have color non-linearities. Exactly what you are trying to say your camera has. You do it in post - you tell your editing software what the correct value for 0x1E3 should be - basically remapping the entire camera color profile. And you can usually do it at several levels, though one level is generally enough. One example of why you need to do this is a cheap ND filter may have a weird spectrum, adding yellow over blues, or greens to reds.

 
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My point is the image straight out of the camera. You can do post production to correct things but I just don't like the sky color that comes out of the Autel cameras compared to the DJI cameras.
 
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