For a beginner

[Porky]

What would be the best way to go for taking Raw photos?

1, single shot in Raw
2, multiple shots using AEB

Remember I’m just getting used to this, novice.. but any guildline’s would be much appreciated.

I took loads of photos a couple of nights ago which had loads of noise then I realised I was shooting ISO1600, very high. I know to keep this low so next time I’ll try in manual made with a low ISO.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Slim.slamma]

I go with AEB when I plan on layering
Like when a part of the the shot is under (under bridge)exposed and other parts like the sky is over exposedhttps://www.adorama.com/alc/how-to-capture-day-and-night-in-one-photo

 

[Porky]

I go with AEB when I plan on layering
Like when a part of the the shot is under (under bridge)exposed and other parts like the sky is over exposedhttps://www.adorama.com/alc/how-to-capture-day-and-night-in-one-photo

Didn’t know if a single shot would do while learning then go onto AEB multi shot x3/5. I know you’ve got some good experience with photography looking at your photos on here but what prosess do you do when you 1st started out. Did you start with AEB?

 

[Meta4]

Didn’t know if a single shot would do while learning then go onto AEB multi shot x3/5. I know you’ve got some good experience with photography looking at your photos on here but what prosess do you do when you 1st started out. Did you start with AEB?

If you are starting out in photography, I'd suggest just working on single photos before complicating the process with advanced techniques.
I swim against the current and would even make the heretical suggestions that you start with jpg images too before diving into the raw deep end.
And I wouldn't recommend using manual mode either.
If you don't know what you are doing, you can easily make a mess of things in manual when the camera's metering could easily get good results.

 

[Porky]

If you are starting out in photography, I'd suggest just working on single photos before complicating the process with advanced techniques.
I swim against the current and would even make the heretical suggestions that you start with jpg images too before diving into the raw deep end.
And I wouldn't recommend using manual mode either.
If you don't know what you are doing, you can easily make a mess of things in manual when the camera's metering could easily get good results.

I’ll be straight with you I’ve played around with photography for some years now but not in a way to achieve great results. I’ve always taken photos in the jpg format but not in Raw hence why I’m asking the question. I’ve also thought about taking photos with my drone in Raw/jpg so if I can’t manipulate the Raw file I can then full back on the jpg.

I thought you would have better control over the camera when in manual mode but your the expert who would know.

I had the camera in auto mode a couple of evenings ago & that’s why it gave me ISO of 1600... & so much noise in the photo. What can I do to achieve a lower iso in auto?

I really appreciate your answers just like you did with “the rule of 3rds..”

Anything else that would help with Raw.

 

[dannybgoode]

The most important thing is to understand what a raw file is and for what reason you want to shoot in it.

Raw photos are not automatically better and indeed when you first open a file in Lightroom or whatever the chances are it will look flat and lifeless - much worse than the out of camera jpeg.

Keep in mind that the JPEG’s a camera takes are simply it processing the raw file on the fly and applying a pre-programmed ‘recipe’. Even a basic camera that doesn’t save raw files works like this.

All shooting in raw does is allow you to apply your ‘recipe’ to the file and to tweak it to your liking. Usually (because you’re chucking a huge amount of processing power at the problem compared to whats built in to the device) the results are a little better but it takes time and practice to become competent at raw editing.

Indeed, if the photo is well framed and taken in good light in is sometimes not really worth the effort messing around with the raw file.

 

[Slim.slamma]

What software are you using @Porky?

 

[Porky]

Hey @Slim.slamma, lol..

Software I’m using at the mo is photomatix pro 6 & Affinity photo on my iMac.

Don’t wanna pay a monthly subscription for the other well known ones..

 

[Slim.slamma]

Software I’m using at the mo is photomatix pro 6 & Affinity photo on my iMac.

I used iMac myself with HDR Software - Best HDR Photo Editor for Mac & PC | Aurora HDR 2019

Then I switched to the iPad Pro with Lightroom cc, photoshop andlearned everything I wasn’t fully understanding. For years I was against a subscription but 5 bucks a month I can live with. iPad price that is
I’ve wasted money on software that was somewhat advanced for me.
HDR Software - Best HDR Photo Editor for Mac & PC | Aurora HDR 2019
Lightroom and photoshop on the iPad got me over the hump

Do you have a good understanding of exposure and light
Play with sliders get a good feel of what does what

Next colour
Notice the sky when playing with luminance of blue

Green, Yellow, orange I mostly play with the Hue

 

[dannybgoode]

I have started using use Affinity Photo and really like it.

As an example of what I explained about here are 3 versions of the same photo. The first is the drone's jpeg, the second the unprocessed raw file and the third the processed raw file.

The secret of processing a raw file is not to over do it and I may have oversaturated things a little but the sun was low and the boat was glowing. Either way it highlights the different interpretation of the raw date that I made compared to the drone's internal presets.

 

[Meta4]

I thought you would have better control over the camera when in manual mode

Having "better control" is fine but .. If you don't know what you are doing, you can easily make a mess of things in manual when the camera's metering could easily get good results.

I had the camera in auto mode a couple of evenings ago & that’s why it gave me ISO of 1600... & so much noise in the photo. What can I do to achieve a lower iso in auto?

Using some of the camera's auto abilities doesn't mean giving up all control and letting it do everything.
Here's one way of doing things that works well for some people.
Set the camera in A (Aperture Priority) and select the aperture you choose.
Don't leave the ISO in auto, set it to 100 (if in daylight or even moderate low light in still conditions).
That leaves the camera to choose the shutter speed for you.
You can still dial in some exposure compensation if needed and for potentially tricky shots, you can use AEB bracketing to give you a couple of exposure options for the same shot.

 

[Porky]

Set the camera in A (Aperture Priority) and select the aperture you choose.
Don't leave the ISO in auto, set it to 100 (if in daylight or even moderate low light in still conditions).
That leaves the camera to choose the shutter speed for you.
You can still dial in some exposure compensation if needed and for potentially tricky shots

That’s the answer I was looking for, brilliant. I can understand what you are saying here & that makes so much sense, thank you for that. I’ll try your recommendations & see how that improves my dusk photos over this coming weekend.

I’ve played with the camera settings on my mavic while it sits with me in my study, going through all the settings to see what works & to get a better understanding on the procedures. I’ll now try the same thing but in A mode. I’d prefer to do this in the comfort of my home then do it out in the field, (waste so much time) I can take the knowledge from home & put it into practice when flying.

 

[Porky]

I used iMac myself with HDR Software - Best HDR Photo Editor for Mac & PC | Aurora HDR 2019

Then I switched to the iPad Pro with Lightroom cc, photoshop andlearned everything I wasn’t fully understanding. For years I was against a subscription but 5 bucks a month I can live with. iPad price that is
I’ve wasted money on software that was somewhat advanced for me.
HDR Software - Best HDR Photo Editor for Mac & PC | Aurora HDR 2019
Lightroom and photoshop on the iPad got me over the hump

Do you have a good understanding of exposure and lightView attachment 52544

Play with sliders get a good feel of what does what

Next colour
Notice the sky when playing with luminance of blue
View attachment 52545
Green, Yellow, orange I mostly play with the Hue

I used iMac myself with HDR Software - Best HDR Photo Editor for Mac & PC | Aurora HDR 2019

Then I switched to the iPad Pro with Lightroom cc, photoshop andlearned everything I wasn’t fully understanding. For years I was against a subscription but 5 bucks a month I can live with. iPad price that is
I’ve wasted money on software that was somewhat advanced for me.
HDR Software - Best HDR Photo Editor for Mac & PC | Aurora HDR 2019
Lightroom and photoshop on the iPad got me over the hump

Do you have a good understanding of exposure and lightView attachment 52544
Play with sliders get a good feel of what does what

Next colour
Notice the sky when playing with luminance of blue
View attachment 52545
Green, Yellow, orange I mostly play with the Hue

Would be good if I can get a good program for my iPad Pro. I’ve got affinity but that’s on my iMac & I can’t transfer it over to my iPad pro

 

[Porky]

@Slim.slamma

Just downloading lightroom cc & photoshop onto my iPad as we speak.

 

[Slim.slamma]

Would be good if I can get a good program for my iPad Pro. I’ve got affinity but that’s on my iMac & I can’t transfer it over to my iPad pro

Lightroom for the iPad Pro 10.5
Sorry not 5 but 10 bucks a month

I passed on affinity got aurora pretty much the same it was just too advanced for me.

You can definitely transfer files
30 bucks for the iPad sD card reader or air drop from the iMac to your iPad

 

[Slim.slamma]

@Slim.slamma

Just downloading lightroom cc & photoshop onto my iPad as we speak.

Fun times a coming

 

[Porky]

Lightroom for the iPad Pro 10.5
Sorry not 5 but 10 bucks a month

I passed on affinity got aurora pretty much the same it was just too advanced for me.

You can definitely transfer files
30 bucks for the iPad sD card reader or air drop from the iMac to your iPad

I’ll air drop them, that’s what I’ve always done. Stick with what you know

 

[Slim.slamma]

I’ll air drop them, that’s what I’ve always done. Stick with what you know

It’s better to preview them on the iMac first anyways . I’m not in front of my desktop but it’s away to view multiples in pre view

 

[Porky]

Wow.. that’s all I can about lightroom cc. Out of this world. Playing with some photos now

 

[Porky]

Just a quick play with lightroom cc

Before,


And after,