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Goggles and Active Track

ScubaBob

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I have used my MP for many great action videos using Active Track. It is easy to get the subject matter into the focus area of my iPhone and then simply tap the GO so that Active Track starts following the object. But I can't figure out how to get the same functionality with the Goggles. When using Goggles, how do you (1) get the green square to appear around the target object, (2) Press the GO button so the Active Track starts, and (3) set the type of "tracking" (full circle, etc.) for the Active Track? It seems to me that in order to get Active Track to actually work you have to use your phone.

One thing I did realize is that you cannot use the Head Tracking Gimbal feature with Active Track and that makes sense since you can't have both the target object and your head controlling the camera. But when the Goggles are set for your Head Tracking Gimbal then the Active Track option should either be not available (grayed out) or there should be a message AT THAT TIME that you cannot have both features running at the same time. Instead the Goggles let you select Active Track and then tells you when you try to track something that you cannot do so when in Head Tracking Gimbal mode. At that stage you have to get out of Head Tracking Gimbal and then attempt to recapture the moving object so you can Active Track. Usually it has moved on and you have lost the opportunity.
 
Perhaps you set the active feature with the remote then view with the goggles.
You are right. That is what you have to do. But one of the main reasons I bought the Goggles was because the glare on the phone makes it very difficult to see anything--even with an anti-glare skin on my phone and a RC hood. What this present configuration requires is (1) spot what I want to Active Track, (2) flip up the Goggles, (3) put my glasses on, (4) find the object on my phone, (5) start active tracking it on my phone, (5) take my glasses off and then (6) flip the Goggles back down. Try doing that with your target object being a surfer or someone on a Jet Ski or in a boat or even a bicyclist or a child playing in a yard. By the time you flip up your Goggles the target object has moved beyond where it was a few seconds ago. The reason it is called a "track" feature is because the target is MOVING. Bottom line is that a feature that is very valuable (Active Track) seems to be almost impossible to implement with the Goggles unless the target object will sit still while you get set up.
 
Have you checked the full goggles manual available on the DJI server? I am not so good in describing the metohd in English language. But I have sucessfully tried ActiveTrack already with my goggles and it works well, although it doesn't support other ActiveTrack options than just following.
 
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Have you checked the full goggles manual available on the DJI server? I am not so good in describing the metohd in English language. But I have sucessfully tried ActiveTrack already with my goggles and it works well, although it doesn't support other ActiveTrack options than just following.
Thanks for the suggestion. I did read it and you are correct. Helpful. Thanks. I also learned how to zoom with the touchpad--something I had not been able to figure out before.
 
I have used my MP for many great action videos using Active Track. It is easy to get the subject matter into ....oved on and you have lost the opportunity.

I realize this wasn't the intent of your original post, but You mentioned you can't use your phone to do it because of screen glare, even with a hood. Odds are it is because your hood is doing it wrong. Here is a simple way to solve that problem so you could see the screen well enough to active track and then go back to the goggles if you want:

Building a better screen sunshade using physics and reflection (and it's free).

Building a better screen sunshade using physics and reflection (and it's free).
 
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I realize this wasn't the intent of your original post, but You mentioned you can't use your phone to do it because of screen glare, even with a hood. Odds are it is because your hood is doing it wrong. Here is a simple way to solve that problem so you could see the screen well enough to active track and then go back to the goggles if you want:

Building a better screen sunshade using physics and reflection (and it's free).

Building a better screen sunshade using physics and reflection (and it's free).
WOW! thank you very much. Very cool suggestion. I am going to play with that today.
 
TALKED TO DJI AND THEY DID SUGGEST FOR BETTER FOCUS FOR GOOGLES TO: FIX YOUR FOCUS USING TABLET OR HOPEFULLY CS BEFORE TURNING ON GOOGLES !! THE GOOGLES WILL SET ACCORDINGLY.

HOPE THIS HELPS
 
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