Mavic Air Sunset Camera Settings

[pguidara]

I'm new to this page and drone flying. I have had my air for bout 3 weeks now and I'm very happy with the purchase. I live on a mountain and my house is right on the cliff. I get some amazing sunsets and have tried a few times to capture them with the air. they turn out okay but nothing like what see with my eye. I understand it might not get that good. I just wanted to see setting what others have used and got a good shot. Just an FYI I don't have any filters.

 

[AMRE2ME2]

You need an ND4 filter.

 

[AeroMirage]

For good stills, set camera like so:
Sharpness +1
Contrast +2
Saturation +1
EV -0.3 - -1.0
This works for me.
(I don't shoot much video, so no help there)

 

[djiboi]

The mavic air does not have great dynamic range, so you will struggle to get the same as what you see with the eye. Make sure you shootnin raw or use AEB.

 

[PavleAU]

You need filters, shoot in raw and then need to process in a third party software (I use Lightroom).
Start by getting white balance / temperature right, good exposure (use the histogram) and then reducing highlights and boosting shadows to taste. Then you will need to take it from their based on the scene.

 

[djiboi]

Why use filters for stills? You should be able to correctly expose without them.

 

[PavleAU]

Why use filters for stills? You should be able to correctly expose without them.

When shooting a scene like a horizon that has a clear dark and light zone, you would either expose for the dark and the light would be completely blown out, or if you expose for the light, the dark would have no detail remaining.

By using a filter, you expose for the dark and then the filter takes care of the light and prevents it being blown out.

Technically, taking any photo directly towards the sun is a bad idea. If you know how to do this correctly you can make it work, although most of the images you see that really nail this are multiple images blended together, usually taken over a 10-15min period (just before sunset and then through until the sun has gone below the horizon)

No affiliation but here is a link that demonstrates how it works https://nisifilters.com.au/nisi-mobile-phone-filter-system/

Look for the example where you can slide filter on or off in the beach picture.

 

[djiboi]

I can't see how you think that helps unless you have a gradient filter

 

[PavleAU]

I can't see how you think that helps unless you have a gradient filter

Yes a grad is absolutely the best solution, however for a drone, just having an ND filter is very helpful when shooting into the sun.

Basically, it’s easier to salvage an underexposed image than one that is overexposed (Underexposing vs. Overexposing) and an ND filter will reduce the amount of light into the sensor, this will cause you to underexpose*

The OP was asking for help on how to get better results and my advice will achieve this. Is it the only way, no.

*obviously you’re supposed to expose correctly, but as per the link I posted, better to be a little under than over. Another benefit is slower shutter speed.

Have you got any images you’re willing to share without a filter in similiar circumstances?

 

[djiboi]

I'm still not sure I understand, sorry I only have a basic understanding. Adjusting the shutter speed will do the same as a filter, i.e reduce the light coming into the sensor. Filters are just to set the shutter angle to 180 degrees and introduce blur. Unless you want to capture the blur in a still, I don't think they offer anything different.

 

[Lake_Flyer]

I'm still not sure I understand, sorry I only have a basic understanding. Increasing the shutter speed will do the same as a filter, i.e reduce the light coming into the sensor. Filters are just to set the shutter angle to 180 degrees and introduce blur. Unless you want to capture the blur in a still, I don't think they offer anything different.

You're absolutely right here!

 

[PavleAU]

I'm still not sure I understand, sorry I only have a basic understanding. Adjusting the shutter speed will do the same as a filter, i.e reduce the light coming into the sensor. Filters are just to set the shutter angle to 180 degrees and introduce blur. Unless you want to capture the blur in a still, I don't think they offer anything different.

No worries, happy to leave it here.

IMO the best way to reproduce the actual sky colour back to the way you see it in real life is to use a filter. Once the sky is blown out, you can't get it back in post.
Even using a solid ND, you can ensure the sky is exposed correctly and then bring back the foreground in post due to it being underexposed. Here is a visual example (not mine): Before and After ND

I've only just got my filter set for my air and haven't had any time to put them to use yet, however I have taken thousands of images with filters and my camera and my real world results are much closer to what I see vs what a camera sensor produces without filters.

 

[lisadoc]

Yes a grad is absolutely the best solution, however for a drone, just having an ND filter is very helpful when shooting into the sun.
*obviously you’re supposed to expose correctly, but as per the link I posted, better to be a little under than over. Another benefit is slower shutter speed.

ND filters (non-graduated) are only helpful for digital stills in very limited circumstances. The only time one really needs to use a ND filter for stills is if they wish to control aperture (depth-of-field) or shutter speed (motion), while retaining the correct exposure.

Since the Mavic has no variable aperture, that situation can be immediately eliminated. Leaving us only with shutter speed. Using a ND filter is helpful when one wants to increase the shutter speed (exposure time), while retaining the correct exposure. This is helpful for longer exposure times, giving the photo a sense of "motion blur". If that's not the desired effect, then there's absolutely no reason to use a ND filter (unless you use a graduated filter).

At high noon, the Mavic may not be able to compensate for exposure with the lens pointed directly into the sun - but I've personally never tried since it's basically impossible (unless you're holding it in your hand). At sunset (or lower in the sky), the Mavic is fully capable of compensating for the overexposed sun by decreasing the shutter speed and/or the ISO. There's no need to put another piece of glass between the sensor and the subject, that can only introduce glare, dust, imperfections and other problems, particularly when the lens is pointed into the sun.

The suggestion to underexpose vs. overexpose (to then compensate in post production) is a sound one. The suggestion to accomplish this (without the need for a long shutter speed) through the use of a ND filter instead of simply changing shutter speed/ISO is not. This is of course relevant only for stills, not video. But many folks appear to tout the need to use ND filters in still photos without understanding the reasoning behind them. As a Mavic owner, I wouldn't spend too much money and effort dealing with the usage of ND filters, getting caught up in the push to utilize an accessory, as they're only really useful for video during the middle of the day and even then, only in bright sunlight and at close range.

 

[djiboi]

ND filters (non-graduated) are only helpful for digital stills in very limited circumstances. The only time one really needs to use a ND filter for stills is if they wish to control aperture or shutter
speed, while retaining the correct exposure.

Since the Mavic has no variable aperture, that situation can be immediately eliminated. Leaving us only with shutter speed. Using a ND filter is helpful when one wants to increase the shutter speed (exposure time), while retaining the correct exposure. This is helpful for longer exposure times, giving the photo a sense of "motion blur". If that's not the desired effect, then there's absolutely no reason to use a ND filter (unless you use a graduated filter).

At high noon, the Mavic may not be able to compensate for exposure with the lens pointed directly into the sun - but I've personally never tried since it's basically impossible (unless you're holding it in your hand). At sunset (or lower on the horizon), the Mavic is fully capable of compensating for the overexposed sun by decreasing the shutter speed and/or the ISO. There's no need to put another piece of glass between the sensor and the subject, that can only introduce glare, dust, imperfections and other problems, particularly when the lens is pointed into the sun.

The suggestion to underexpose vs. overexpose (to then compensate in post production) is a sound one. The suggestion to accomplish this (without the need for a long shutter speed) through the use of a ND filter instead of simply changing shutter speed/ISO is not. This is of course relevant only for stills, not video. But many folks appear to tout the need to use ND filters in still photos without understanding the reasoning behind them. As a Mavic owner, I wouldn't spend too much money and effort dealing with the usage of ND filters, getting caught up in the push to utilize an accessory, as they're only really useful for video during the middle of the day and even then, only in bright sunlight and at close range.

Thanks for confirming my thoughts

 

[aleadam]

ND filters (non-graduated) are only helpful for digital stills in very limited circumstances.

You are absolutely correct. The only two reasons I can think why would still be somewhat useful to use a filter are 1) if the filter is polarized and you want to eliminate some reflections; and 2) because the air camera is otherwise exposed, a low ND filter can be used to avoid lens scratches in most light conditions. Otherwise, just reducing the exposure time is the most logical option.

To use as much of the limited dynamic range as possible, I set the contrast to -2, although I did not do a thorough test to determine how effective that is. Levels can then be adjusted in post using PS/gimp/etc.

 

[4wd]

The main issue with sunsets is that if you leave it to the camera it will tend to normalise the scene and over-expose, which washes out the colours as a rule.
Either set the EV to -1 or lower or go full manual and do much the same by adjusting the shutter speed.

Filters are largely irrelevant and not needed for stills, but can mess things up easily enough - because forcing a slower shutter for stills is the last thing you want on a moving platform.
Slow shutter in stills can lead to less sharp image and blurring.
ND filters are mostly only of use for video recording.