PolarPro ND filters: 8/16/32 seems like unnecessary granularity?

[dex_]

I've been researching ND filters. The Polar Pro filters seem well regarded, and I hear good things about their support. I don't want a polarizer, so I've been thinking about getting their Cinema Shutter 3-pack (and maybe also the ND 64 separately).

However, it seems like having 8, 16, and 32 NDs is unnecessary. I don't think "traditional" photographers typically own NDs that are so similar. I acknowledge that the fixed aperture limits the flexibility of each ND. But if it's just a 1 stop difference, you could compensate in other ways (using ISO 200, slightly underexposing, using a slightly faster or slower shutter speed).

Especially given that it's hard to change NDs on the Mavic, I kind of wish I could get a 3 pack with a 2-stop gap between the NDs.

Do people find that they mostly use 1 or 2 of their NDs? Or do you actually make use of the fine-grained choices?

 

[namja]

I have a ND 4 pack: 4/8/16/32. Mainly use the 16 because I'm lazy. I should probably test the light each time I fly.

 

[PolarPro]

I've been researching ND filters. The Polar Pro filters seem well regarded, and I hear good things about their support. I don't want a polarizer, so I've been thinking about getting their Cinema Shutter 3-pack (and maybe also the ND 64 separately).

However, it seems like having 8, 16, and 32 NDs is unnecessary. I don't think "traditional" photographers typically own NDs that are so similar. I acknowledge that the fixed aperture limits the flexibility of each ND. But if it's just a 1 stop difference, you could compensate in other ways (using ISO 200, slightly underexposing, using a slightly faster or slower shutter speed).

Especially given that it's hard to change NDs on the Mavic, I kind of wish I could get a 3 pack with a 2-stop gap between the NDs.

Do people find that they mostly use 1 or 2 of their NDs? Or do you actually make use of the fine-grained choices?

Hi dex_,

We'd be happy to provide some insight here. As with most things in media the utility of any given filter will depend on the situation and the desired result, and you're right that there are other ways to adjust the lighting in your shots. We design our filters with a wide variety of uses in mind, up to and including professional video and photo work. While not every filter will come in handy on every shoot, the minute differences can absolutely matter to some users, especially those with professional work in mind.

That being said, we are also aware that people are sometimes in need of a group of filters we don't offer in a set, and we're always happy to set up custom orders for anyone in this situation. If you'd like to do so, please reach out to our customer support team here:

PolarPro Support - Contact Us

We hope this helps!

- Oliver from PolarPro

 

[flightmike]

I have 8, 16 & 32. I use mostly 16. Some sunsets I use 8 and this winter with the snow on the ground I'll probably use the 32 on a bright day. I like mostly how it takes out a lot of glaring and not to mention it protects my camera lens.
My 2 cents.

 

[dex_]

That being said, we are also aware that people are sometimes in need of a group of filters we don't offer in a set, and we're always happy to set up custom orders for anyone in this situation. If you'd like to do so, please reach out to our customer support team here:

PolarPro Support - Contact Us

We hope this helps!

- Oliver from PolarPro

Thanks Oliver! Very cool that you offer custom orders. I actually just ordered the 8/16/32 set yesterday (doh!). I don't regret it though - I expect I'll make use of the full range (the fixed aperture is certainly a big constraint).

FWIW, I'm personally more focused on photography than video, so I'd be interested in much stronger NDs as well for daytime long exposures. Do you all have plans to offer any heavier NDs? I know there's the 6-stop ND64, but I'd really be interested in a 10 stop...

 

[PolarPro]

Do you all have plans to offer any heavier NDs? I know there's the 6-stop ND64, but I'd really be interested in a 10 stop...

I'm not currently aware of any plans to release a 10-stop ND filter for the Mavic, though we appreciate the feedback - I will be sure to pass that along. We're always looking to improve our product lineup and user suggestions are definitely a part of that. If you have any other questions, please let us know.

- Oliver from PolarPro

 

[namja]

10? EEK?

Even if you are pointed directly at the sun under normal operation, that will most likely require a maximum of 1/4000 shutter speed, probably not even that fast. That only needs a 7 stop ND filter to get down to 1/30 (desired shutter speed).

But if you really want a 10 stop, maybe you can hack one by doubling up on filters.

 

[DSI]

I've been researching ND filters. The Polar Pro filters seem well regarded, and I hear good things about their support. I don't want a polarizer, so I've been thinking about getting their Cinema Shutter 3-pack (and maybe also the ND 64 separately).

However, it seems like having 8, 16, and 32 NDs is unnecessary. I don't think "traditional" photographers typically own NDs that are so similar. I acknowledge that the fixed aperture limits the flexibility of each ND. But if it's just a 1 stop difference, you could compensate in other ways (using ISO 200, slightly underexposing, using a slightly faster or slower shutter speed).

Especially given that it's hard to change NDs on the Mavic, I kind of wish I could get a 3 pack with a 2-stop gap between the NDs.

Do people find that they mostly use 1 or 2 of their NDs? Or do you actually make use of the fine-grained choices?

Hi, I have the PolarPro Vivid series which consists the ND 4, 8, 16 and also bought the ND 32/PL. I think they are better than the cinema series. But that's my own opinion. Anyways I have a video of which i shot with using the ND 32/PL. And also there is another video of which I shot using the ND 16/PL as it was partly cloudy. I have no experience with video editing so i didn't do any color grading. This video was shot in 2.7k/30fps in ISO 100, shutter speed 60.

 

[collins]

10? EEK?

Even if you are pointed directly at the sun under normal operation, that will most likely require a maximum of 1/4000 shutter speed, probably not even that fast. That only needs a 7 stop ND filter to get down to 1/30 (desired shutter speed).

But if you really want a 10 stop, maybe you can hack one by doubling up on filters.

The guy is likely trying to do long exposures - say 5 seconds - so as to say smooth out ripples in the water or waves in the sea. He could do this with a 6 stop ND, take 16 shots and 'average stack' them in Photoshop. This would emulate a 10 stop ND filter.

 

[dex_]

The guy is likely trying to do long exposures - say 5 seconds - so as to say smooth out ripples in the water or waves in the sea. He could do this with a 6 stop ND, take 16 shots and 'average stack' them in Photoshop. This would emulate a 10 stop ND filter.

Yes, exactly .

You're right, though: I can experiment with stacking in Photoshop. This also has the advantage that a gust of wind in the middle of my long exposure won't ruin the whole long exposure stack, as long as I have enough stable shots to combine. Thanks for that!

 

[gnirtS]

I've got a 8 and 16.(also comes with a cpl which is worthless for drone use as you can't rotate it).
Most of the time I use the 16 but could really do with a 32 as I'm still about a stop bright. The 8 is used within about an hour of sunset.
I don't put the iso above 100 as I find it unacceptably noisy. Even iso200 hugely degrades image quality.

 

[Mako79]

The guy is likely trying to do long exposures - say 5 seconds - so as to say smooth out ripples in the water or waves in the sea. He could do this with a 6 stop ND, take 16 shots and 'average stack' them in Photoshop. This would emulate a 10 stop ND filter.

You are the only person that reads and understands the op and that he only interested in still long exposure photography. Congrats and very good reply.

 

[PolarPro]

I've got a 8 and 16.(also comes with a cpl which is worthless for drone use as you can't rotate it).
Most of the time I use the 16 but could really do with a 32 as I'm still about a stop bright. The 8 is used within about an hour of sunset.
I don't put the iso above 100 as I find it unacceptably noisy. Even iso200 hugely degrades image quality.

Thanks for purchasing our filters!
The CP can be rotated, usually I just rotate it in front of the camera while looking at the monitor, and then press it on all the way. Another way is to hold it up to your eye, rotate it, and then install it onto the camera in the same direction. Due to the tight tolerances during startup, a rotating polarizer is not feasible.
Let me know if you have any other questions!
-Jeff from PolarPro

 

[gnirtS]

Yes rotation that way however the angle varies depending on the angle of the sun and reflection and tiny changes can mean an adjustment is needed. Which from a drone point of view means it effectively needs to be set somehow to the correct angle on the ground, flown, a photo taken then landed again. A CPL on a ground camera is pretty much essential but not being able to adjust the glare angle is a limitation when you cant do anything about it

 

[PolarPro]

Yes rotation that way however the angle varies depending on the angle of the sun and reflection and tiny changes can mean an adjustment is needed. Which from a drone point of view means it effectively needs to be set somehow to the correct angle on the ground, flown, a photo taken then landed again. A CPL on a ground camera is pretty much essential but not being able to adjust the glare angle is a limitation when you cant do anything about it

Yes, when I am flying for fun/recreationally, I usually just set it once and the results/glare reduction are better than without. When production value needs to be very high, I will line up the polarizer for each shot which means orienting, shooting, landing and repeating. It does take some effort, however when projects need that specific glare reduction/color saturation boost, using a polarizer can be well worth the extra effort.
Happy to answer any other questions.
-Jeff from PolarPro

 

[HALdrone_1]

I've tended to want the ND32 though its getting shipped now - i mostly use the ND16 bc i maintain a 1/50 or 1/100 shutter ALWAYS - after that it gets too jittery - now, given its always sunny in LA but i could use something lighter like the ND8 for overcast.

i do like to keep the camera working below 800ISO and would rather change the ISO to allow more sensitivity instead of changing the shutter. i also tend to use the histogram to give me the ballpark exposure since i do shoot D-Log mainly - i leave all other changes to happen in post where I will have more control

 

[collins]

To be frank, the lack of control we have over shutter speed with the Mavic (due to the fixed aperture) is a real pain. I find jittery footage really off putting and ugly. I actually have a set of 6 ND filters from ND2 to ND64 (I live in Thailand, ao ND64 is often necessary). Still they are of limited use because you dont know your exposure until the Mavic is actually in the sky - so you are always guessing to a degree. My other thoughts....

1. It is a shame that the Polar Pro app doesnt use the smartphones camera to determine the exposure - we currently have to power up the Mavic, check the exposure, power down the Mavic to put on the ND filter and then power it on again.
2. We have some leeway with iso. I personally 'believe' the Mavic's 'base iso' is '200' and not '100' but I dont like to go above 200 in any case
3. The good news is that you can always get rid of the jittery motion in 'post' using 'pixel motion blur' (after effects) or you could buy 'reelsmart motion blur' for Premiere.

 

[PolarPro]

1. It is a shame that the Polar Pro app doesnt use the smartphones camera to determine the exposure - we currently have to power up the Mavic, check the exposure, power down the Mavic to put on the ND filter and then power it on again.

We appreciate the feedback about this! We're always looking for ways to improve our products, and while this particular suggestion would be very difficult to develop due to every single phone model having different camera hardware (which in turn requires different code), I will be sure to pass it along to our development team for consideration. We're always eager to hear what our customers would like to see from us in the future.

- Oliver from PolarPro

 

[collins]

We appreciate the feedback about this! We're always looking for ways to improve our products, and while this particular suggestion would be very difficult to develop due to every single phone model having different camera hardware (which in turn requires different code), I will be sure to pass it along to our development team for consideration. We're always eager to hear what our customers would like to see from us in the future.

- Oliver from PolarPro

Really it isnt that difficult.

ISO = ISO
Light = Light
shutter speed = shutter speed

The only variable is 'aperture' which tends to be different on different smartphones. But even this only usually varies between 1.6 and 2.8 which is about 1 stop. Also you need to know the aperture of the particular DJI model but it isnt exactly rocket sciense.

At present the Polar Pro app's sole purpose is to tell users that say an ND8 filter will divide the shutter speed by - yes you guessed it '8' or an ND16 by '16'. Admittedly the programming to achieve this isnt very complicated but most people are perfectly capable of doing this in their head.

 

[PolarPro]

Really it isnt that difficult.

Apologies, I didn't mean to imply we had rejected the idea due to the difficulty in development, or that it's been rejected at all. My comment was about the code required rather than the conversion of the light values. This is great feedback, and I have passed it along as promised. We do have an update to the app in development at the moment, so keep an eye out for that soon. Thanks for supporting our brand!

- Oliver from PolarPro