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RC Pro Muting Solution—Not For the Faint of Heart!

GadgetGuy

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RC Pro Muting Solution

Between the FCC filing photos and a new teardown video from Alientech, the location of the noisy transducer inside the RC Pro has been accurately determined, and holes drilled in the case to avoid cracking it open, to successfully mute the transducer so it now mews like a kitten, instead of screaming like an alley cat below 15% remaining battery.

The drilling is not without risk, as there are two sets of wires perilously close to the transducer, one set of which is potentially directly above the transducer (the wires that connect the top of the case to the bottom of the case), and the other (the double battery wiring harness) is actually routed directly around it! Drilling lower and to the left is safest to avoid the interior wiring.

I drilled a couple of pilot holes below the location, and found the red and white wires that are above the transducer, moved them aside, and then located the silver top of the transducer by first finding the Philips screw head on its top, which is on the right side of the top of the transducer. I verified the functionality by putting pressure on the silver top of the transducer to muffle the bootup sounds, and then carefully drilled another hole below it, unintentionally lightly touching the insulation on the white wire! Fortunately, no damage! I then used a cut off wooden toothpick through the last hole and poked the sharp end of the toothpick into the exposed silver on top of the transducer with the desired pressure to muffle, but not silence the volume. Covered everything up with gaffers tape to hold it in place, and make it look pretty, and feel comfortable while holding the RC Pro. Mission accomplished!

New Alientech teardown video link, FCC photo, and my photos appear below.

Alientech RC Pro teardown:


FCC photo, with anticipated location depicted in red:

5C8B48D6-2F73-45F1-BFFB-971484DF539D.jpeg
Interior photo from the teardown video link above, with red alignment lines, based upon visible portions of the interior from the outside of the case: the edge of the case, the hole in the case, and the bottom edge of the fan, which can be seen with a really bright light through the air vent screen.

7E9B0516-9654-465C-B854-4E5B8A714217.jpeg

Pilot holes with the actual hole I used is shown in gray, still undrilled, below the red dot depicting the actual location of the silver center of the transducer, as seen through the pilot holes.


ED036C2D-001F-4148-ADEB-A9A2B04CAFD3.jpeg

Finished result, showing the little bump from the toothpick in red, which can be pressed, as desired, to completely silence the transducer. I want to hear it. I just don't want it screaming at me!

EF4F4973-6296-4960-8ABB-8127BAB79799.jpeg
 
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RC Pro Muting Solution

Between the FCC filing photos and a new teardown video from Alientech, the location of the noisy transducer inside the RC Pro has been accurately determined, and holes drilled in the case to avoid cracking it open, to successfully mute the transducer so it now mews like a kitten, instead of screaming like an alley cat below 15% remaining battery.

The drilling is not without risk, as there are two sets of wires perilously close to the transducer, one set of which is potentially directly above the transducer (the wires that connect the top of the case to the bottom of the case), and the other (the double battery wiring harness) is actually routed directly around it! Drilling lower and to the left is safest to avoid the interior wiring.

I drilled a couple of pilot holes below the location, and found the red and white wires that are above the transducer, moved them aside, and then located the silver top of the transducer by first finding the Philips screw head on its top, which is on the right side of the top of the transducer. I verified the functionality by putting pressure on the silver top of the transducer to muffle the bootup sounds, and then carefully drilled another hole below it, unintentionally lightly touching the insulation on the white wire! Fortunately, no damage! I then used a cut off wooden toothpick through the last hole and poked the sharp end of the toothpick into the exposed silver on top of the transducer with the desired pressure to muffle, but not silence the volume. Covered everything up with gaffers tape to hold it in place, and make it look pretty, and feel comfortable while holding the RC Pro. Mission accomplished!

New Alientech teardown video link, FCC photo, and my photos appear below.

Alientech RC Pro teardown:


FCC photo, with anticipated location depicted in red:

View attachment 150197
Interior photo from the teardown video link above, with red alignment lines, based upon visible portions of the interior from the outside of the case: the edge of the case, the hole in the case, and the bottom edge of the fan, which can be seen with a really bright light through the air vent screen.

View attachment 150198

Pilot holes with the actual hole I used is shown in gray, still undrilled, below the red dot depicting the actual location of the silver center of the transducer, as seen through the pilot holes.


View attachment 150199

Finished result, showing the little bump from the toothpick in red, which can be pressed, as desired, to completely silence the transducer. I want to hear it. I just don't want it screaming at me!

View attachment 150200
I would do the Alientech Mod instead to mute as there antenna solution gives you so many options also. No need to use the amp and you now have the option to mount an antenna away from the controller. An upgrade for sure and the way it should be in the first place!
 
a great post by the way! lack of respect but most of us humans act like sheep, a simple fact even if viewed as being rude why not face reality instead of being in so much fear! LOL...
 
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no way would I use the drill hole method though. I would do a Pro Job as it's a Pro controller....
 
Nice tear down video of RC Pro, I doubt I will be brave enough to do that
It's like laptop repair except a little more difficult. You just have to be careful not to pull it apart and rip the wire off the motherboard. So it's best to use a prying tool all the way around instead of pulling it apart by hand. Just like I figured out how to be the best drone pilot on my area... I can figure out how to do this besides the YouTube video shows you how! LOL...
 
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It's like laptop repair except a little more difficult. You just have to be careful not to pull it apart and rip the wire off the motherboard. So it's best to use a prying tool all the way around instead of pulling it apart by hand. Just like I figured out how to be the best drone pilot on my area... I can figure out how to do this besides the YouTube video shows you how! LOL...
True, With the range I am getting on the Mavic 3, I might be tempted to install the AlienTech
 
Nice tear down video of RC Pro, I doubt I will be brave enough to do that
Me either! Can you imagine using a vise to split the two halves like that?

Which is precisely why the hole drilling method is simple and safe, once you know exactly where the transducer is, and can avoid the tiny red and white wires over it that electrically connect the bottom shell with the top shell! By drilling lower and to the left, instead of directly over the silver hole in the top of the transducer, it can be done safely.
 
I would do the Alientech Mod instead to mute as there antenna solution gives you so many options also. No need to use the amp and you now have the option to mount an antenna away from the controller. An upgrade for sure and the way it should be in the first place!
I am completely happy with the stock range on the RC Pro. What I hate is the heart attack beeping from 15% to 10% battery that attracts the attention and annoyance of neighbors at home and anyone else within 1000 feet everywhere else, when I am trying to be discreet! Highly undesirable! Now, after muffling it, without cracking open the case, the only one that can hear that annoying muffled sound is me!

Having also had the 2.4Ghz Alientech Mod professionally installed on my Evo 2 Pro RC, where it was absolutely necessary to get decent range comparable to a stock M2P, it is heavy, and puts a great deal of strain on the controller case where the antenna connectors are mounted. The dual band 2.4 and 5.8 version needed for the Mavic 3 is even larger and much heavier! For me, it would completely defeat the ergonomics and compactness of the RC Pro, and is also unnecessary, as the RC Pro already has a stock FCC range that exceeds the battery capacity! 6+ miles is easily achievable, and it is rated at 9 miles.

Would it be nice to have removable antennas for an external antenna hookup? Yes, but I lack your mad modding skills, and would have to pay someone to do the mod for me, and 90% of the time I would just be using something similar to the stock antennas that already work great, even from inside a car.
 
Yes, Only since 0800 range signal drops 1 bar and then goes to dead signal.
I'm having weird issues as well, but of a different sort, but I can't yet conclusively blame the 0800 update, but there is clearly some buggy code in the update. The Fly app even completely crashed on the RC Pro tonight! Last night, I kept getting RC signal interference errors, and 15 second delays in zoom and gimbal control! I also experienced a new huge, obstructive black modal dialogue box at 15% battery that only offered "Land here" and "Start RTH," where Start RTH could not be selected. Couldn't reproduce those issues tonight, though. Go figure!

One quirk I also discovered: You cannot switch between the 1x optical and the 7x optical cameras in Normal mode without first stopping the video. I had hoped you could jump between them while recording video, without using the Explore Mode, which has to go through 1x-4x and then 7x-28x. I had programmed buttons to make the changes between 1x and 7x and they didn't do anything. They only work when not recording. That led to forgetting to record after I made the changes! 🙄
 
Me either! Can you imagine using a vise to split the two halves like that?

Which is precisely why the hole drilling method is simple and safe, once you know exactly where the transducer is, and can avoid the tiny red and white wires over it that electrically connect the bottom shell with the top shell! By drilling lower and to the left, instead of directly over the silver hole in the top of the transducer, it can be done safely.
I will have to take another look at the video! a Vice! LOL....
 
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True, With the range I am getting on the Mavic 3, I might be tempted to install the AlienTech
The Vise is just to hold it in place to make the job easier. You could lay it on your lap/between legs instead but if that seems too hard when prying, then I would stop right away and go with the vise/c-clamp method. The Key is not to rip the wire away from the board.
 
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The Vise is just to hold it in place to make the job easier. You could lay it on your lap/between legs instead but if that seems too hard when prying, then I would stop right away and go with the vise/c-clamp method. The Key is not to rip the wire away from the board.
Agreed. It works, but is a bit brutal! That wire on the board is the same one that can get in the way while drilling!
 
I'm having weird issues as well, but of a different sort, but I can't yet conclusively blame the 0800 update, but there is clearly some buggy code in the update. The Fly app even completely crashed on the RC Pro tonight! Last night, I kept getting RC signal interference errors, and 15 second delays in zoom and gimbal control! I also experienced a new huge, obstructive black modal dialogue box at 15% battery that only offered "Land here" and "Start RTH," where Start RTH could not be selected. Couldn't reproduce those issues tonight, though. Go figure!

One quirk I also discovered: You cannot switch between the 1x optical and the 7x optical cameras in Normal mode without first stopping the video. I had hoped you could jump between them while recording video, without using the Explore Mode, which has to go through 1x-4x and then 7x-28x. I had programmed buttons to make the changes between 1x and 7x and they didn't do anything. They only work when not recording. That led to forgetting to record after I made the changes! 🙄
I had experienced similar but because I complain so much about this drone I gave that a break. 🤣
 
I had experienced similar but because I complain so much about this drone I gave that a break. 🤣
Can you be more specific about your experience that was similar? Would be great to find out what they have in common so we can report them and get the bugs squashed.
 
Can you be more specific about your experience that was similar? Would be great to find out what they have in common so we can report them and get the bugs squashed.
When I am in video mode and recording I can zoom from 1x to 3x no issues but cannot jump to 7x without stopping the recording which is annoying, I have a laggy/high latency feedback from drone camera to RC Pro screen. I never experienced many app crashes, maybe just once but I did not pay much attention because it went down and restarted again almost immediatly
 
When I am in video mode and recording I can zoom from 1x to 3x no issues but cannot jump to 7x without stopping the recording which is annoying, I have a laggy/high latency feedback from drone camera to RC Pro screen. I never experienced many app crashes, maybe just once but I did not pay much attention because it went down and restarted again almost immediatly
On the Matrice 30, they are able to switch between cameras while recording video, without going through the 2x-4x digital zoom, to jump to an optical telephoto, of any portion of the 1x screen, that can then be digitally zoomed in for further detail, but I believe both their cameras are also recording simultaneously. For us, we now have to continue to use Explore mode to be able to go from 3x to 7x and above. The 7x camera setting alone, without simultaneous access to the 1x for aiming the 7x during recording, is pretty useless. I wanted to be able to switch from optical 1x to optical 7x for best image quality in video recording.

The latency was up to 15-20 seconds on zoom and gimbal control (both scroll wheels), with normal stick control, but I was also experiencing significant RC Controller Interference in a new flight area, so that may have contributed. Back home, completely normal yesterday and today, and no crashes.

The app crash only happened once but it did immediately reload and resume, like yours. Seems like some buffer overrun or memory leak that needed flushing? Some goofy code in this latest update that will need another update to fix.

The big, black, obstructive, non-responsive dialog box at 15% has also thankfully not reappeared in two subsequent flights.
 
Agreed. It works, but is a bit brutal! That wire on the board is the same one that can get in the way while drilling!
I ripped the wire off a RCN1 motherboard myself and it pulled the connector off and can't be soldered back on! LOL.... the second time around I didn't do it by hand and used just the pry tools.
 
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