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2 Pro Still learning Panoramic photography...

MavicFlyer2

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I'm learning more of what our Mavic 2 Pro can do and enjoying it. Graduating out of using Auto camera settings to using the Manual settings has helped the Pano's turn out a little better. Composing the shots are still a little tricky but the more I can get out and do it the better things are turning out. Along with learning the Mavic better it's learning post editing also. I upgraded our Adobe Photoshop to 2021 and it seems to be doing very well with stitching the photo's together.
These shots were of a late afternoon start out of the house and then returning back home slightly after sunset.
 

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Very nice work, however, trim off your sky, you do not need that much wasted blue space on the top unless there is a very good reason for keeping it..
 
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When the sky is uninteresting, compose 2/3 ground, 1/3 sky. Clearly, the ground plane is of greater interest, but your framing cuts it off so you don’t have an option in post on cropping. Be sure to have enough overlap. I typically use 2/3 overlap in framing. The overlap is more important with the other models with wider lenses as the lens distortion makes stitching more challenging and sometimes Photoshop won’t seam them. The closer objects are in the foreground, the more noticeable the lens warping.
I don’t use the automated pano in GO4 as I’m typically doing a 3-image bracket.
 
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I'm learning more of what our Mavic 2 Pro can do and enjoying it. Graduating out of using Auto camera settings to using the Manual settings has helped the Pano's turn out a little better. Composing the shots are still a little tricky but the more I can get out and do it the better things are turning out. Along with learning the Mavic better it's learning post editing also. I upgraded our Adobe Photoshop to 2021 and it seems to be doing very well with stitching the photo's together.
These shots were of a late afternoon start out of the house and then returning back home slightly after sunset.
Nice shots. Great color. I would crop nearly all of the sky out of each photo. the sky was flat and boring when you shot. The land is the focus. Not the sky. Just my opinion.
 
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Why have you decided to stitch in Photoshop instead of the built in stitching of the M2P. What differences are you seeing.
Panoramic's come out cleaner and when I stitch them together in Photoshop I have more control in post for the editing.
 
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Thank you for all the input on these I appreciate it !
 
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Thank you for all the input on these I appreciate it !
I too got into panos this past summer. I shoot in RAW, develop in On1, export TIFF's, and stitch in PTGUI Pro (a lot of options for correcting the curvature). The resulting TIFF file is huge though.
 
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I too got into panos this past summer. I shoot in RAW, develop in On1, export TIFF's, and stitch in PTGUI Pro (a lot of options for correcting the curvature). The resulting TIFF file is huge though.
As like you I shot RAW photos (DNG) and import them into Photoshop like that. Once I've done the post editing I just save the final photo as a JPEG and it still looks good to me. Do you notice any differences in saving your final photo in different formats or is it just in case you want to edit the photo at a later date ?
 
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I save in TIFF and because the file has more information and when viewing, I can zoom in more than in a JPEG for the detail(s)....although perhaps I am not understanding the JPEG format sufficiently that would allow comparable zooming.
 
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I save in TIFF and because the file has more information and when viewing, I can zoom in more than in a JPEG for the detail(s)....although perhaps I am not understanding the JPEG format sufficiently that would allow comparable zooming.
I can Zoom nicely with a JPEG format.
 
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Typically, what size are your panoramic JPEGs?

My Tiffs are in excess of 100MB, so when I zoom in there is a lot of detail that doesn't become pixelated. When I convert a pano TIFF to JPEG, at the highest JPEG quality, I lose the ability to zoom in to the same degree.
 
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My Tiffs are in excess of 100MB
So not too big, then. Mine often end up 1.8 GB for spherical panoramas :)

I second what others have said about composing with more land, less sky. (This might be different with interesting clouds, but plain blue gets boring quickly.)

Have you tried using the panorama mode of the M2P? I usually use it with the camera in manual mode (and then bracket manually for HDR, which is usually necessary in spherical panoramas).

 
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Perhaps my workflow varies from others, but Lightroom Classic is the industry standard for photo editing. Photoshop makes for a cumbersome process and workflow for editing photos as the controls are buried in the menus (instead of all the controls in collapsable boxes in a single panel) and aren't as appropriate for what you need to accomplish. Unlike PS, Lightroom is non-destructive, saving all of edits in an XML file. I've edited tens of thousands of photos in LR and I assure you it's a better, faster workflow. I've used Photoshop for over 20 years, so I know what it's good at and where it fits in a workflow. Some use Adobe Camera RAW, which has essentially the same controls as LR, but you can only do single image processing, which is pointless since PS and LR are bundled together and ACR is essentially a utility plug-in.
While both LR and PS will stitch panos, I typically use a roundtrip method by editing the RAW photos in LR, select all the images in the series, Edit > Merge to Panorama in Photoshop > using Positioning method (other methods seem less reliable). In PS, merge the layers, save the file as PSD and PS will send the composite back to LR where you can crop and export. You can of course save your pano as JPG from PS, but sometimes you want to make adjustments to the composited image in LR and retain the saved full-rez PSD file as it is. Aside from merging panos, PS can be used for filling blank spots in the stitched image, cloning, masking, etc.
Some use 3rd party apps and plug-ins like those in the Nik Collection for filtering, but I typically do filtering after the basic grading, stitching, etc.
 
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So not too big, then. Mine often end up 1.8 GB for spherical panoramas :)

I second what others have said about composing with more land, less sky. (This might be different with interesting clouds, but plain blue gets boring quickly.)

Have you tried using the panorama mode of the M2P? I usually use it with the camera in manual mode (and then bracket manually for HDR, which is usually necessary in spherical panoramas).

I do use the automated pano mode when flying my M2P, saving the shots in the RAW file format,allowing a lot of latitude when editing.

I usually shoot in the 9 pictures option and after editing, crop for aspect ratio and composition.

I just got back from a 6 battery shoot but will leave the editing until winter begins to arrive.
 
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Perhaps my workflow varies from others, but Lightroom Classic is the industry standard for photo editing.
I use On1 Photo RAW which allows non-destructive editing....I can't remember when I moved to it, but I am comfortable with it now.

I used LR in the past but when Adobe moved to their subscription model overall, I moved on. For video, I use Davinci Resolve....bought the Studio version because it came with BM's Speed Editor....absolutely love it.
 
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I use On1 Photo RAW which allows non-destructive editing....I can't remember when I moved to it, but I am comfortable with it now.

I used LR in the past but when Adobe moved to their subscription model overall, I moved on. For video, I use Davinci Resolve....bought the Studio version because it came with BM's Speed Editor....absolutely love it.
I did a 3 photo Panoramic shot on a tripod with our Canon G7X and loaded the RAW files into Photoshop 2021. No editing just had Photoshop auto fill edges and then saved 3 different extensions of that 1 Panoramic.
Outcome was ( TIFF 315 MB - GIF 13.3 MB - JPEG 16.0 MB ) both TIFF and JPEG were fully editable and GIF very limited, and I mean very very limited.
In my eye the TIFF might be slightly sharper then the JPEG but not to noticeable and the JPEG might have slightly more saturation then the TIFF but not to noticeable,
For me the file size is the deciding factor for what I do with our Panoramic photo's. I'll try and do a larger Panoramic and see if the outcome is the same but I'm assuming it will be ?
 
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From the few times I have used the online photo printing services you will want the highest resolution photos. Using a Tiff will most defiantly help. Anytime I have used Jpegs it shows low resolution and is not suggested using even though they looked fantastic on my monitor.
 
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I did a 3 photo Panoramic shot on a tripod with our Canon G7X and loaded the RAW files into Photoshop 2021. No editing just had Photoshop auto fill edges and then saved 3 different extensions of that 1 Panoramic.
Outcome was ( TIFF 315 MB - GIF 13.3 MB - JPEG 16.0 MB ) both TIFF and JPEG were fully editable and GIF very limited, and I mean very very limited.
In my eye the TIFF might be slightly sharper then the JPEG but not to noticeable and the JPEG might have slightly more saturation then the TIFF but not to noticeable,
For me the file size is the deciding factor for what I do with our Panoramic photo's. I'll try and do a larger Panoramic and see if the outcome is the same but I'm assuming it will be ?
Likely the TIFF was 16-bit, which gives you more flexibility for adjustments and things like shadow recovery.

I always work in 16-but TIFF for my panoramas. The files are large, but storage is cheap.
 
From the few times I have used the online photo printing services you will want the highest resolution photos. Using a Tiff will most defiantly help. Anytime I have used Jpegs it shows low resolution and is not suggested using even though they looked fantastic on my monitor.
Thank you !
 
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