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Dale D

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This is a short (1:35 min) video still testing the stability of the Mavic 2 Pro with hyperlapse. I have now been at this for over a month, and I am still not a happy camper.

A series of 5 x 125 exposure sequences ( 625 images) was made as the sun set (hyperlapse mode of Mavic 2 Pro Intelligent Flight Modes, does not allow greater than 125 exposures). All of this time I was being devoured by sand fleas. I shot at an interval of 5 seconds between exposures. These 5 sequences od 125 shots were developed using the saved RAW files and each one was processed in LRTimelapse individually.

The native processing (done by the drone) was totally unacceptable because of the inability to color correct the dark foregrounds, which were black without detail.

These five sequences were edited together in Adobe Premier Pro, and stabilized with Warp Stabilization. A sunrise sequence was added to the front and several hyperlapse sequences from my neighborhood (still in quarantine) and still images were processed in Photoshop were also included, as well as a music track.

In my opinion, the clip is still not great, with marked fluttering and wobbling of the drone shots. Feel free to comment but most of what you are going to say I already know, unfortunately! If anyone has the secret to stable hovering for Mavic 2 Pro hyperlapse mode, I'd really love to know the answer.
 
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It's a bit shaky but man I love the flight under the tree's. That looks like the perfect spot to "shelter in place"
 
I can’t hover and get one.i see it in ones where your moving also. Just throwing a rock here but have you tried putting
on new props . Is a way long shot but I try everything that
i can. Sometimes the least obvious fix’s issues for me.
I tryed one at 20’ the other day and was bad. Seems I get my
best ones around 125’.
 
I can’t hover and get one.i see it in ones where your moving also. Just throwing a rock here but have you tried putting
on new props . Is a way long shot but I try everything that
i can. Sometimes the least obvious fix’s issues for me.
I tryed one at 20’ the other day and was bad. Seems I get my
best ones around 125’.
These are brand new props straight from refurbishment- I got a whole new drone and props.
 
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It's a bit shaky but man I love the flight under the tree's. That looks like the perfect spot to "shelter in place"
Sorry to say, that was not the drone, but just me, with a DSLR doing a hand held hyperlapse sequence of 250 shots. (shoot a shot take a step,shoot a shot, take a step,etc for 250 shots and steps).
 
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Sorry to say, that was not the drone, but just me, with a DSLR doing a hand held hyperlapse sequence of 250 shots. (shoot a shot take a step,shoot a shot, take a step,etc for 250 shots and steps).
I've tried doing this, I even had a monopole, and I didn't like how it came out. Yours is great!. The pro pilots that I know with rock steady footage use a program called Reelsteady. I think it's too expensive, and I don't like the look of too much perfection that it produces.

For stability, it helps to be moving. Start with the drone on the far side of the shot and have it come towards you, that way you can run the battery out safely and get a longer line. You'll see it's more stable in motion, even if you're going dead slow.

I can show you how to fake sunrise effects too if you're interested.
 
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I've tried doing this, I even had a monopole, and I didn't like how it came out. Yours is great!. The pro pilots that I know with rock steady footage use a program called Reelsteady. I think it's too expensive, and I don't like the look of too much perfection that it produces.



For stability, it helps to be moving. Start with the drone on the far side of the shot and have it come towards you, that way you can run the battery out safely and get a longer line. You'll see it's more stable in motion, even if you're going dead slow.

I can show you how to fake sunrise effects too if you're interested.

Dear RTKD.
I am all ears!!! YES Yes Yes! Please show me.

I will try any thing and your idea sound like it would be worth a try.

How far away should I fly towards the setting or rising sun before coming back? Don't forget, I used 5 x 125 shots=625 shots. So do the numbers, at 5 seconds x 625 shots=3125 seconds (52 minutes) of flying time! Not a real solution. The drone would be way far from VLOS. I also brought the drone down for a quick battery change.

I looked in the Reel Steady, and I actually installed it for a trial, but my iMAC froze up. I did this over and over, and had to re-boot, uninstall, reinstall, etc. It just kept freezing. I never got a chance to try it. So I uninstalled it for good and dumped it. Not worth the $99 to me!
 
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Starting with the drone away from you on a programed flight to return helps the battery life problem. Another good trick is to simply use two different shots. People try to bring the rig down to change batteries and then put it back up seamlessly. It's easier to find a different perspective and just have an edit in your video.

Another thing to check out is how sunset / sunrise s dependent on elevation. Even if the sun has just set, you can fly straight up and catch it, then slowly descend and you'll recreate a sunset in real time.

Sunrise is the same; you can go out in the dark, and as your drone raises it looks like the sun is rising
 
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Oh no Dale, sorry but it still doesn't look right at all I'm afraid. Really not sure what you're doing wrong at this stage.

I did like your handheld hyperlapse under the tree lining though, great location!
 
Remember in another thread I told you it seemed I could only get good results doing these moving. Check this one out. Not mine was just posted. If you can’t get this something is wrong with your bird.
 
How disappointing for you Dale.
You deserve better and hope that you are reciprocated for all the good tricks and tips that you share.
Sorry I can't help much....and you are sure that you haven't been on the 'sauce' again!
It does concern me that it doesn't drive you there. LOL
I wish you every success mate, keep trying...from Down Under.
 
This is a short (1:35 min) video still testing the stability of the Mavic 2 Pro with hyperlapse. I have now been at this for over a month, and I am still not a happy camper.

A series of 5 x 125 exposure sequences ( 625 images) was made as the sun set (hyperlapse mode of Mavic 2 Pro Intelligent Flight Modes, does not allow greater than 125 exposures). All of this time I was being devoured by sand fleas. I shot at an interval of 5 seconds between exposures. These 5 sequences od 125 shots were developed using the saved RAW files and each one was processed in LRTimelapse individually.

The native processing (done by the drone) was totally unacceptable because of the inability to color correct the dark foregrounds, which were black without detail.

These five sequences were edited together in Adobe Premier Pro, and stabilized with Warp Stabilization. A sunrise sequence was added to the front and several hyperlapse sequences from my neighborhood (still in quarantine) and still images were processed in Photoshop were also included, as well as a music track.

In my opinion, the clip is still not great, with marked fluttering and wobbling of the drone shots. Feel free to comment but most of what you are going to say I already know, unfortunately! If anyone has the secret to stable hovering for Mavic 2 Pro hyperlapse mode, I'd really love to know the answer.

Hope you don't mind, but I just downloaded your clip and placed it in my editing software, applied ProDAD Mercalli RT (v5 image stabilizer) with still camera setting and, apart from the artifacts that resulted from the download, the image appeared far more stable. You may wish to download a trial of this stabilized to see how well it works on your video. I have used it extensively on "shakey" hand held videos with success.
 
Hope you don't mind, but I just downloaded your clip and placed it in my editing software, applied ProDAD Mercalli RT (v5 image stabilizer) with still camera setting and, apart from the artifacts that resulted from the download, the image appeared far more stable. You may wish to download a trial of this stabilized to see how well it works on your video. I have used it extensively on "shakey" hand held videos with success.
I will give it a try and get back to you
 
Harro:

I will give it a try and get back to you
I just went to the web site and was prepared to download it but then found out it was only for WINDOWS, and I have Mac OS. (iMAC). Bummer!!!

Thanks anyway.

Dale
Miami
 
Great shots!
 
I just went to the web site and was prepared to download it but then found out it was only for WINDOWS, and I have Mac OS. (iMAC). Bummer!!!

Thanks anyway.

Dale
Miami
Specifically to HARRO:

Whoops! On further investigation I found that they do indeed offer a product for MAC! I wrote to them and received an answer this morning with a 20% discount! Downloaded a trial (30 days) and ran my sunsets through it and it does help a lot so I am going to purchase it! Thank you so much for the recommendation. This forum is so great for things like this!!!!!

Dale
Miami
 
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I'm confused when you say the M2P hyperlapse doesn't allow more than 125 exposures ? I must be misunderstanding because I have done waypoint hyper lapses with my MP2 that have had 350 exposures.

Nice shots by the way !
 
I'm confused when you say the M2P hyperlapse doesn't allow more than 125 exposures ? I must be misunderstanding because I have done waypoint hyper lapses with my MP2 that have had 350 exposures.

Nice shots by the way !
Now you have ME confused! With the drone in the air, first I set my photo settings (RAW) (Manual), then, aperture, speed, IOS. I save my shots in RAW to the SD card.

Then, I tap Intelligent Flight Modes Icon>then I tap Hyperlapse>then I get choices of intervals 2 seconds or 5 seconds...I choose 2 seconds>then I tap "go"> the count down begins 1/125, 2/125, 3/125, 4/125, etc., etc., etc. Finally, at 95/125 a lady says"your nearly finished,or similar wordage>then at the 125th exposure it stops taking shots, and starts the preparation or \processing of the drone-generated hyperlapse. If I want more shots, I have to wait for processing to stop, then , I start at the beginning again by hitting nhyperlapse>wtc. like above. Once I get to 125 shots, I have to re-start it. I am able to get 3 or 4 cycles out of my 128GB SD card and one battery. For more shots, I have to quickly bring the drone down, change batteries, and get it back into the air at the same height.
 
Now you have ME confused! With the drone in the air, first I set my photo settings (RAW) (Manual), then, aperture, speed, IOS. I save my shots in RAW to the SD card.

Then, I tap Intelligent Flight Modes Icon>then I tap Hyperlapse>then I get choices of intervals 2 seconds or 5 seconds...I choose 2 seconds>then I tap "go"> the count down begins 1/125, 2/125, 3/125, 4/125, etc., etc., etc. Finally, at 95/125 a lady says"your nearly finished,or similar wordage>then at the 125th exposure it stops taking shots, and starts the preparation or \processing of the drone-generated hyperlapse. If I want more shots, I have to wait for processing to stop, then , I start at the beginning again by hitting nhyperlapse>wtc. like above. Once I get to 125 shots, I have to re-start it. I am able to get 3 or 4 cycles out of my 128GB SD card and one battery. For more shots, I have to quickly bring the drone down, change batteries, and get it back into the air at the same height.
For waypoint hyperlapse, after you set your waypoints, there is a menu choice after (to the right of) the interval that is the length of the completed hyperlapse video. I suppose it depends somewhat on the distance between your waypoints, but if that distance is long enough you can choose a longer length and the drone will travel slower and take more photos between the two points. Does this make sense ? I hope it helps !
 
Under the Hyperlapse intelligence flight modes icon, t is my intention to try waypoints, but so far, all I have NOT had the balls to try anything past "FREE." Free only allows 125 exposures per hyperlapse. I am most happy to try waypoints, but this would not let me film a setting or rising sun.
 
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