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T6 TORX Screws loose under props on the M2Z.

silverdragon

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Once a month I go through all my fliers. I check for damage, cracks, etc. This month I found 2 loose screws. Under the props there are 3 T6 screws per motor. One screw turned about .125 (1/8) turn to tighten the other that was from another motor about 1/2 that. I'm asking if there should be a locktite applied to the screw?
 
They dont have loctite on them but it wouldnt hurt to apply some if you have 1 coming loose. The screws go in to metal. Those 3 screws simply hold on the motor cover, and even with only 1 screw in there, the cover will still hold on. Its good you checked it though. Ive never seen one come loose, even after breaking a prop or a crash.
 
I thank you for the information, I will check the screws one month from now, if the same ones have loosened again I will put a locktite on it. I know they are classified colors I believe. One will almost permabond the screw, the other will lock the screw but not bond it totally.
 
That's what I recall, blue locks it enough so the screw won't back out. Well, as usual I get a refresher course... thanks Thunderdrones....
 
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Good point, for those whom became curious about their screws. Be careful when checking, they can strip easily if you over tighten them...
 
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Nope, picture it in your mind...
 
Way off, the loose screw goes to a motor not a brain.
 
Just watch with the loc tite.... you don't want any on the plastic or touching it because eventually it will fail
 
Just watch with the loc tite.... you don't want any on the plastic or touching it because eventually it will fail
10-4 Mike4884
 
Red usually requires heat or a lot of torque to remove, which isn’t good for this application. Blue is designed to be removable with a regular wrench. Purple is the weakest and is probably ideal since they don’t have loctite from the factory. Green is between blue and red in terms of strength, but is penetrating (i.e. you don’t have to apply it to the threads before inserting a fastener; it’s required for parts with a dry torque specification where loctite needs to be applied after torquing to spec, though of course it can be applied to the threads beforehand in lieu of blue loctite).
 
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Red usually requires heat or a lot of torque to remove, which isn’t good for this application. Blue is designed to be removable with a regular wrench. Purple is the weakest and is probably ideal since they don’t have loctite from the factory. Green is between blue and red in terms of strength, but is penetrating (i.e. you don’t have to apply it to the threads before inserting a fastener; it’s required for parts with a dry torque specification where loctite needs to be applied after torquing to spec, though of course it can be applied to the threads beforehand in lieu of blue loctite).
Wow, a lesson learned, thanks...
 
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Thats a great question. There are a number of different screws and they go into different material.
Exactly, I know from my own experince it's easy to torque it just a bit to much and the pocket book comes out. I have looked around for the specs and never found any info yet. From my previous chats with DJI they were never willing to give up any info. I always get the you cant work on that, send it in and we will do it for you.
 
Exactly, I know from my own experince it's easy to torque it just a bit to much and the pocket book comes out. I have looked around for the specs and never found any info yet. From my previous chats with DJI they were never willing to give up any info. I always get the you cant work on that, send it in and we will do it for you.

What kind of torque gauge would you use? Ive never seen one small enough to use on these screws.

I like this one, but havent got enough in the piggy bank:

DID-4A Cedar Digital Torque Screwdriver with Memory & USB Data Output with ISO-17025 Calibration Cert, 35 lb-in Capacity, 0.20~35.00 lbf-in Measuring Range: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
 
Lycus Tech Mavic Air 3 Case

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