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Videos too bright

Lowell Crabb

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I was out flying yesterday and all the video was washed out with too much light. I didn't think there was much more light than at other times. It was between 4 and 5 pm and even the video taken while flying away from the sun was over exposed. My Chrystal Sky monitor was not showing the over exposure either. What am I doing wrong? Thanks
 
I struggled with this issue for months. Over exposed videos cannot be corrected. So here's my approach.
The objective is to let the camera make a proposed exposure level. Then lock it in so it does not change during the shoot.

Turn on the Histogram
For video, set the exposure to Automatic. This is to let the camera do the work.
Point in the direction of your shoot and set your gimbal angle
Set focus to automatic and touch that part of the scene that is most important in your shot.
Let it focus.
Set focus to manual to lock it.
Select the exposure indicator (switch green square to yellow circle)
Set the Ev level to 0.0 using the wheel.
Touch the part of the screen where you want a balanced exposure
Let the camera set the correct shutter speed to adjust the exposure.
Check the histogram to verify things looked balanced. Don't worry about what the screen looks like.
If you want to ramp up the exposure or decrease it, use the EV wheel +/- a click.
Once you're happy with the histogram, lock the exposure by touching the AE lock icon (or if you are so inclined, you can set the 5 function button to lock and unlock the exposure). This will stay locked until the end of the video clip.
Shoot your video.

Seems like a lot of work, but you get used to it. Works for me.

If the shutter speed doesn't follow the 180 rule for shutter speed and frame rate, and that is important to you, do what @Moose1967 says. You need a filter. That will slow down the shutter speed. It's like putting sunglasses on your camera.
 
I struggled with this issue for months. Over exposed videos cannot be corrected. So here's my approach.
The objective is to let the camera make a proposed exposure level. Then lock it in so it does not change during the shoot.

Turn on the Histogram
For video, set the exposure to Automatic. This is to let the camera do the work.
Point in the direction of your shoot and set your gimbal angle
Set focus to automatic and touch that part of the scene that is most important in your shot.
Let it focus.
Set focus to manual to lock it.
Select the exposure indicator (switch green square to yellow circle)
Set the Ev level to 0.0 using the wheel.
Touch the part of the screen where you want a balanced exposure
Let the camera set the correct shutter speed to adjust the exposure.
Check the histogram to verify things looked balanced. Don't worry about what the screen looks like.
If you want to ramp up the exposure or decrease it, use the EV wheel +/- a click.
Once you're happy with the histogram, lock the exposure by touching the AE lock icon (or if you are so inclined, you can set the 5 function button to lock and unlock the exposure). This will stay locked until the end of the video clip.
Shoot your video.

Seems like a lot of work, but you get used to it. Works for me.

If the shutter speed doesn't follow the 180 rule for shutter speed and frame rate, and that is important to you, do what @Moose1967 says. You need a filter. That will slow down the shutter speed. It's like putting sunglasses on your camera.
Do you know from your monitor how bright you video is going to turn out? My monitor would show washed out for a short time and then it would adjust to normal. I would think the video should turn out (nearly) like the screen. Thanks for the reply.
 
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Do you know from your monitor how bright you video is going to turn out? My monitor would show washed out for a short time and then it would adjust to normal. I would think the video should turn out (nearly) like the screen. Thanks for the reply.
That was my old way of doing things. I'd look at my iPad mini screen and determine if the exposure "looked" Ok. How bright is it? Then when I viewed the video later, some turned out awful! Not only that, I started to exclusively use Dlog as my color profile. On the screen, Dlog looks even worse, all washed out and all. You can't tell anything. So I rely on what the camera does and tells me via the histogram and my procedure.

Just remember, there will be many times when you cannot have all parts of the scene equally exposed. This is especially true with a bright sky and the ground in a "black box" situation. In such a case, you have to decide which part of the scene you want properly exposed... sky or ground. This situation cannot be fixed with filters. You just have to live with it. In other situations where the sun is behind you, it is possible to have a good balanced exposure for most all of the scene, sky and ground. In that case, we luck out!
 
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You need to get a set of ND Filters (8,16,32,64) and learn with experience how to use them.
Exposure correction is a gross misuse of ND filters. Drone ND filters were never intended to control total exposure. They are only intended to gain control over the shutter speed while shooting video, to keep the reciprocal of the shutter speed at twice the frame rate for a cinematic look, especially when the aperture is fixed in daylight where you are already at the lowest ISO, trying to get to 1/50 or 1/120th of a second.
 
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I struggled with this issue for months. Over exposed videos cannot be corrected. So here's my approach.
The objective is to let the camera make a proposed exposure level. Then lock it in so it does not change during the shoot.

Turn on the Histogram
For video, set the exposure to Automatic. This is to let the camera do the work.
Point in the direction of your shoot and set your gimbal angle
Set focus to automatic and touch that part of the scene that is most important in your shot.
Let it focus.
Set focus to manual to lock it.
Select the exposure indicator (switch green square to yellow circle)
Set the Ev level to 0.0 using the wheel.
Touch the part of the screen where you want a balanced exposure
Let the camera set the correct shutter speed to adjust the exposure.
Check the histogram to verify things looked balanced. Don't worry about what the screen looks like.
If you want to ramp up the exposure or decrease it, use the EV wheel +/- a click.
Once you're happy with the histogram, lock the exposure by touching the AE lock icon (or if you are so inclined, you can set the 5 function button to lock and unlock the exposure). This will stay locked until the end of the video clip.
Shoot your video.

Seems like a lot of work, but you get used to it. Works for me.

If the shutter speed doesn't follow the 180 rule for shutter speed and frame rate, and that is important to you, do what @Moose1967 says. You need a filter. That will slow down the shutter speed. It's like putting sunglasses on your camera.
Great tutorial, but I'm a bit confused because you mention using Dlog which I initially thought meant you had the M2P, as I do. However, instead, I now believe it is because you have a Mavic Pro Platinum, rather than the Mavic 2. On the Mavic 2, there is unfortunately no longer any video option to select spot metering of the exposure on any chosen part of the screen that you touch, like there is when shooting stills, and like all prior DJI aircraft have, including the P4P. Whether this is intentional by DJI or an oversight that crept in while creating different versions for the M2 Zoom and the M2 Pro versions, I don't know, but the spot metering setting of video exposure is sorely missed on the M2! It used to be a great way to protect your whites from overexposure by initially using them as the reference point, by touching them on the screen.
 
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That is a gross misuse of ND filters. Drone ND filters were never intended to control exposure. They are only intended to control shutter speed while shooting video, to keep the reciprocal of the shutter speed at twice the frame rate for a cinematic look.

Correct. Most people on here have no idea what an ND actually does!
 
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Correct. Most people on here have no idea what an ND actually does!
I suspect that when Mark Cuban invested in PolarPro on Shark Tank, the confusion was deliberately promulgated that every drone owner needed ND filters! Most don't have a clue what they are for, but they know they "need" them because they saw it on Shark Tank! LOL! :rolleyes:

Far more useful is a gradient ND filter to lower the dynamic range of the scene by darkening the sky.
 
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That is a gross misuse of ND filters. Drone ND filters were never intended to control exposure. They are only intended to control shutter speed while shooting video, to keep the reciprocal of the shutter speed at twice the frame rate for a cinematic look.
Wrong.
Why do you think professional cameras have built in variable ND filters.
It has absolutely nothing to do with controlling shutter speed which can be locked (in fact shutter angle can be set and locked) - it is ALL to do with controlling exposure (which is why ND filters were invented) to bring the aperture into the ‘sweet spot’ of the prime to prevent diffraction at higher T stops or control depth of field by allowing the camera operator to open the aperture in bright conditions to give a bokeh.

In a fixed aperture lens like on many DJI offerings the ND filter is being utilized to control the exposure by changing the shutter speed. It can be utilized in this way to give Frame rate to shutter speed multiple to mimic a 180 degree shutter but it is being achieved by altering the exposure.

You are correct though, most do not understand what an ND filter is used for, yourself and a couple of others on here included.

I hate bad ‘advice’ or so called facts being quoted when they are completely erroneous and will call them out when I see them.
 
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Why do you think professional cameras have built in variable ND filters.
For the mentioned reason, becasue keeping the lens at the right aperture could also be done by increasing shutter speed, but you don't want that so you add an ND instead. But the camera is able to get the proper exposure without them.

To the OP, you likely had dialed in some positive exposure compensation inadvertently.
 
For the mentioned reason, becasue keeping the lens at the right aperture could also be done by increasing shutter speed, but you don't want that so you add an ND instead. But the camera is able to get the proper exposure without them.

To the OP, you likely had dialed in some positive exposure compensation inadvertently.
Yes it can get the correct exposure but not if you want a shallow DOF and have a fixed shutter speed/angle.
That can only be achieved by adding an ND (leaving aside theoretical ISO adjustments)
 
Wrong.
Why do you think professional cameras have built in variable ND filters.
It has absolutely nothing to do with controlling shutter speed which can be locked (in fact shutter angle can be set and locked) - it is ALL to do with controlling exposure (which is why ND filters were invented) to bring the aperture into the ‘sweet spot’ of the prime to prevent diffraction at higher T stops or control depth of field by allowing the camera operator to open the aperture in bright conditions to give a bokeh.

In a fixed aperture lens like on many DJI offerings the ND filter is being utilized to control the exposure by changing the shutter speed. It can be utilized in this way to give Frame rate to shutter speed multiple to mimic a 180 degree shutter but it is being achieved by altering the exposure.

You are correct though, most do not understand what an ND filter is used for, yourself and a couple of others on here included.

I hate bad ‘advice’ or so called facts being quoted when they are completely erroneous and will call them out when I see them.
Good point. I should have stated that they were not intended to be used for exposure compensation on a drone. My bad! Clearly, they are being used for control over the components of exposure. Original post has just been edited with this correction for clarity. The main point, however remains the same: correcting overexposure with use of ND filters is a misuse of the ND filter on a drone. We agree on everything else, except your assumption that I don't know what I am talking about! ;)
 
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Did anyone else read where the video in crystal sky was not over exposed??

Every DJI I drone have used from Spark to P4 Pro is always showing exposure simulation in the Live View from the drone camera. So If my view on SC, CS, or iPad is showing correct exposure ie not blown out that is what I get. I have never had a miss match such as described by OP.

What you see is what you get. If your video is not blown out on the Live View from the drone it should not be blown
out on the card.

Paul C
 
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My point, is you have 3 exposure options. If you are in Auto, the drone camera will pick what it feels is correct, for sure it should not be overexposed. If you are in other modes, like Manual, if you have selected a something that is overexposed/underexposed the screen shows it, until you adjust, shutter speed, aperture or both, or ISO.

With my M2 Pro in D log it's no different so not sure what is going on with OP's screen on Crystalsky.

Paul C
 
Great tutorial, but I'm a bit confused because you mention using Dlog which I initially thought meant you had the M2P, as I do. However, instead, I now believe it is because you have a Mavic Pro Platinum, rather than the Mavic 2. On the Mavic 2, there is unfortunately no longer any video option to select spot metering of the exposure on any chosen part of the screen that you touch, like there is when shooting stills, and like all prior DJI aircraft have, including the P4P. Whether this is intentional by DJI or an oversight that crept in while creating different versions for the M2 Zoom and the M2 Pro versions, I don't know, but the spot metering setting of video exposure is sorely missed on the M2! It used to be a great way to protect your whites from overexposure by initially using them as the reference point, by touching them on the screen.

Oops. Sorry about my mistake. At least I’ll learn something about the 2 Pro.
 
I've been enjoying my MA for 7 months shooting lots in Kaui all winter and now back home. Read and re-read much on ND filters and watched too many videos. I know using the ND filters specifically to slow the shutter speed down can be used to create the blur some would desire in their action shots or when movement is being videod such as waterfalls. I bought a set of 8,16 and 32 and did use them consistently. I lost my drone and one of the filters. In replacing the ND filter set, the CPL filter was included. I use it all the time and fine my shots are vivid and not overexposed. CPL: give you total "on location" control of color saturation, make skies bluer, grass greener-even eliminate surface reflections from glass and water - all with picture perfect results. Still learning....
 
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