I was shooting a panorama the other day using my Mavic 2 Pro and a Freewell Variable ND filter (5-9) set at or around 6-7, on manual. What is that dark smudge on the image and the banding?
Thank you Tome for answering:Looks a bit like it’s due to individual image overlap w/in the pano.
The exposure was fixed. I did not change the exposure during the shot.A couple of suggestions from the limited information you have shared.....
1. Vari ND filters are two PL filters sandwiched. In theory 90 deg misalignment of the elements should provide max attenuation. Is it possible that the effect varies slightly with camera rotation during the pano? This would be most pronounced if the exposure setting remained fixed during the acquisition of the images used for stitching.
2. if you shot the images manually was the exposure fixed?
3. I can see no reason how using an ND of any value may be of a benefit in this sort of imaging, probably best to live it off.
The effect is almost certainly a variation in EV between the acquired images.
The better way to reduce the image brightness would have been to manually set, or allow the camera to determine, a higher shutter speed.The exposure was fixed. I did not change the exposure during the shot.
I used the ND filters in this case, not for motion blur, but because of the brightness of the image without the filter. Let me try this again when the light is less without the filter to see if I can eliminate the artifact.
If you are shooting stills with your drone, the only reason to use ND filters is to force a longer shutter speed.I used the ND filters in this case, not for motion blur, but because of the brightness of the image without the filter. Let me try this again when the light is less without the filter to see if I can eliminate the artifact.
I guess my problem is that when I put the drone in the air I want to take advantage of both the video and single still capabilities of the camera on the same flight. So I will fly the bird out a certain distance on video using the ND filter for motion blur, and then, snap a few stills. On the insurance of this image with the dark shadow, I decided that while I was in the air, I would also shoot a panorama. I didn't want to land and take off the filter and then put the drone up in the air again for the pan shot. Doesn't everyone shoot bot video and stills on the same flight????If you are shooting stills with your drone, the only reason to use ND filters is to force a longer shutter speed.
The camera's shutter speed goes up to 1/8000th which will cope with more brightness than you'll ever encounter.
Fair enough- your not alone here. I do the same, expect most do. I use fixed ND filter though, can't see the advantage of variable as a benefit when you factor in cost, weight penalty and the fact you have a lot more elements in front of the lens to degrade the image.I guess my problem is that when I put the drone in the air I want to take advantage of both the video and single still capabilities of the camera on the same flight. So I will fly the bird out a certain distance on video using the ND filter for motion blur, and then, snap a few stills. On the insurance of this image with the dark shadow, I decided that while I was in the air, I would also shoot a panorama. I didn't want to land and take off the filter and then put the drone up in the air again for the pan shot. Doesn't everyone shoot bot video and stills on the same flight????
So let me get this straight. Did I make a mistake in ordering variable ND filters? With my old Mavic Air I used dedicated ND filters ( e.g.: 4ND, 8ND, 16ND, 32ND). Never had this problem. Maybe I should just get a16ND and 32 ND.????Help anyone.Fair enough- your not alone here. I do the same, expect most do. I use fixed ND filter though, can't see the advantage of variable as a benefit when you factor in cost, weight penalty and the fact you have a lot more elements in front of the lens to degrade the image.
I added the clarification as you had specifically suggested your intent with the filter was "because of the brightness of the image without the filter". That, as you seemingly now claim to appreciate, is not a valid reason for its use.
It depends. There are two principal issues of relevance.So let me get this straight. Did I make a mistake in ordering variable ND filters? With my old Mavic Air I used dedicated ND filters ( e.g.: 4ND, 8ND, 16ND, 32ND). Never had this problem. Maybe I should just get a16ND and 32 ND.????Help anyone.
It's a question between quality & easy handling ... all thing's in front of the sensor degrades the quality somewhat.So let me get this straight. Did I make a mistake in ordering variable ND filters? With my old Mavic Air I used dedicated ND filters ( e.g.: 4ND, 8ND, 16ND, 32ND). Never had this problem. Maybe I should just get a16ND and 32 ND.????Help anyone.
They are.This effect (changing saturation of blue in the sky) looks to me to be similar to the effect I get when making Panos using an SLR and a circular polarizer lens filter. Are you sure that the ND filter you are using are not polarized?
You might be confusing ND with ND grad- your comments have some applicability to the later with little or no relevance to ND which the subject of this discussion.I had a similar but even worse issue trying a 360 degree panorama with a variable ND filter. WHAT A MESS IT MADE! It took me a few minutes to understand what happened but I'm convinced that panos with ND filters that include vertical movement and will never blend frames well. But don't get me wrong.. Variable filters work great on individual shots where the sky is bright and the ground is in shade, and other similar contrasts.