Anybody got any ideas?
Flashes, Temp Shifts... Why?
It's all shot Manual, ISO 100, locked shutter speed.
What's going on with my footage...
- Thread starter itsneedtokno
- Start date
Anybody got any ideas?
Flashes, Temp Shifts... Why?
It's all shot Manual, ISO 100, locked shutter speed.
brett8883
Well-Known Member
You need to use manual white balance. What you are seeing is auto white balance trying to compensate for the changing color of the sunset
flashes appear to be flicker. Not sure why as you are in manual mode with aperture and shutter speed fixed.
I have seen this from many hyperlapses from the MP2. Especially in low light or scenes transitioning to low light.
Color shift is from white balance changing I would assume from the light changing. I don’t believe you can set a fixed Kelvin value for WB with the drone at least I have never looked for it. You can pick the standard i.e. Daylight cloudy etc but at least it will be locked in.
You might consider taking the hyperlapse in raw and jpg that way you can work it up manually. However much much more work involved.
Paul C
I have seen this from many hyperlapses from the MP2. Especially in low light or scenes transitioning to low light.
Color shift is from white balance changing I would assume from the light changing. I don’t believe you can set a fixed Kelvin value for WB with the drone at least I have never looked for it. You can pick the standard i.e. Daylight cloudy etc but at least it will be locked in.
You might consider taking the hyperlapse in raw and jpg that way you can work it up manually. However much much more work involved.
Paul C
I definitely do take everything in raw. That's upsetting though, I wish it would just lock in a temp when I start shooting. Everything else is locked...
I have LR so I've got some work ahead of me I suppose. I've got a decent work flow figured out, but it still won't be easy.
I've also never seen a manual Kelvin setting.
Where is the setting for white balance on DJI FLY?
Here’s my experience...
The flashes are due to incomplete exposures for individual frames. Not sure why it happens. I have done many time lapse videos, and every once and a while a bad jpg will show up out of a several hundred shots. I’m using an MPP and I post process using FCPX. Before combining jpg’s into a clip, I quickly do a visual scan for bad shots and erase them. For other drones, I dunno. Maybe for you automated pilots take a look at your SD card?
brett8883
Well-Known Member
My man I have to introduce you to DaVinci Resolve where you can make videos from DNG sequences and get RAW controls for the videos during the video editing process. It’s life changing for time lapse photographers and would solve our friend’s white balance issue due to the ability to set white balance in post with the power of RAW. It’s free.
This was the final straw for me to switch to Resolve from FCPX which doesn’t support DNG sequences and I’ve never looked back. It’s a little painful at first to teach an old dog new tricks but once you do you will wonder what the heck you’ve been doing all this time.
Did I mention it’s free? Trust me on this.
I'm working the footage through LightRoom now, didn't know about the manual K settings, super excited for new stuff.
I'll post the new stuff when it's done.
brett8883
Well-Known Member
Lightroom isn’t a proper program to edit videos and I believe you can at max export 1080p time-lapses and all edits are global. Shoot in RAW and use DaVinci Resolve to edit your video.
All you do is put all the DNGs from the time lapse in a folder and then use the import dialogue in Resolve to go to that folder and Resolve will automatically recognize that the photos in that folder is actually a video and create at 12 bit video for you automatically.
You can do the same thing with jpegs but if you do you only get 8 bits to work with and if you do it in RAW you’ll get an extra menu of options in the color tab called “RAW.”
The RAW menu will allow to edit in 12 bit color and give you plus or minus 3 stops of exposure latitude. You can make true HDR video with that kind of power. If you’ve ever heard of CinemaDNG that is exactly what this is. I’m telling you guys it’s amazing.
In LightRoom Classic I use the .DNG files and edit the first image of the Hyperlapse set, then copy those settings to the whole set, adjust as necessary...
Then I export to a folder, import in to Premier Pro as an image sequence, do any final touches with key-framing if necessary, add audio, sync it all up, then export.
It might be more work, and not free, but it's what I'm used to.
LightRoom is more user friendly also, again, IMHO. Maybe not LR Classic, but definitely LrCC. (Note: as far as I know, Timelapses can only be edited in the classic version, not the CC version)
brett8883
Well-Known Member
Please listen to what I am saying to you because it will save you so much time and allow you to make SO much better time-lapses. You are doing this all wrong.
The RAW panel in Resolve is the same controls you get in Lightroom some things are just called slightly different things.
If you really want to stay in the Adobe CC world then don’t import into Lightroom. Just keep them as RAW and use the import dialogue in After Effects. Click on the first photo in the folder and be sure to click “import as image sequence” in the import options.
This will bring up the first photo into camera RAW just like how you want it how it is in Lightroom Classic and you get all of the controls you are use to in Lightroom to edit the photo. When you are done editing click done on the camera raw dialogue and it will open your video in After Effects with the RAW settings you set for that first photo but applied to all the photos and create a video for you using the RAW automatically. You’ll keep all the RAW information in that video though so if you need to key in adjustments then you can do that with the regular luminatry color panel. You can then export with Media Encoder or open in PP via dynamic link.
By using LR to render the video you are limiting yourself to 1080p, a lower quality render, losing 4 bits of information and you basically are rendering twice one in LR and once in PP.
I still think DaVinci is better but this is how’s you’d do the same idea in Adobe world.
brett8883
Well-Known Member
Also by using Lightroom you can’t make keyframe adjustments using RAW controls. Once you convert those DNGs to jpeg you’ve lost that ability to go back and change the RAW data. With my way you retain your ability to make adjustments using the power of RAW throughout the editing process. That’s the major benefit to this method.
@brett8883
I have been baffled as to why my Hyperlapses look like "sheet" compared to 99% of everyone else's. This explains EVERYTHING.
Thanks man.
I've already done all the work in LR for today's stuff so will be exporting that tonight hopefully.
I'll run the same stuff the exact way you told me to through Adobe and post the results tomorrow.
Thanks again!
Edit: warp stabilizer in AE or PP?
I have been baffled as to why my Hyperlapses look like "sheet" compared to 99% of everyone else's. This explains EVERYTHING.
Thanks man.
I've already done all the work in LR for today's stuff so will be exporting that tonight hopefully.
I'll run the same stuff the exact way you told me to through Adobe and post the results tomorrow.
Thanks again!
Edit: warp stabilizer in AE or PP?
brett8883
Well-Known Member
No problem happy to help. Warp stabilizer should be the same in AE as PP so whatever floats your boat.
brett8883
Well-Known Member
If you are having those white balance color shifts though this will fix it because white balance is just metadata in the raw data, it can be changed by using the power of RAW in post just like as if you set wb manually in camera so this is a sure fire way to fix that issue. The flickering too. LR struggles to reliably sync and export hundreds or thousands of photos at once because it wasn’t really designed to be used that intensely. Your flicker I virtually guarantee is LR choking on doing all that all at once.
You can lock in a temp however you have to change the setting for each mode. So just because you set color temp in 1 photo mode it has to be set in the others as well.
but if you are doing the raw processing just import the images into camera raw or Lightroom and batch process and change all the images to the same white balance and other tweaks at once
but if you are doing the raw processing just import the images into camera raw or Lightroom and batch process and change all the images to the same white balance and other tweaks at once
What’s a DNG sequence? Where is it at? What resolutions is it? How is stabilizing accomplished?
DNG files are the same thing as RAW.
In the app, and on most cameras you will see a section for shooting "RAW" which uses a file extension called .DNG
.DNG files store loads more information, and allow for much more post processing.
A DNG sequence is a set of photos taken (usually in Hyperlapse mode) that have filenames that usually start like "storm-1" and end with "storm-999" (999 is for example only).
The resolution of your DNG or JPEG depends on the camera. For the MA2 it's 12MP, or 48MP using the quad-bayer array. (glorified way of saying 12x4MP)
Stabilizing a Hyperlapse can be done many ways, but I use Adobe PP and there is an effect called "warp stabilizer". Drag that to your clip and it's usually good to go!
brett8883
Well-Known Member
A dng sequence is a video made up of DNG (RAW photos) instead of jpegs like you’ve been doing.
Usually DNG would require special software like Lightroom to edit but DaVinci Resolve can edit the videos made from RAW photos just like Lightroom does it for photos.
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