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Wide Angle Lens Mode Issue - Wrongly Selected?

danwnz

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I purchased a PGYTech VND 6-9 stop filter from DJI, when I attached this filter the drone somehow says that the wide angle lens is attached, which then meant I could not do a panroama that I was wanting to do requiring 6 stops.

Can this be over ridden or disabled? Did I do something wrong, I tried twice removing and adding the filter with the same result.
I do not believe I would ever buy the wide angle lens over just taking multi shots and stitching, so would prefer to disable this.


---Gimble calibration also didn't fix the issue.

***Issue now resolved, replacing the filter same brand and model and no issue, don't ask why it just did, no one can figure it out it does really make sense, and I am sure they wouldn't have believed me if they handn't seen it themselves.
 
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Last I read, the community didn't know what was triggering this - whether it was magnets in the filter or just weight, but it's a bit annoying. What kind of pano were you shooting that you needed 6 stops of ND in photos? Stopping down to f/8, dropping the ISO to minimum, and boosting the shutter should get you plenty of EV for almost any subject.
 
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So an update, took the drone and the filter into DJI store, tried a different filter same manufacturer, did not trigger the issue, then tried same brand and filter model but brand new one and no issue with it triggering anymore.
So the answer in this case was a different filter, we were all as puzzled as each other why or how this could be
 
Last I read, the community didn't know what was triggering this - whether it was magnets in the filter or just weight, but it's a bit annoying. What kind of pano were you shooting that you needed 6 stops of ND in photos? Stopping down to f/8, dropping the ISO to minimum, and boosting the shutter should get you plenty of EV for almost any subject.
Yeah almost always run ISO at 100 try not to ever change that, and also stop down to f8 max as recommended for low diffraction
 
I have had many filters trigger wide-angle lens detection. It's hit or miss, first a cheap ND, then several K&F Concept. Sometimes re-attaching will fix it, sometimes not. I suspected the camera on my Mavic 3 had an issue, but a replacement under warranty (for another issue) does the same thing.

I would love to know what the trigger mechanism is. There are no magnets on filters or lenses. The pogo pins just contact plates (un magnetized) -they are not of different thickness, and are physically the same. The weight is irrelevant, a super light ND can trigger it. A heavy Anamorphic may not.

Anyone know the actual detection method?
 
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The guy did not know at DJI, interstingly enough the DJI filters have what looks like two contacts on the filter that align with silver pins on the camera. There has been claims these are magnetic sensors supposedly for this wide angle lens detection, but it seems the majority of people say this is unfounded.
The two different filters that we tried from PGYTech did not have any contact points for the pins, which was also interesting then why one would trigger it and another not.
I have attached and removed my old filter many times, and so did DJI with our testing, and every time this filter triggered the wide angle, the new filter we tried numerous times and it has not triggered the wide angle mode, touch wood.
 
Might also just be a function of gimbal load and motor capacity - I know balancing a gimbal stabilizer can be tricky if the payload is right on the edge of the gimbal’s capacity, so maybe the M3’s camera is in the same situation.
 
That was the first thing DJI did, calibrate gimbal with no change. Not sure DJI would sell these if they were borderline on the capacity of what the gimbal can handle, we my one, can't comment on others
 
Last I read, the community didn't know what was triggering this - whether it was magnets in the filter or just weight, but it's a bit annoying. What kind of pano were you shooting that you needed 6 stops of ND in photos? Stopping down to f/8, dropping the ISO to minimum, and boosting the shutter should get you plenty of EV for almost any subject.
Just because the lens stops down to 11 doesn’t mean you should do it- if you don’t have to. Sharpness will suffer from diffraction. This lens is sharpest around f4.0-4.5
 
Just because the lens stops down to 11 doesn’t mean you should do it- if you don’t have to. Sharpness will suffer from diffraction. This lens is sharpest around f4.0-4.5
In testing my copy the difference was so minor between wide open through f/8 that I could only tell with EXIF. Particularly for a panorama, minor losses of sharpness to diffraction are going to be unnoticeable.

I'm still curious to know what subject required more of a reduction in light than 1/8000th, f/8, ISO 100 could provide - that's 19EV. If it's a case of wanting to blur water via long exposure, exposure blending is probably a better call anyway, as it will yield fewer artifacts when stitching.
 
In testing my copy the difference was so minor between wide open through f/8 that I could only tell with EXIF. Particularly for a panorama, minor losses of sharpness to diffraction are going to be unnoticeable.

I'm still curious to know what subject required more of a reduction in light than 1/8000th, f/8, ISO 100 could provide - that's 19EV. If it's a case of wanting to blur water via long exposure, exposure blending is probably a better call anyway, as it will yield fewer artifacts when stitching.
It’s not a matter of if you can or can’t achieve a particular EV with stopping down or high shutter. Of course you can.

It’s if you are making a creative choice that you WANT a lower shutter speed or f- stop- for whatever reason- that you need ND filters. At least during the day.
 
It’s not a matter of if you can or can’t achieve a particular EV with stopping down or high shutter. Of course you can.

It’s if you are making a creative choice that you WANT a lower shutter speed or f- stop- for whatever reason- that you need ND filters. At least during the day.
But my point is that there's no practical use for a lower shutter speed speed or aperture when shooting a panoramic photo with a drone. You don't need a lower aperture for subject isolation, and even dipping to f/5.6 to avoid diffraction still leaves plenty of EV flexibility.

You don't really need a slower shutter for a photo, unlike with video and the 180 degree shutter rule. My original hypothetical of smoothing water is really the only case I can come up with, and even that is better served by exposure blending, as multi second exposures are going to cause issues of their own.

To the original point, while it's inconvenient that the Mavic 3's filter and lens adapter behavior is inconsistent, NDs aren't necessary for any photos with a drone, and just stopping down is a perfectly suitable alternative.
 
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