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Do you use D-log?

christiand

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Hi everyone

When i edit video, i like to be able to have the best possibilities to color grade, and change the style for my needs. Therefore, D-log on the mavic pro was a major selling point, but when i did use it, both with and without the LUT from DJI, the quality didn't seem optimal at all. It was hard to recover shadows, and highlights seemed way blown. post-sharpening was not optimal at all. So is the D-log profile just crap? Or do you use it?
 
I personally don't use D-log...its way too flat and you can't recover much detail in post.....however....hot off the press...Art is back [emoji2]..which I think is the best setting if you intend to edit in post


Sent from my iPad using MavicPilots
 
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I personally don't use D-log...its way too flat and you can't recover much detail in post.....however....hot off the press...Art is back [emoji2]..which I think is the best setting if you intend to edit in post


Sent from my iPad using MavicPilots

If you grade in post, a common suggestion seems to be to use ART at -1,-3,-3 (Sharpness, Contrast, Saturation). The few videos I did seem to work fine with that setting.
 
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ART, -1.-3.-3. That IS the ticket. If its a very low contrast day, monochromatic and dull, Don't use this setting. Maybe ART 0,0,0 or D-Cinelike 0,0,0
 
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ART, -1.-3.-3. That IS the ticket. If its a very low contrast day, monochromatic and dull, Don't use this setting. Maybe ART 0,0,0 or D-Cinelike 0,0,0

It is my understanding that for color grading in post you need a very low contrast, monochromatic and "dull" recording. If you do not want to apply LUTs (DaVinci Resolve, Color Finale, ..) then you should avoid it of course. Similar with stills, if you do not want to process them use JPGs instead of RAWs.
 
It is my understanding that for color grading in post you need a very low contrast, monochromatic and "dull" recording. If you do not want to apply LUTs (DaVinci Resolve, Color Finale, ..) then you should avoid it of course. Similar with stills, if you do not want to process them use JPGs instead of RAWs.
I think you are misreading my post? The part about the dull, monochromic day was what settings to shoot in under those conditions ( i.e. other than bright, contrasty days). When it is a very blah scene, and you shoot in ART -1,-3,-3, it is way difficult to edit it post because there is no info to process, much like shooting in D-log. At least in my experience. I was saying that dull scenes can be processed better when you give the recording something to work with. Or did I misunderstand your comment? Sorry if I did.
 
I think you are misreading my post? The part about the dull, monochromic day was what settings to shoot in under those conditions ( i.e. other than bright, contrasty days). When it is a very blah scene, and you shoot in ART -1,-3,-3, it is way difficult to edit it post because there is no info to process, much like shooting in D-log. At least in my experience. I was saying that dull scenes can be processed better when you give the recording something to work with. Or did I misunderstand your comment? Sorry if I did.

Thanks for clarifying. The optimal settings may depend on how you process your videos?

I am getting good results with ART -1,3,3 and Groundcontrols' LUT. See FREE Mavic Art LUT
 
Where is Art? I thought that swing was removed from dji go 4? I just booted up my magic and remote but the art mode is still missing for me.

Sent from my SM-G920F using MavicPilots mobile app
 
The Mavic camera just does not have enough data information for aggressive color grading.

Lots of advice videos came out before everyone had their Mavics to play with; they saw that it supported color profiles with pro-sounding names like D-Log, so they assumed these were preferable just like on their pro cameras.

If you use D Log, or if you set the contrast to -2 or -3 or if you set the saturation to -2 or -3, it's all the same thing: you are throwing away data. It is essentially taking a Crayola 128 Crayon box, and throwing out 3/4 or 7/8 of the crayons in the box, and trying to get as good a picture. When you push the exposure or saturation back up in the direction you like, what you get is posterized, color quantized, watercolor-tree, flickering mess.

At most, drop the contrast down by -1 to control clipping, and the saturation -1 down if you really really must try that "acid film wash" look that you saw in that Hollywood horror movie.
 
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The Mavic camera just does not have enough data information for aggressive color grading.

Lots of advice videos came out before everyone had their Mavics to play with; they saw that it supported color profiles with pro-sounding names like D-Log, so they assumed these were preferable just like on their pro cameras.

If you use D Log, or if you set the contrast to -2 or -3 or if you set the saturation to -2 or -3, it's all the same thing: you are throwing away data. It is essentially taking a Crayola 128 Crayon box, and throwing out 3/4 or 7/8 of the crayons in the box, and trying to get as good a picture. When you push the exposure or saturation back up in the direction you like, what you get is posterized, color quantized, watercolor-tree, flickering mess.

At most, drop the contrast down by -1 to control clipping, and the saturation -1 down if you really really must try that "acid film wash" look that you saw in that Hollywood horror movie.

Thank you for the post. Why do you think that Mavic fiels do not have enough data information for color grading? What style setting do you suggest do use without color grading?
 
Thanks for clarifying. The optimal settings may depend on how you process your videos?

I am getting good results with ART -1,3,3 and Groundcontrols' LUT. See FREE Mavic Art LUT
This is my go to correction as well. I have also been getting good results with that LUT in ART -1,-1,-1. If I do this setting, I have to turn the gain down on the LUT or adjust Lift and Midtones to compensate Still looks good though.
 
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Why do you think that Mavic files do not have enough data information for color grading?

A good DSLR or video camera typically records compressed video in YUV format with chroma subsampling in 4:2:2. This means for every 4 samples of luminance detail, chroma is sampled in 2x2 chunks. In addition, the sensor has 14 bits of depth before it applies profiles, so banding is pretty negligible.

The Mavic records compressed video in YUV 4:2:0 format; this drop of the last :2 to :0 means you have half as many samples of color information in the vertical direction. You may see more color artifacts and moire of color alternation (green turns to brown and back as sensor moves vertically very slowly). In addition, the sensor likely only has 10~12 useful bits of depth before it applies profiles, which is 1/16 to 1/4 of the amount of color resolution that a DSLR would have, so banding is more likely.

When you decide to flatten the data to use only the lower end of the numerical range, roundoff and quantization happens. Take a number like 129.25, and turn it into an integer (129); not much is lost. Take a number like 129.25, divide it by 16 as a dull profile might (8.078125), turn it into an integer (8), and multiply it back up by 16 in post-production (128); you can see a larger amount of information was lost. A smooth curve should have values like 128, 129, 130, 131, ... and so on. If you did the divide-then-multiply operation, your final results would step a bit and result in 128, 128, 128, 136, 136 and quantization happens. This is also why photographers stress you should "Expose to the Right" end of the histogram.

What style setting do you suggest do use without color grading?

It's a cell phone camera. Don't push it around too much. If you like one of the pre-graded colorized artistic profiles, use it. If you want a faithful color with a little pop, go with D Cinelike. Honestly for basic scenery, the default linear profile is just fine and you shouldn't stress over it so much.
 
A good DSLR or video camera typically records compressed video in YUV format with chroma subsampling in 4:2:2. This means for every 4 samples of luminance detail, chroma is sampled in 2x2 chunks. In addition, the sensor has 14 bits of depth before it applies profiles, so banding is pretty negligible.

The Mavic records compressed video in YUV 4:2:0 format; this drop of the last :2 to :0 means you have half as many samples of color information in the vertical direction. You may see more color artifacts and moire of color alternation (green turns to brown and back as sensor moves vertically very slowly). In addition, the sensor likely only has 10~12 useful bits of depth before it applies profiles, which is 1/16 to 1/4 of the amount of color resolution that a DSLR would have, so banding is more likely.

When you decide to flatten the data to use only the lower end of the numerical range, roundoff and quantization happens. Take a number like 129.25, and turn it into an integer (129); not much is lost. Take a number like 129.25, divide it by 16 as a dull profile might (8.078125), turn it into an integer (8), and multiply it back up by 16 in post-production (128); you can see a larger amount of information was lost. A smooth curve should have values like 128, 129, 130, 131, ... and so on. If you did the divide-then-multiply operation, your final results would step a bit and result in 128, 128, 128, 136, 136 and quantization happens. This is also why photographers stress you should "Expose to the Right" end of the histogram.



It's a cell phone camera. Don't push it around too much. If you like one of the pre-graded colorized artistic profiles, use it. If you want a faithful color with a little pop, go with D Cinelike. Honestly for basic scenery, the default linear profile is just fine and you shouldn't stress over it so much.

Thank you for detailed explanation. While the output of my Sony AX100 as well as Leica SL is 4:2:0 as well, I find their outputs benefit from color grading. I will run tests to confirm that color grading Mavic's output is a waste of time.
 
It's a cell phone camera. Don't push it around too much. If you like one of the pre-graded colorized artistic profiles, use it. If you want a faithful color with a little pop, go with D Cinelike. Honestly for basic scenery, the default linear profile is just fine and you shouldn't stress over it so much.

Cell phone? I know it's a small sensor but ouch!

Sent from my XT1650 using MavicPilots mobile app
 
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