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Video Editing questions...

Cerberus

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Ok, I'm trying to ask this question properly and with less confusion..

I've made some footage with my mavic at 2.7k / 30fps..

Now I'm trying to spice up the footage by color grading and enhancement..

so what are the steps do you do...

1) Do you immediately use that footage in a video editing software to spice up the colors and then output it to 1080p (and in what FPS and in what video format <- this is a question)

2) OR do you use some video conversion software first to downscale the original footage to 1080p ( and again in what FPS and video format) before stuffing the resulting conversion to some video editing software to spice up the colors..?>

Thankz,
 
Personally, I take my 4K footage and edit it in Premiere Pro (color, music, transitions, lower thirds) then output to 1080p Youtube preset in Media Encoder. It matches the source for FPS, in my case 24FPS.
You need lots of horsepower in your computer to edit 4K directly.

Mike
 
Personally, I take my 4K footage and edit it in Premiere Pro (color, music, transitions, lower thirds) then output to 1080p Youtube preset in Media Encoder. It matches the source for FPS, in my case 24FPS.
You need lots of horsepower in your computer to edit 4K directly.

Mike
Youtube 1080... hmm... I'll take a look , thankz..
 
Personally, I take my 4K footage and edit it in Premiere Pro (color, music, transitions, lower thirds) then output to 1080p Youtube preset in Media Encoder. It matches the source for FPS, in my case 24FPS.
You need lots of horsepower in your computer to edit 4K directly.

Mike
How much horsepower are you using? Do you find your computer keeps up with the 4K footage or is there some lag?


Sent from my SM-G920I using MavicPilots mobile app
 
Not sure about Mike but my system runs on i7, 8gb of ram and a GTX 670 graphic card..

I don't experience any issues editing 4k video..just have issues trying to learn how to color grade the video and make it look awesome in color and so forth
 
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How much horsepower are you using? Do you find your computer keeps up with the 4K footage or is there some lag?


Sent from my SM-G920I using MavicPilots mobile app
I used to photograph and video weddings so I have a great editing machine. I7 4790, 32Gb RAM, 512 SSD, GTX 970 video card. No lag for me.
 
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I am new to video editing but have done astrophotography for many, many years. It is always best to capture as much data as you can if you plan to do post processing. For this reason I would never downscale to 1080p before processing. I do all my edits, grading and such at full resolution and downscale on the last step.
 
While the computer demands for stills might be high as we go up and n resolution, the video demands can be super expensive with not much to show for it. I rebuilt my entire edit suite to be 4K capable in 2015 and since that one feature film I cut (my day job), not one of the dozen or so high end clients or TV shows has ever requested 4K anything. A couple three 2k DCP's, but many ProRes444 or 442HD.
I have two RAID stacks, 48TB each, and they both get more full than empty, typically with something like Red 5k camera footage during many edits. I do my CC non-destructively in sync with the edits (i.e. use metadata, LUTs etc).
Editing on Avid and PPro on HP workstations.




Sent from my iPad using MavicPilots
 
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I noted on some mavic pro footage on youtube, the colors and everything is so nice and vibrant..

Noted I have yet to get a ND filter (since I am referring to them here, what filters would you guys recommend?), I'll admit my original footage might not be that great to start with in the first place..

But really wants to know what software to use to color enhance and color grade to achieve that kind of amazing vibrant video footages... Any tips and tricks as to settings while color grading and enhancing would be great too.

:)
 
Well, Cerebus, pretty much all of the good editing software programs, whether by Premier Pro, Avid, Final Cut, whatever you use, have controls for brightness, contrast, some for saturation, or color vibrance, so you can add or subtract type and depth of color to taste.

The ND filter just allows for a slower shutter speed, given a constant lens aperture and a very bright sun, by cutting down on the amount of light that enters the camera, like sunglasses. It's the same as closing the aperture down a lot, but if you actually close the aperture down past, say, f/5.6 ot f/8 on some digital cameras, the sharpness of the image actually gets less due to lens diffraction and other digital issues. So most folk add an ND to keep the lens aperture in its sweet spot, around f/5.6 or so usually, and the shutter speed between 1/50 and 1/500 of a second. There are different strengths or grades of ND filter available to allow for this control.

The Polarizing filter is another kind of filter. Light reflecting off water, glass, whatever, has a partial polarization to it. If you use another polarizer, e.g. the filter, you can control the amount of light reflecting off the surface. The most obvious example of this is being able to see the people inside a car, for instance, shooting through the windshield. With polarizer, see inside. Without polarizer, see only the reflection of the sky, clouds, in the windshield, but not the people inside.

Is there a combination? Yes, there is. ND polarizers are more expensive, but not impossible to find.

The different brands and types mainly allow for (or obstruct) the motion of the camera and gimbal. Some you can keep on all the time, but others will block the gimbal from rotating freely, or even initializing properly, and so you have to start, self-calibrate, etc the camera, and then put the filter on it after.
I had a problem on a Phantom 3 where the filter and lens hood were too heavy for the gimbal motor to hold up comfortably. I could hear the motor whining as it struggled to hold up the weight. I ended up not using the hood, just the filter. The whine went away immediately.

So all that color enhancement stuff is easily learned via regular photo how-to websites, and off photo sites like 500px.com, that offer many tutorials, suggestions, and most importantly, sample looks and how they were gotten to quickly and easily.

For video, there are several pre-programmed looks packs available, notably Magic Bullet Looks Suite for the editing programs mentioned above, that let you select an overall look that you like, and then fine tune your own and save that out as your own custom color preset. Movie film looks are catered to by folks like filmconvert.com, that have the proper camera profiles for all DJI products as well as every other camera, to give it whatever movie/film analog look you want, and tweak that too.

Any cool photo has a series of filters and tweaks that will 99% of the time also apply to video. Similar controls and settings exist for both, or else it's not too hard to find equivalents of or analogies to, say a Photoshop filter, but used in Premiere Pro, for instance. A lot of plug-in companies will make the same color preset programs for both stills and video, with the same controls, so feel free to reach into the stills world, get the look you want and an idea of how it was done, and then apply that to your own videos!

HTH
Best
Chris
 
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Well, Cerebus, pretty much all of the good editing software programs, whether by Premier Pro, Avid, Final Cut, whatever you use, have controls for brightness, contrast, some for saturation, or color vibrance, so you can add or subtract type and depth of color to taste.

The ND filter just allows for a slower shutter speed, given a constant lens aperture and a very bright sun, by cutting down on the amount of light that enters the camera, like sunglasses. It's the same as closing the aperture down a lot, but if you actually close the aperture down past, say, f/5.6 ot f/8 on some digital cameras, the sharpness of the image actually gets less due to lens diffraction and other digital issues. So most folk add an ND to keep the lens aperture in its sweet spot, around f/5.6 or so usually, and the shutter speed between 1/50 and 1/500 of a second. There are different strengths or grades of ND filter available to allow for this control.

The Polarizing filter is another kind of filter. Light reflecting off water, glass, whatever, has a partial polarization to it. If you use another polarizer, e.g. the filter, you can control the amount of light reflecting off the surface. The most obvious example of this is being able to see the people inside a car, for instance, shooting through the windshield. With polarizer, see inside. Without polarizer, see only the reflection of the sky, clouds, in the windshield, but not the people inside.

Is there a combination? Yes, there is. ND polarizers are more expensive, but not impossible to find.

The different brands and types mainly allow for (or obstruct) the motion of the camera and gimbal. Some you can keep on all the time, but others will block the gimbal from rotating freely, or even initializing properly, and so you have to start, self-calibrate, etc the camera, and then put the filter on it after.
I had a problem on a Phantom 3 where the filter and lens hood were too heavy for the gimbal motor to hold up comfortably. I could hear the motor whining as it struggled to hold up the weight. I ended up not using the hood, just the filter. The whine went away immediately.

So all that color enhancement stuff is easily learned via regular photo how-to websites, and off photo sites like 500px.com, that offer many tutorials, suggestions, and most importantly, sample looks and how they were gotten to quickly and easily.

For video, there are several pre-programmed looks packs available, notably Magic Bullet Looks Suite for the editing programs mentioned above, that let you select an overall look that you like, and then fine tune your own and save that out as your own custom color preset. Movie film looks are catered to by folks like filmconvert.com, that have the proper camera profiles for all DJI products as well as every other camera, to give it whatever movie/film analog look you want, and tweak that too.

Any cool photo has a series of filters and tweaks that will 99% of the time also apply to video. Similar controls and settings exist for both, or else it's not too hard to find equivalents of or analogies to, say a Photoshop filter, but used in Premiere Pro, for instance. A lot of plug-in companies will make the same color preset programs for both stills and video, with the same controls, so feel free to reach into the stills world, get the look you want and an idea of how it was done, and then apply that to your own videos!

HTH
Best
Chris

gonna take me a while to digest there, but thanks for the info.. I'll look up filmconvert in a bit..
Tried adobe premier and I think it can bring out better colors than cyberlink.. but the output i dunno, the trees look blurry but otherwise the buidings color looks ok but not great..

I have a long long long way to go..
 
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