Typical Mavic Air distortion.
On both of my Air, I can't stitch a decent pano with the app.
Try running it through Microsoft ICE
What is that on my panorama?
- Thread starter Dale D
- Start date
Typical Mavic Air distortion.
On both of my Air, I can't stitch a decent pano with the app.
Try running it through Microsoft ICE
This highly doubtful- the likely scenario is the camera is designed for optimum cost/weight/performance ratio. If the design criteria was to optimise performance for stitched pano creation we would have far greater absence uneven illumination and geometric distortion. A quick look at an uncorrected DNG makes it evident this isn’t the reality.
Providing the illumination is sufficient to provide for a reasonable shutter speed at low ISO straight ND filters of good quality (no colour cast, even attenuation and absence of frame vignetting) will have no noticeable effect on the resultant pano.
As has been demonstrated PL effect or graduated attenuation are poor choices.
I never said the camera was designed for pano creation. I said the auto pano creation and stitching algorithm was intended to be used with the stock UV filter, and optimized for it. Using any other filter may introduce unpredictable results, as is clearly seen with using PL and GND filters. Please stop misconstruing my posts! We are saying the exact same thing.
Let’s be 100% clear.... The stitching routine won’t have been optimised for a UV filter. It will produce less than acceptable results with any filter that creates a change in illuminance or saturation/colour shift across the frame. Without checking I will say with confidence we both have said that, or words to it’s effect, on more than one occasion in this thread.
We agree on everything except the semantics. The stitching routine algorithm assumes the user is using the stock UV filter. Any deviation from that can produce unpredictable results. That includes "any filter that creates a change in illuminance or saturation/colour shift across the frame." Hopefully, we haven't confused any of those we are trying to help with our exchange.
Fortunately- to the extent we disagree it’s of no consequence to the issue subject of this thread.We agree on everything except the semantics. The stitching routine algorithm assumes the user is using the stock UV filter. Any deviation from that can produce unpredictable results. That includes "any filter that creates a change in illuminance or saturation/colour shift across the frame." Hopefully, we haven't confused any of those we are trying to help with our exchange.
Thanks to all for your help. I wrote to Freewell Filters and they responded back to me with the following, which answers my questions completely and they cite a great reference which you all might like to read
havecamerawilltravel.com
Why Not to Use a Polarizer Filter When Shooting Panoramas
It's often a bad idea to use a polarizer filter when shooting panoramas. Here are examples showing why.
havecamerawilltravel.com
What did they say about the variable ND filters?Thanks to all for your help. I wrote to Freewell Filters and they responded back to me with the following, which answers my questions completely and they cite a great reference which you all might like to read
Why Not to Use a Polarizer Filter When Shooting Panoramas
It's often a bad idea to use a polarizer filter when shooting panoramas. Here are examples showing why.
Mossiback
Well-Known Member
That would be a very usable set, but get the non-polarized versions to avoid your banding problem.
I am glad you got the info direct from a manufacturer. They did not mention that the problem with polarized filters is also seen in videos and can make it very difficult to maintain a consistent sky when stitching different scenes together.
The smudge as you call it look like Newton Rings. Wikipedia describes them as:
"a phenomenon in which an interference pattern is created by the reflection of light between two surfaces—a spherical surface and an adjacent touching flat surface. It is named after Isaac Newton, who investigated the effect in his 1704 treatise Opticks. When viewed with monochromatic light, Newton's rings appear as a series of concentric, alternating bright and dark rings centered at the point of contact between the two surfaces. When viewed with white light, it forms a concentric ring pattern of rainbow colors, because the different wavelengths of light interfere at different thicknesses of the air layer between the surfaces."
This may have been mentioned here- did not feel up to reading the whole thread as this is an easy, straightforward one; Do not use the variable nd for panoramas- you will get variation in sky tone and saturation due to the polarizer angle to the light source (don’t use a polarizer either). If you must use an ND to achieve desired exposure settings, use a fixed ND.
mfc
Well-Known Member
You are not the first to have this problem ... I've seen very similar 'skies' in several other forums about the Mavic Mini.
My first suggestion is to save the unstitched files as JPG and inspect them to see if anything obviously wrong. Then stitch them using MS ICE or Hugin (see: PanGazer - making panoramic images for a summary) and see how the resulting panorama then looks: this will tell you whether the original images are bad or if the problem is the Mini's stitching algorithm (I suspect the latter, from seeing a few of these).
My first suggestion is to save the unstitched files as JPG and inspect them to see if anything obviously wrong. Then stitch them using MS ICE or Hugin (see: PanGazer - making panoramic images for a summary) and see how the resulting panorama then looks: this will tell you whether the original images are bad or if the problem is the Mini's stitching algorithm (I suspect the latter, from seeing a few of these).
Variable ND-filter are 2 polarising filters on top of each other where the top filter can be rotated.
Disadvantage of this technique is the X-cross effect wich becomes stronger the darker you set the filter.
ND Variable Fader Filter Problem - X Cross Effect
X pattern with cheap variable ND filter
www.dpreview.com
Disadvantage of this technique is the X-cross effect wich becomes stronger the darker you set the filter.
ND Variable Fader Filter Problem - X Cross Effect
X pattern with cheap variable ND filter
X pattern with cheap variable ND filter: Open Talk Forum: Digital Photography Review
Expert news, reviews and videos of the latest digital cameras, lenses, accessories, and phones. Get answers to your questions in our photography forums.
www.dpreview.com
What am I missing here? Variable ND filters are two polarizing filters together. As the response from the manufacturer stated, don’t use polarizing filters for pano‘s because the polarizing effect varies depending on the angle from the sun. The individual shots are at different angles from the sun thus the sky looks like different exposure settings. It has nothing to do with the stitching algorithm.
Dale D’s test essentially confirmed this when the pano without the variable (polarizing) ND was not used. I suspect that using any single density (non polarized) ND filter will result in a good pano.
Dale D’s test essentially confirmed this when the pano without the variable (polarizing) ND was not used. I suspect that using any single density (non polarized) ND filter will result in a good pano.
I always make my panorama's in post, using my (1st gen Mavic pro):
1) Setup the gimbal into portrait mode (have more pixels in height)
2) Calibrate gimbal to be perfectly level, having the horizon mid-frame
3) Setup RAW and 5-picture AEB (depending on light of the scene). Setup exposure, lock exposure & gimbal control and start shooting.
4) Only rotate the drone max 40% of your frame width per image to have sufficient overlap. Less overlap may cause stitching problems or having a resulting image that has reduced height
5) Optionally set your gimbal to a different attitude & record a second panorama, overlapping the first. Post-production can make a heigher resulting image that way
6) Take some landscape oriented images as well if the final panorama does not work out
In Post (using for instance Lightroom):
7) Compose HDR images of all AEB pictures
8) Stitch to panorama
An example of 10 portrait images wide, 5 AEB images per portrait pano that I took at sunrise on July 4th 2:45 hours last year on top of the Blue mountain at Landmannalaugar, Iceland, had to reduce resolution to post here
1) Setup the gimbal into portrait mode (have more pixels in height)
2) Calibrate gimbal to be perfectly level, having the horizon mid-frame
3) Setup RAW and 5-picture AEB (depending on light of the scene). Setup exposure, lock exposure & gimbal control and start shooting.
4) Only rotate the drone max 40% of your frame width per image to have sufficient overlap. Less overlap may cause stitching problems or having a resulting image that has reduced height
5) Optionally set your gimbal to a different attitude & record a second panorama, overlapping the first. Post-production can make a heigher resulting image that way
6) Take some landscape oriented images as well if the final panorama does not work out
In Post (using for instance Lightroom):
7) Compose HDR images of all AEB pictures
8) Stitch to panorama
An example of 10 portrait images wide, 5 AEB images per portrait pano that I took at sunrise on July 4th 2:45 hours last year on top of the Blue mountain at Landmannalaugar, Iceland, had to reduce resolution to post here
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mfc
Well-Known Member
Nice!
I'm more interested in 360° part-spherical panoramas (which can then have 'flat' images extracted, or be expanded to full-sphere panoramas for FB, Google Maps/Street View, etc.). But that's really nice.
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