For recreational flying, you can take an online quiz and get a pilot license, good for 4 or 5 years.
I studied/practiced online on the France drone site. They had the training and test in English as well as French. Not sure if that's still the...
You can't fly in most urban areas and national parks.
But I've flown near some smaller towns or villages in France.
I don't think they prioritize drones, at least no signs of it.
Once had cops on bikes come up to me when I was flying my drone...