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Better stills from the Mavic

Blacksmith

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The Mavic camera isn't the best, as we all know, but it is a compromise I was willing to accept. The stills (from RAW) are usable for lots of purposes, but not for large prints. If you are handy with Photoshop, though, here's a recipe for improving resolution.

Exposure: low sensor speed (ISO), RAW, histogram maxed to the right just short of clipping. Shoot bursts of 5 or 7, perhaps multiple times. If subjects aren't moving, the Mavic is amazingly stable--enough to give images that can be aligned easily in PS. For more challenging situations, PhotoAcute may work better.

Pre-process 5 to 25 files in ACR or Lightroom, leaving sharpness low. In ACR, set resolution at least double the initial file size. If you use LR, you will have to uprez in PS. You may have to use lots of perspective control to get things looking straight, or even Transform the finished file later in PS.

Open all in PS (CC or CS6 Extended), then File-Scripts-Load open files-Create Smart Object-Attempt to Align. Then Layer-Smart Object-Stack Mode-Mean. A small bit of Smart Sharpening and perhaps some High Pass filtering and you should have a better file. It may be huge since the Smart Object contains all the open files, so flatten at some point or save as a .PSB if it's over 2GB.

If your PS version doesn't support stack statistics, try Affinity Photo--MUCH cheaper, and very capable. In some instances PhotoAcute will give better resolution and manages subject motion by using parts of the first file in the stack; it is no longer supported, though, and may not be available much longer.

Besides giving better resolution, stack averaging minimizes or even completely eliminates noise. You can pull more shadow detail as well. In a pinch you can then use higher ISO settings and still get noise levels down, but with a loss of dynamic range. You make the call.

Yeah, it's a PITA but worth it for the files you want to impress with.
 
Left our one step: File-Scripts-Load Files into Stack............
Thanks man. I considered a kind of workflow like this. But now I'm going to try it definitely.
 
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Any advice for those of us who don't have Photoshop. lightroom, PhotoAcute, Affinity etc? And what is ACR?
 
Any advice for those of us who don't have Photoshop. lightroom, PhotoAcute, Affinity etc? And what is ACR?

Adobe Camera Raw, the RAW converter for Photoshop. Only advice is to try increasing file size with something like OnOne Perfect Resize or whatever editor you currently use. In lots of instances that can give you a decent print. My recollection, though, is that PhotoAcute is only about $50, and Affinity is about the same, so the investment in one of those programs is trivial compared to PS. Learning curves are much flatter, too.
 
Thank you. I'll look into OnOne. I do have Adobe Photoshop Elements. Any advice on using that?
 
Just wanted to say a big thanks on this thread. I've been playing with Blacksmith's technique and my photos are now much better and sharper. I've been using Exposure Bracketing to shoot 5 photos, then merge in Photoshop. I've used the Smart Sharpen and High Pass, but I've been finding the Nik Collection (now Google owned) is much easier to use in the final sharpening.

Here's one of my results around my hometown. I had to downsize it though as original file was 12MB.

Oct 22, 17 - Above 2 Circle Street Smaller.jpg
 
Just wanted to say a big thanks on this thread. I've been playing with Blacksmith's technique and my photos are now much better and sharper. I've been using Exposure Bracketing to shoot 5 photos, then merge in Photoshop. I've used the Smart Sharpen and High Pass, but I've been finding the Nik Collection (now Google owned) is much easier to use in the final sharpening.

Here's one of my results around my hometown. I had to downsize it though as original file was 12MB.

View attachment 23720
That’s quality. Far better than what I’m getting. What settings are you using on the mavic.
 
Just wanted to say a big thanks on this thread. I've been playing with Blacksmith's technique and my photos are now much better and sharper. I've been using Exposure Bracketing to shoot 5 photos, then merge in Photoshop. I've used the Smart Sharpen and High Pass, but I've been finding the Nik Collection (now Google owned) is much easier to use in the final sharpening.

Here's one of my results around my hometown. I had to downsize it though as original file was 12MB.

View attachment 23720

I can see blur around the trees but I can't be sure whether that's because of object motion or your in-camera sharpness settings.
 
That’s quality. Far better than what I’m getting. What settings are you using on the mavic.

Shooting RAW, using ISO 100, Auto White Balance, Colour is D-Log, Style is where I am not sure at the moment (Don't have drone with me to connect), but I believe it is +1, -1,-1 but I will check on that.
 
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I can see blur around the trees but I can't be sure whether that's because of object motion or your in-camera sharpness settings.
That's object motion. There was some slight wind while I was up there, and that is just the trees blowing slightly. Since I layered 5 shots together, there is some motion effect in some of the trees.
I'm finding that to be my biggest challenge when shooting shots like this one. Anything with a lot of trees, I'm usually ending up with a few trees showing some movement (unless there is absolutely no wind).

Here's another shot, where is was calmer, so the trees aren't moving. But just take a look at the boat and you can see the movement issues. The Mavic shoots 5 shots fairly quick, but you still get 5 shots with slight variations in movement.

Oct 22, 17 - Port Dalhousie (2) SMALLER.jpg
 
Do you use filters on these photos.

Yes, I have a set of Taco RC filters that I use according to lighting conditions.
 
There fantastic. I had ago before see if I can load them up shortly.
 
What was shutter speed?

Oops, forgot that.

On the first photo I posted, it was 1/60, exposure was -0.7
On the second photo with the boat, it was 1/320, exposure was -1.3
 
Oops, forgot that.

On the first photo I posted, it was 1/60, exposure was -0.7
On the second photo with the boat, it was 1/320, exposure was -1.3
Is my pic ok. Uploaded it of iPad. Still all new to this but it seems a lot better than what I was getting at first.
 
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