Controller Dji RC1A, not charing, doesnt turn on

[Panda15004]

hi guys, the remote control of my mavic 2 zZOom no longer turned on, disassembled it thinking it was the dead battery, I reconnected the battery and the remote control turns on for a moment, connecting, and then turns off, I noticed that it gets very hot at this point(photo), what could it be?

 

[Felix le Chat]

I still use both the RC1A and the RC1B, battery charging started to get a bit flakey with the 1A, so I replaced the standard 3950 battery with a 4600. This turned out NOT to be the problem.

Since discovered there are 2 points of failure with RC1A's: the battery (tried it) and the battery management chip (I believe that's the crispy looking item you've ringed). Turned out my BMC is what's on the Fritz.

If it's getting hot with momentary current running through it: it will definitely burn out completely with a continuous load being pushed through it. Time to replace the controller.

If you wanted to replace the controller main board with a new unit: that'll cost you the Euro equivalent to £156. If you find a second hand replacement controller through e-bay, you'll pay between £80 and £150 for a reasonably good one in working condition.

The replacement RC1B I bought had a faulty charging port and needed a new button board. All told, it cost me £40 (controller) plus £29 (button board).

If you choose to buy another controller: look for the RC1B - this was released later than the original RC1A and the only difference seems to be it uses chips from another manufacturer.

 

[Yorkshire_Pud]

: look for the RC1B - this was released later than the original RC1A

be aware the RC1B does not create DAT flight logs in the attached phone, that may or may nor be important to the user.

 

[Panda15004]

Io uso ancora sia la RC1A che la RC1B, la carica della batteria ha iniziato a diventare un po' instabile con la 1A, quindi ho sostituito la batteria standard 3950 con una 4600. Questo NON è risultato essere il problema.

Da quando ho scoperto che ci sono 2 punti di guasto con gli RC1A: la batteria (l'ho provato) e il chip di gestione della batteria (credo che sia l'oggetto croccante che hai chiamato). Si è scoperto che il mio BMC è quello che c'è sul Fritz.

Se si surriscalda con corrente momentanea che lo attraversa: si brucerà sicuramente completamente con un carico continuo che lo attraversa. È il momento di sostituire il controller.

Se volessi sostituire la scheda madre del controller con una nuova unità: ti costerebbe l'equivalente in euro di £156. Se trovi un controller sostitutivo di seconda mano su e-bay, pagherai tra £80 e £150 per uno ragionevolmente buono e funzionante.

Il RC1B sostitutivo che ho acquistato aveva una porta di ricarica difettosa e necessitava di una nuova scheda pulsanti. In totale, mi è costato 40 £ (controller) più 29 £ (scheda pulsanti).

Se scegli di acquistare un altro controller: cerca il modello RC1B: è stato lanciato dopo l'originale RC1A e l'unica differenza sembra essere che utilizza chip di un altro produttore.

thanks for the explanation, so I'll look for a new controller, thanks again

 

[Starz]

In many cases, the charge port gets damaged. As for fried chips, I have no knowledge. The charge port is easily remedied by replacing that particular board.

 

[Panda15004]

I still use both the RC1A and the RC1B, battery charging started to get a bit flakey with the 1A, so I replaced the standard 3950 battery with a 4600. This turned out NOT to be the problem.

Since discovered there are 2 points of failure with RC1A's: the battery (tried it) and the battery management chip (I believe that's the crispy looking item you've ringed). Turned out my BMC is what's on the Fritz.

If it's getting hot with momentary current running through it: it will definitely burn out completely with a continuous load being pushed through it. Time to replace the controller.

If you wanted to replace the controller main board with a new unit: that'll cost you the Euro equivalent to £156. If you find a second hand replacement controller through e-bay, you'll pay between £80 and £150 for a reasonably good one in working condition.

The replacement RC1B I bought had a faulty charging port and needed a new button board. All told, it cost me £40 (controller) plus £29 (button board).

If you choose to buy another controller: look for the RC1B - this was released later than the original RC1A and the only difference seems to be it uses chips from another manufacturer.

I'm looking for a used remote control online, to know that it works well, as well as a video where it turns on, what can I have the seller send me?

 

[Felix le Chat]

I'm looking for a used remote control online, to know that it works well, as well as a video where it turns on, what can I have the seller send me?

Ask the seller if it's 100% full working order. If the seller is honest they'll tell you if there are any problems.... and what the problems are. If it does have a problem, most of them are pretty basic and relatively easy to put right (except for main board replacement which is crazy expensive).

**Make sure the seller accepts returns**

These controllers are obsolete, so 99% of them will have had heavy use, you must expect this.

What would I ask for?

A photograph of the charging state of the battery with the charging lead plugged in (100% is best) as this shows the controller is capable of storing a full charge.

A photograph of the controller telemetry screen showing the "connecting" graphics.

A still shot of the controller telemetry screen connected to the drone (so you know it does link up properly).

A shot of the GO4 app open to the live camera view (to make sure there is HD video out)

I think this is all you can reasonably expect.

 

[Yorkshire_Pud]

I'm looking for a used remote control online, to know that it works well, as well as a video where it turns on, what can I have the seller send me?

In the UK I would use ebay, you will have to check your ebay's site for it rules and definitions, but in the UK ANYTHING sold in the "USED" condition category MUST work as intended by the manufacturer.

If it doesn't then the buyer can open a "not as described" case against the seller and negotiate a discount or ask to return the item.

If a return is asked for it is at the seller's expense.
ALL communication MUST be via ebay messages, ebay may want to read them if there is a dispute.
The return MUST be via trackable means and I would suggest the postage should be prepaid by the seller with the seller sending the buyer a label via email.
There are certain time scales that must be complied with by both parties.

Once the returned item has reached the seller and that can be seen in the tracking, then the seller must provide a full refund to the buyer and that includes the original carriage charge from the seller to the buyer.
Meaning, the buyer doesn't lose a penny and the seller ends up out of pocket.

Even if an ebay UK seller has "no returns accepted" in the text of their advert it is irrelevant for an item sold in the "used" category, it is ebay's definitions and T&C the govern the transaction.

I would also check the photos for the serial number of the controller, it is on the label on the back of the controller by that QR ? image. If the serial number is not readable in a photo then ask the seller for it via ebay messages.
This works as protection for both parties, it is a method of checking that the buyer gets the advertised item and, in the event of a return, that the buyer sends back the correct item.
Sellers have been ripped off by buyers sending back a diferent item whilst keeping the good bought item.

If ebay in Italy has the same condidtion and definitions as ebay UK then it is a fairly safe bet.

 

[Starz]

These controllers are obsolete

I’m going to question this. The aircraft it controls is one of the best products DJI stuffed in a box and there are plenty out there still disturbing air. I have a few working controllers but shipping across the pond may be cost prohibitive.

 

[Yorkshire_Pud]

may be cost prohibitive

Plus there maybe import duties levied PLUS a fee for collecting them lol. OUCH ....... it hurt.

 

[Felix le Chat]

I’m going to question this. The aircraft it controls is one of the best products DJI stuffed in a box and there are plenty out there still disturbing air. I have a few working controllers but shipping across the pond may be cost prohibitive.

*obsolete* - as in: 'legacy hardware': no longer produced.

You're preaching to the choir about the Mavic 2's... I still reckon they occupy top spot for most reliable, most complete (software & firmware), most well-rounded and versatile drone at least equal to the Phantom 4 pro+ (but a hell of a lot better looking).

Like American Express: I don't leave home without (either of) mine.

 

[Starz]

I like this terminology a little more gooder.

Definition of OBSOLETE

no longer in use or no longer useful; of a kind or style no longer current : old-fashioned; indistinct or imperfect as compared with a corresponding part in related organisms : vestigial… See the full definition

www.merriam-webster.com

 

[Felix le Chat]

I like this terminology a little more gooder.

Definition of OBSOLETE

no longer in use or no longer useful; of a kind or style no longer current : old-fashioned; indistinct or imperfect as compared with a corresponding part in related organisms : vestigial… See the full definition

www.merriam-webster.com

Depends whether you speak American English or English English. First use referring to something no longer produced: 1640.