Correct color with D-Cinelike

[CanadaDrone]

I imagine you are aware of the "shoot to the right" advocates. The argument I've heard is that there is more information in brighter (stronger) light sources. Therefore, the farther right you shoot without clipping, the more information you capture.

I personally have no clue if there is any truth to this...

The more light you can get on the sensor the better, always, without blowing/clipping highlights or color channels. The trouble is highlights blow easily and are much more difficult (often impossible) to recover if you go too far. Shadows on the other hand, are usually much easier to recover but not from a sensor like the 1/2.3" one used in the Mavic Air. Your best bet is to just try get an even exposure because the leeway is almost zero with the sensor used in the Air.

 

[Dave Maine]

It is true due to the logarithmic nature of the luminance curve used. There are more bits available to capture a high end range than a darker one. It may not look as good when you first see it - it will look overexposed but when you color correct in post, you will have much more information for achieving a good grade.

 

[BigglesKDH]

I made a Mavic Air LUT to be used with Cinelike and -3 on the saturation. Seems to work well for my exterior shoots : Dropbox - DJI_Cinelike_-3_Saturation_1.DJI_0002.cube

Thanks, that Lut is awesome, much better than the Ground_Control version i've been using (Ground_Control_FREE_CineLike-D_LUT which is way too saturated).

 

[baddog]

I use to use the LUT from ground control early on. Then I just started color correcting/grading manually in premiere. Now, I use Magic Bullet from Red Giant to color correct or grade.