Flying with an ND Filter

[molonel]

Please bear with the potentially basic beginner question, but I am a bit confused about the usage of ND Filters. There is tons of information and threads out there describing why ND filters, which settings and how to install them. But what I seem to be missing is on how you actually fly with them and take footage?
What I mean: I install my filters, all settings are in manual and optimized based on the histogram. Then I take off, but the moment I change the camera direction, the exposure obviously changes and at same point I would need to adapt the settings.
So is my understanding correct that you only take footage into a certain direction where the light conditions fit the installed filter - then return, swap filters and take footage into the respective other direction using a filter that is better suited for the light conditions in that very direction?

I purchased some filters for my Mavic Mini and tried it the other day. Hoped I could keep the same filter on and just adapting camera settings in flight when changing directions. But there was a huge difference in lighting (and I was not flying directly into the sun or anything) so it just felt as if I cannot get by one complete flight without swapping filters. This sounds like a huge hassle, unless I am missing something.

 

[RGallant]

I have always used a manual setting for exposure on my hand held camera, you need to do the same with drone.
I set ISO, based on the kind of light I have , as well as manually setting white balance, and shutter speed if required.

Video and photo need to be set

 

[brett8883]

Please bear with the potentially basic beginner question, but I am a bit confused about the usage of ND Filters. There is tons of information and threads out there describing why ND filters, which settings and how to install them. But what I seem to be missing is on how you actually fly with them and take footage?
What I mean: I install my filters, all settings are in manual and optimized based on the histogram. Then I take off, but the moment I change the camera direction, the exposure obviously changes and at same point I would need to adapt the settings.
So is my understanding correct that you only take footage into a certain direction where the light conditions fit the installed filter - then return, swap filters and take footage into the respective other direction using a filter that is better suited for the light conditions in that very direction?

I purchased some filters for my Mavic Mini and tried it the other day. Hoped I could keep the same filter on and just adapting camera settings in flight when changing directions. But there was a huge difference in lighting (and I was not flying directly into the sun or anything) so it just felt as if I cannot get by one complete flight without swapping filters. This sounds like a huge hassle, unless I am missing something.

That issue will really only be so apparent when the sun is low in the sky but yes, in theory you would change the ND filter when lighting conditions change. So if there is a lighting change when you change directions you would change the ND filter.

In reality you can double your shutter speed to do the same thing as doubling your ND filter strength (ND4 to ND8 for example) and almost nobody is going to notice.

 

[JackL]

I went with polarizers instead of ND filters and find I rarely use them. Unless you have a waterfall or some other seriously special situation where you need to slow down the shutter speed for some cool effect I doubt you will ever want to put them on, tbh.

 

[The Admiral]

Hi. Ive been doing loads of photography in the Antarctic, not with a drone.loads of white and strong sun as you can imagine. Never used nd filters at all. Just take reading of say a grey rock, if you can find one lol.or an anorak etc, use that setting and shoot into the sun.

 

[Vic Moss]

ND filters are to set your to double your shutter speed for your film rate (30 fps = 1/60 sec, 60 fps = 1/125 sec, etc.). That's called the 180° Rule.

There is no need to change them when you're flying the different direction, a sunlit scene exposure doesn't change. The only time you need to change exposure is if you want the scene to look different.

The Mini (& other drones w/o controllable aperture) do have an inherent issue in that you're stuck with 2.8. And if you already have the ISO set as low as possible, the only thing you can do is set a faster shutter. And then you lose the 180° Rule.

A Mini does require darker and more varied ND filters than other drones.

 

[hiflyer201]

On a average sunlit day you should be good with a 16. You may have to raise the ISO a bit if you gimbal down into a shady area. If you gimbal up much above the rule of thirds the sky is going to be blown out Overhead lighting is pretty constant. As others say, unless you insist on sticking to the 180 rule, they are not really necessary. I'm speaking of drones with the fixed apeture.

 

[tlswift58]

Please bear with the potentially basic beginner question, but I am a bit confused about the usage of ND Filters. There is tons of information and threads out there describing why ND filters, which settings and how to install them. But what I seem to be missing is on how you actually fly with them and take footage?
What I mean: I install my filters, all settings are in manual and optimized based on the histogram. Then I take off, but the moment I change the camera direction, the exposure obviously changes and at same point I would need to adapt the settings.
So is my understanding correct that you only take footage into a certain direction where the light conditions fit the installed filter - then return, swap filters and take footage into the respective other direction using a filter that is better suited for the light conditions in that very direction?

I purchased some filters for my Mavic Mini and tried it the other day. Hoped I could keep the same filter on and just adapting camera settings in flight when changing directions. But there was a huge difference in lighting (and I was not flying directly into the sun or anything) so it just felt as if I cannot get by one complete flight without swapping filters. This sounds like a huge hassle, unless I am missing something.

That is what the EV setting is for when in auto. I fly with a low ND - maybe a 16 - and if too bright, I dial in a - (minus) EV to darken the photo. Too dark - give it a + (plus) EV and it lightens it up. If you are using FlyApp 1.4.8 - it is now a horizontal bar that to me is too finicky, but you don't have to use the slider dot - simply put your finger to left or right of dot depending if you want + or - EV and it will jump to a setting. Maybe too much or too little - another one of those things you have to play with to get it down.

Many like to fly in manual and that is cool - yet it does take some time to adjust everything out and wasting valuable flying time until it becomes 2nd nature.

Either way works.

 

[molonel]

Thanks for the feedback! Alright, I will be more liberal in changing settings in-flight. Anything is better than stopping midway to change the filters, and thus losing valuable flight time.
Will probably also test again without ND filters, since apparently quite a few people do not use any at all and seem to be happy with their footage.

 

[arjay3]

Please bear with the potentially basic beginner question, but I am a bit confused about the usage of ND Filters. There is tons of information and threads out there describing why ND filters, which settings and how to install them. But what I seem to be missing is on how you actually fly with them and take footage?
What I mean: I install my filters, all settings are in manual and optimized based on the histogram. Then I take off, but the moment I change the camera direction, the exposure obviously changes and at same point I would need to adapt the settings.
So is my understanding correct that you only take footage into a certain direction where the light conditions fit the installed filter - then return, swap filters and take footage into the respective other direction using a filter that is better suited for the light conditions in that very direction?

I purchased some filters for my Mavic Mini and tried it the other day. Hoped I could keep the same filter on and just adapting camera settings in flight when changing directions. But there was a huge difference in lighting (and I was not flying directly into the sun or anything) so it just felt as if I cannot get by one complete flight without swapping filters. This sounds like a huge hassle, unless I am missing something.

Professional videographers generally follow the 180 rule for commercial videos. Smoother more cinematic results. ND filters on fixed aperture drones are a requirement to meet those standards on a bright day.

 

[Dale D]

Please bear with the potentially basic beginner question, but I am a bit confused about the usage of ND Filters. There is tons of information and threads out there describing why ND filters, which settings and how to install them. But what I seem to be missing is on how you actually fly with them and take footage?
What I mean: I install my filters, all settings are in manual and optimized based on the histogram. Then I take off, but the moment I change the camera direction, the exposure obviously changes and at same point I would need to adapt the settings.
So is my understanding correct that you only take footage into a certain direction where the light conditions fit the installed filter - then return, swap filters and take footage into the respective other direction using a filter that is better suited for the light conditions in that very direction?

I purchased some filters for my Mavic Mini and tried it the other day. Hoped I could keep the same filter on and just adapting camera settings in flight when changing directions. But there was a huge difference in lighting (and I was not flying directly into the sun or anything) so it just felt as if I cannot get by one complete flight without swapping filters. This sounds like a huge hassle, unless I am missing something.

When you set your exposure in manual, and the lighting changes on your screen, there is no law that says you cannot adjust the setting to make the exposure better. I fly slowly and watch the monitor and the histogram, and if the need arises, I will change the light settings to improve the exposure. You can remove the adjustment sections in post (edit out). ND filters are mainly for motion blur with moving cars, water, etc.

 

[RobW01]

Placing and removing ND filters on the MA2 has been a concern since I first tried it—I worry about damaging the gimbal connections every time. So, last week I bought a VND and gave that a try, figuring it would be less of a risk gently turning the dial than removing and replacing regular NDs depending on the light, change of direction and so on. It certainly is more convenient and certainly less likely to damage the gimbal EXCEPT that it it harder to get the bloody awful gimbal cover on and off. I’ve been thinking of making a cover by cutting into some kind of soft foam ball. Any ideas? Incidentally, some time ago, a client wanted a video that allowed him to see the details on trees and shrubs in an area being regenerated, and we agreed to shoot without an ND. The mid and high shots were fine, even when moving backwards and forwards (slowly). Moves such as orbits were a little jittery, but we cut it so that it wasn’t that obvious. Low level stuff was good, but I had to be really careful to move very slowly and carefully. Anyway, the client was pleased and has booked me for a return to do it again in our Southern Hemisphere Spring.

 

[Michael Ainsworth]

I use ND filters to adjust frame rate and shutter speeds. Just get used to taking shots without filters first and working out how to use the settings such as exposure and shutter speeds. If a bright day reduce your EV settings. I always err on the side of underexpose. Easier to bring detail back up. But if shooting and processing in Raw you can get a great deal of info back.
Just putting a filter on will not resolve poor processing.
Probably 90% of my good shots are due to good processing in a good programme.

 

[Dale D]

Know how, when and which ND Filter to use. The App supports
ND4, ND8, ND16, ND32, ND64, Long Exposure Timer and ND Filter Guide For Drones, AFPV, Action Camera, DSLR and Mirrorless Camera. This App will also helps you Estimate the panning speed and Time to Reduce Judder or Jitter in any camera.
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https://apps.apple.com/us/app/cineshot-pro/id6443870843
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As I understand, the mavic mini 2 does not have a variable aperture like the Mavic 2 Pro or the Mavic 3. So in your case, an ND filter would be to achieve motion blur on moving subjects, or to achieve a proper exposure when the ambient light is just too bright. I have a tendency to the lazy side, and leave my ND16 filter on with my Mavic 3, and only remove it in dim or poor lighting conditions such as dawn, sunset, or night shots.

 

[Cymru]

If you're taking photos do not fly with the ND filter - it'll increase blur or noise.
If its video you need the correct filter to get a shutter speed in the range required for smoother video.

NDs do nothing other than reduce light. They dont change range, dont help with colour, nothing. Purely to get smoother video by reducing the shutter.

The drone in auto will always attempt to get a correct exposure, with or without filter. The question is what shutter speed results in that correct exposure.

 

[Filthy13]

There is a case for using ND for photos (i.e. long exposure). This can definitely be done with the right copter in optimal conditions. For video that doesn't look choppy or strobby, the proper ND filter is paramount in helping to achieve a proper exposure for the given framerate. Small adjustments can be made to shutter, etc. when adjusting compositions. But if you flip around 180 degrees with a regular camera, of course the exposure changes since the light is on the other side. And you would of course when handholding your camera, you'd adjust things accordingly to get a proper exposure. Why wouldn't you do the same with the camera that's in the sky?