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Jerky, Overshooting Sticks on Mavic Mini 2

Dale D

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I am still having trouble with my new Mini 2 sticks. What settings does everyone recommend to reduce the jerkiness? If I try to do a three (3) or four (4) image pano, they overshoot. What NUMBER VALUE do you set the sticks at?
 
I am still having trouble with my new Mini 2 sticks. What settings does everyone recommend to reduce the jerkiness? If I try to do a three (3) or four (4) image pano, they overshoot. What NUMBER VALUE do you set the sticks at?
I can’t tell you the right number value for you, but I typically use a very low yaw speed in normal mode. I’ve rarely found the need to turn quickly while filming, quite the opposite. Even on low yaw settings, it still necessitates the lightest touch to avoid a jerky turn, which you can witness in countless newbie and novice videos. So, if your yaw is moving too quickly to position for a pano series, it’s way too responsive for filming as well. I’d try setting the yaw speed near the lowest setting and work up from there. A speed that works for filming should be appropriate for photo panning as well.
 
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What's great about the Mini 2 is that you can go into the controls as it's up in the air and adjust them for every mode. I think you'll find this under "advanced gimbal settings" or something like that. It will take some fiddling to get it as you like it.
 
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Although still not satisfied with my results, I have again slowed down all of those settings even further from my last posted video, and getting better ( not good, yet) videos...I hand it to the guys who are able to get good control right away and have their early videos come out nicely...I have moved all the settings to just about minimum numbers...it is a little hard to find it in the settings
 
Besides the settings, I find that I have better, smoother control without the sticks. I keep my thumbs on the balls and that works for me. My two cents.
Interesting you should say that. I saw that in YouTube video. I tried it and while it wasn't for me I learned a few things.

First, there is a trade-off between stick travel distance and resistance. A longer stick may provide more incremental movement at the stick base but the increased leverage produces less resistance. No sticks provides sometimes needed resistance, but each movement produces more travel at the stick base so the sensitivity of the controller balls can be compromised a bit. But there is a third thing; optimal hand position for best "intra-hand" control. I discovered this last thing quite accidentally.

In another thread a forum member posted that he founded the "optimal" (paraphrased) sticks; the Ulanzi Rockers. I was intrigued and after tracking them down at B&H I ordered a set. The Ulanzis are 16mm tall while the OEM sticks are 21mm tall. What I discovered was that the shorter sticks, bringing my thumbs closer to the controller, but more importantly the palm itself relieved the tension of having to move my thumb further from my hand giving my more natural muscular control. Additionally I am a "thumber" and could not hold onto the controller and do any kind of pinch techique. But these sticks with a wide top, when needed, allow me to keep my thumbs on top of the sticks, but I can add the index finger underneath the "cap" of the sticks so that the pinch is 45° to the sticks rather than at a 90°, keeping a more natural hand position.

1629728796850.png
 
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I have the mini2 and the A2S, the remotes are the same. They are both Model RC231. Not positive on the Air2, but I find that RC model listed as the one for the Air2. If yours says Model RC231 on the back in REALLY small print at the top of the label, it should be fine.
 
I think you mean B & H Photo in NYC...is the controller for Air 2 the same as the Mini 2?...will those sticks fit a Mini 2, do you know>
Yes I did... Not such a good typist and a terrible proof reader. I changed it. Yes, you're right. B&H.
While I didn't use the Payboo credit card on this purchase because the tax was so little and making a separate payment takes too much time and effort, I love being able to buy big ticket items from B&H because the confiscation...err... sales tax here is an outrageous 10.25%.
 
With the lower yaw speed and smoothing, you should notice your flying/filming will be much smoother. It still requires a very light touch when doing gentle turns, but it will greatly reduce the jerky course corrections I see SOOO often with amateur aerial videographers. Do the same adjustments with your gimbal settings. Gimbal tilts create the most drama with the least amount of skills.
 
Interesting you should say that. I saw that in YouTube video. I tried it and while it wasn't for me I learned a few things.

First, there is a trade-off between stick travel distance and resistance. A longer stick may provide more incremental movement at the stick base but the increased leverage produces less resistance. No sticks provides sometimes needed resistance, but each movement produces more travel at the stick base so the sensitivity of the controller balls can be compromised a bit. But there is a third thing; optimal hand position for best "intra-hand" control. I discovered this last thing quite accidentally.

In another thread a forum member posted that he founded the "optimal" (paraphrased) sticks; the Ulanzi Rockers. I was intrigued and after tracking them down at B&H I ordered a set. The Ulanzis are 16mm tall while the OEM sticks are 21mm tall. What I discovered was that the shorter sticks, bringing my thumbs closer to the controller, but more importantly the palm itself relieved the tension of having to move my thumb further from my hand giving my more natural muscular control. Additionally I am a "thumber" and could not hold onto the controller and do any kind of pinch techique. But these sticks with a wide top, when needed, allow me to keep my thumbs on top of the sticks, but I can add the index finger underneath the "cap" of the sticks so that the pinch is 45° to the sticks rather than at a 90°, keeping a more natural hand position.

View attachment 133889
Thanks for the tip on those rockers. Just bought a pair. I’m shooting video most of the time and most of my moves are combination of sweeping turns, elevation change and gimbal tilts simultaneously, requiring a fine touch, dexterity and coordination.
 
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Thanks for the tip on those rockers. I’m shooting video most of the time and most of my moves are combination of sweeping turns, elevation change and gimbal tilts simultaneously, requiring a fine touch, dexterity and coordination.
Yeah... Those combinations take a lot of practice and dexterity to get down and smooth. While I'm not yet totally proficient I get out and practice as often as I can. I think the rocker sticks can help. Still I have no idea how someone with the "pinch" technique can hold both sides of the sticks and operate the gimbal pitch wheel simultaneously? Holding onto the controller, pinching with thumb and index finger I can barely reach the gimbal wheel, yet operate it with any dexterity while my other fingers are tied up on the sticks.

In some ways I'd like to see someone come out with similar sticks to the Ulanzis and a bit shorter yet.
 
Yeah... Those combinations take a lot of practice and dexterity to get down and smooth. While I'm not yet totally proficient I get out and practice as often as I can. I think the rocker sticks can help. Still I have no idea how someone with the "pinch" technique can hold both sides of the sticks and operate the gimbal pitch wheel simultaneously? Holding onto the controller, pinching with thumb and index finger I can barely reach the gimbal wheel, yet operate it with any dexterity while my other fingers are tied up on the sticks.

In some ways I'd like to see someone come out with similar sticks to the Ulanzis and a bit shorter yet.
I accompany all gimbal tilt downs with an increase in elevation and vice versa, to help maintain axis with the center point of rotation and reduced forward speed. Coupled with a turnaround, it’s a complicated move as it needs to be reversed as you make the U-turn, sort of like a roller coaster that goes up, makes the u-turn and sweeps back down… just not as dramatic an elevation change at each end. This elevation change is more necessary with the M2P due to the longer focal length. The gimbal tilt on the turnaround is about 45 degrees. On the tilt up-descend as the turnaround resolves, the axis point is typically the horizon line. Timing the tilt up as the turnaround completes is tricky. I watch my flight path for the right tangent point.
Pardon the hijack of the thread. I do a fair number of pano photos when flying. Photoshop is brilliant with panos with LR>PS roundtrip.
 
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I accompany all gimbal tilt downs with an increase in elevation and vice versa, to help maintain axis with the center point of rotation and reduced forward speed. Coupled with a turnaround, it’s a complicated move as it needs to be reversed as you make the U-turn, sort of like a roller coaster that goes up, makes the u-turn and sweeps back down… just not as dramatic an elevation change at each end. This elevation change is more necessary with the M2P due to the longer focal length. The gimbal tilt on the turnaround is about 45 degrees. On the tilt up-descend as the turnaround resolves, the axis point is typically the horizon line. Timing the tilt up as the turnaround completes is tricky. I watch my flight path for the right tangent point.
Pardon the hijack of the thread. I definitely do a lot of pano photos when flying. Photoshop is brilliant with panos if you use the Align method.
I'd like to see examples of what you've written, but I think this is best done on a separate thread. Would you care to start one?
 
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Are you using Cinema Mode? (Didn't see it mentioned, apologies if it was and I missed it.)

I tried it out recently and found it made a huge difference.
 
I practice by flying my spark with the phone. It’s very unforgiving and forces you to fly smoothly. I don’t know if it converts to the controller but it sure makes the controller a lot more fun
 

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