ND Filter Exposure Setup etc?

[Citizen Flier]

I'm new to drone photo/video (but experienced photographer) I have a set of PolarPro ND filters arriving today. I saw what appeared to be an excellent video which stated that images would be very soft with lens wide open of stopped down to F11. So with correct shutter settings, it seems like around F5.6 is best (?) It was also suggested to use manual exposure, and leave ISO at 100. So how do you evaluate which ND filter to use if light conditions might change, or you have a range of light/dark subjects? (perhaps you're shooting a shoreline that has a white sand beach, dark water, and a lush dark green forest inland) Do most of you shoot auto or manual exp? If shooting manual exposure I'm guessing the right knob (on Smart Controller) can still adjust aperture?

I could use a light meter to measure ambient, or point the drone at the subject area before takeoff, then choose a likely ND Filter? I'm guessing that I'll probably be using the same filter often, and switching aperture on the fly? I try to limit shooting to early AM / late evening.

Thanks for your expert help!

 

[paulatkin73]

Rule of thumb is easier here. Mavic 2 pro looses sharpness fast as you close down aperture, so, you wanna be above 5.6, ideally. Best cinematic feel would be with shutter twice the frame rate - means you want to be near 1/60 shutter if you set 4k30 mode. It is not critical in my opinion for shutter not to remain exactly at 1/60, it is not very noticeable if it deviates, say, from 1/50 to 1/90 at selected aperture. So, you just need either nd8 or nd16 to get closer to that preferred shutter speed if you set A mode, which i prefer.

Try it with and without nd filters to decide if it matters to you much or not. Some people actually prefer a feel of a video taken with a 1/250 or faster shutter. To each his own. Keep in mind that with a very fast shutter you may start getting prop shadow strobing over video.

 

[Citizen Flier]

Rule of thumb is easier here. Mavic 2 pro looses sharpness fast as you close down aperture, so, you wanna be above 5.6, ideally. Best cinematic feel would be with shutter twice the frame rate - means you want to be near 1/60 shutter if you set 4k30 mode. It is not critical in my opinion for shutter not to remain exactly at 1/60, it is not very noticeable if it deviates, say, from 1/50 to 1/90 at selected aperture. So, you just need either nd8 or nd16 to get closer to that preferred shutter speed if you set A mode, which i prefer.

Try it with and without nd filters to decide if it matters to you much or not. Some people actually prefer a feel of a video taken with a 1/250 or faster shutter. To each his own. Keep in mind that with a very fast shutter you may start getting prop shadow strobing over video.

Thanks. I should've stated that my intention was to set shutter at 1/60. I seem to recall the video tutorial stating the F.5.6 was optimum sharpness, with F8 being acceptable. But in bright settings either might cause over-x. Trying to gauge how -if I DO need a ND filter, the best way to choose which filter while still on the ground, as I'd have to land to swap filters. (as stated in OP)
I have had excellent stills so far. (1/200 - F10 - ISO 100) But the parameters are more narrow for video.

 

[Citizen Flier]

I just found this video which talks about the ND Filters -and apparently PolarPro has an App that helps you select the appropriate filter for the scene:

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Also, I rewatched the tutorial mentioned about which actually stated that F4 is the sweet spot for sharpness on M2Pro. Not sure if that's correct, but it seemed like a legit, intelligent tutorial

 

[parkgt]

Bright daylight your starting point will be an ND 16. Usually allows shutter between 2.8 and 5.6 filming 30P AT 60 FPS. If the scene is particularly bright (white sand, snow, etc) then a ND32 might be better. Just before sunset I will drop to a ND 4 if not filming much sky.

I try to stay between 2.8 and under 5.6. If I have to I will raise shutter to 80 or drop to 50.

When only doing photos I take off the NDs for faster shutter, unless wanting blur with a Hypelapse.

 

[Not A Speck Of Cereal]

Yes, in spite of the fact that we now have adjustable aperture, this one performs best at f4, maybe f5.6, but not beyond.

Manual exposure with changing light: I have the left/right 5-D button on the remote set up to change exposure compensation*, so if you select the appropriate ND filter for the basic light that works with a set shutter speed, aperture, and ISO, then you get up in the air and orient the craft towards brighter / darker areas, you can adjust the exposure with the exposure comp without changing from manual.

I try NOT to do that for footage that will end up in a final cut, because changing the exposure values mid-shoot sometimes looks obvious in the footage. But this at least lets you adjust sensitivity in the air.

* if you're running Litchi, the 5D button works differently, but you can still adjust exposure comp with it.

Chris

 

[paulatkin73]

Thanks. I should've stated that my intention was to set shutter at 1/60. I seem to recall the video tutorial stating the F.5.6 was optimum sharpness, with F8 being acceptable. But in bright settings either might cause over-x. Trying to gauge how -if I DO need a ND filter, the best way to choose which filter while still on the ground, as I'd have to land to swap filters. (as stated in OP)
I have had excellent stills so far. (1/200 - F10 - ISO 100) But the parameters are more narrow for video.

right, all i say - do not set S mode with shutter set to 1/60 firm as in this S mode it will try to alter aperture to adjust the exposure and it is very noticeable. use either a M mode or A mode. A mode is easier to manage.