What is causing my videos to record like this?

[soflo]

hey y'all what's up Brandon here from south Florida. So I attempted to capture some video footage with my Mavic just the other day, and I noticed that there was some starter or weird blinking movements in my video. Now I'm not sure if it's the cello effect because I seeing the Jell-O affect on YouTube and mine is not that bad in any way. I was shooting in manual mode which I am new at doing because I usually shoot auto, but my shutter speed was about 800, 1000, or 1200. With ISO at 100.

Now is this because I have my shutter speed so high? And no ND filters or what? I uploaded it on YouTube so you can see what I'm talking about. The first time it happened in the video was around 36-40 seconds in. On my phone it doesn't appear to look bad.. only on the computers.

Your help is much appreciated. I'm just wondering if this is a camera setting issue or it's faulty.

 

[soflo]

Anybody

 

[JTS]

Well, that's some great footage anyhow!

I know next to nothing about cameras but I'll start the ball rolling.

Did you shoot at 1080 or is that just what you uploaded to YouTube? The Mavic has hardware issues with 1080 due to pixel binning which will cause moire effects, for example the bleachers at the 20 second mark.

 

[maikm]

I don't see much wrong with this footage. Maybe the the pans look a little less smooth than they could be, and that's due to the fast shutter speed, right. But beyond that? Can you describe more precisely what you find is wrong here?

 

[soflo]

From what I see, the screen looks like its "blinking" and on some footage it is sluggish. If you look at the very right part of the screen at 36-40 seconds you will see it make this wave movement.... look at that and tell me what you think...

 

[soflo]

This is the settings that I had set when I was shooting...

 

[razors]

I have the same rolling shutter motion blur flashing effect as well.

I have noticed a lot of posts on here and Facebook forums about this.
I do not think its normal BUT seeking clarification as I may send my unit for replacement

 

[soflo]

So does anybody know exactly how to fix it? I love my Mavic and it's portability but honestly if this isn't a fix or something you have to send back I'm probably going to consider going back to the phantom 3 pro like I had or get the p4.

 

[razors]

So does anybody know exactly how to fix it? I love my Mavic and it's portability but honestly if this isn't a fix or something you have to send back I'm probably going to consider going back to the phantom 3 pro like I had or get the p4.

I'm hopefully sending mine back for replacement as it should not do this

 

[razors]

Have you tried a different SD card?

 

[halley]

A few things here.

One, YouTube is only showing 1080p footage so far. If you shot higher resolution then it hasn't processed yet.

Two, you're under-exposed. The whites should look white, or in the sunset, it should be a strong copper color. Everything here is muddy brown with the occasional olive green peeking in. This leads me to believe...

Three, a lot of very early advice videos suggest everyone should OBVIOUSLY be using nothing but the super duper professional "D Log" profile and crank down the brightness and saturation even more. They say you want to have a lot of leeway to push the color around in your fancy color grading post-processing routine. This advice may be great for other cameras but it is horrible advice for the Mavic's tiny shallow sensor.

If you shoot in D Log on the Mavic, you are assigning way too few bits of information to capturing fine hue distinctions. This leads to color quantization when you amplify the hue or the brightness later. Color quantization is when you have to draw a picture with too few crayons-- sometimes you gotta pick "burnt umber" and sometimes you gotta pick "antique brick" but you know that neither one of them are the color you want. If you grind down the sharpness and saturation even farther, it just amplifies the problem. Scrap D Log and go for D Cinelike or another profile with a more full gamut.

Four, similar common advice is to grind down the sharpness. This just gives the video compression routines too much leeway to replace your trees and other details with rough approximations and watercolors that wander around as you fly past. You want some sharpness to hold the video compressors accountable to the details you see. If you shoot sharp you can use a powerful desktop computer to soften it nicely. If you shoot mushy, there isn't much you can do with the best super-computers out there. ENHANCE! only works on crime television shows.

 

[razors]

It does the same thing in auto mode
D cinelike
Art
And style none

Ie 0 0 0

Original footage off the SD card is the same artifacting

 

[soflo]

im using the same SD as DJI sent with it.. and if im going to try and shoot video in auto mode and see what happens. if nothing changes im going back to the p3p.

 

[razors]

Same card as attached file ?

 

[Strafe1]

A few things here.

One, YouTube is only showing 1080p footage so far. If you shot higher resolution then it hasn't processed yet.

Two, you're under-exposed. The whites should look white, or in the sunset, it should be a strong copper color. Everything here is muddy brown with the occasional olive green peeking in. This leads me to believe...

Three, a lot of very early advice videos suggest everyone should OBVIOUSLY be using nothing but the super duper professional "D Log" profile and crank down the brightness and saturation even more. They say you want to have a lot of leeway to push the color around in your fancy color grading post-processing routine. This advice may be great for other cameras but it is horrible advice for the Mavic's tiny shallow sensor.

If you shoot in D Log on the Mavic, you are assigning way too few bits of information to capturing fine hue distinctions. This leads to color quantization when you amplify the hue or the brightness later. Color quantization is when you have to draw a picture with too few crayons-- sometimes you gotta pick "burnt umber" and sometimes you gotta pick "antique brick" but you know that neither one of them are the color you want. If you grind down the sharpness and saturation even farther, it just amplifies the problem. Scrap D Log and go for D Cinelike or another profile with a more full gamut.

Four, similar common advice is to grind down the sharpness. This just gives the video compression routines too much leeway to replace your trees and other details with rough approximations and watercolors that wander around as you fly past. You want some sharpness to hold the video compressors accountable to the details you see. If you shoot sharp you can use a powerful desktop computer to soften it nicely. If you shoot mushy, there isn't much you can do with the best super-computers out there. ENHANCE! only works on crime television shows.

This sounds like very sound advice!

 

[Fonejacker]

A few things here.

One, YouTube is only showing 1080p footage so far. If you shot higher resolution then it hasn't processed yet.

Two, you're under-exposed. The whites should look white, or in the sunset, it should be a strong copper color. Everything here is muddy brown with the occasional olive green peeking in. This leads me to believe...

Three, a lot of very early advice videos suggest everyone should OBVIOUSLY be using nothing but the super duper professional "D Log" profile and crank down the brightness and saturation even more. They say you want to have a lot of leeway to push the color around in your fancy color grading post-processing routine. This advice may be great for other cameras but it is horrible advice for the Mavic's tiny shallow sensor.

If you shoot in D Log on the Mavic, you are assigning way too few bits of information to capturing fine hue distinctions. This leads to color quantization when you amplify the hue or the brightness later. Color quantization is when you have to draw a picture with too few crayons-- sometimes you gotta pick "burnt umber" and sometimes you gotta pick "antique brick" but you know that neither one of them are the color you want. If you grind down the sharpness and saturation even farther, it just amplifies the problem. Scrap D Log and go for D Cinelike or another profile with a more full gamut.

Four, similar common advice is to grind down the sharpness. This just gives the video compression routines too much leeway to replace your trees and other details with rough approximations and watercolors that wander around as you fly past. You want some sharpness to hold the video compressors accountable to the details you see. If you shoot sharp you can use a powerful desktop computer to soften it nicely. If you shoot mushy, there isn't much you can do with the best super-computers out there. ENHANCE! only works on crime television shows.

What's your settings


Sent from my iPhone using MavicPilots

 

[Idmenzies]

I think your shutter speed is too high for 24 fps 4k....maybe consider nd filters or at least try 30fps.

Cheers

Iain


Sent from my iPad using MavicPilots

 

[soflo]

I got an offer for $1,150 from a guy here locally. I may take his offer and get either the p3p and wait for the phantom 5 or settle with the p3p.

 

[Shuttershooter]

hey y'all what's up Brandon here from south Florida. So I attempted to capture some video footage with my Mavic just the other day, and I noticed that there was some starter or weird blinking movements in my video. Now I'm not sure if it's the cello effect because I seeing the Jell-O affect on YouTube and mine is not that bad in any way. I was shooting in manual mode which I am new at doing because I usually shoot auto, but my shutter speed was about 800, 1000, or 1200. With ISO at 100.

Now is this because I have my shutter speed so high? And no ND filters or what? I uploaded it on YouTube so you can see what I'm talking about. The first time it happened in the video was around 36-40 seconds in. On my phone it doesn't appear to look bad.. only on the computers.

Your help is much appreciated. I'm just wondering if this is a camera setting issue or it's faulty.

This is definitely from too high a shutter speed. ND filters is your cure! You want your shutter speed around double your frame rate.

 

[Fleek]

im using the same SD as DJI sent with it.. and if im going to try and shoot video in auto mode and see what happens. if nothing changes im going back to the p3p.

When I use DJI app to download video to iPhone or iPad, quality is good. I can then airdrop video to iMac & quality is good. BUT when I use SD card to transfer to iMac, video quality is jerky, twinkly, jittery...horrible. Same problem when I transfer directly from Mavic to iMac.
Why is it doing this??? So frustrating but just glad I do have option for correcting the quality issue.