Hello everybody .! After a lot of research from YouTube of how to set the video recording and photo , today I have found that theory wasn't applied in practice . With all that simple but important rules (ISO 100, shutter speed 2X frame rate , WB not none, ND filter ...) , I could't obtain that ideal Ev of +/- 0.7 maximum . The ,,zebra'' on my display was proeminent with optimum parameters , I mean ISO 100 and SS=50 with 4K 25 FPS. When I move the back right wheel of my RC , .........
Before I respond ill should let you know that I come from a still photo background of some 60 years off and on. My first camera was a box brownie. Basically a box with a fixed lens, one shutter speed and a couple of aperture sizes. From that I progressed to a 620 folding camera, 4 x 5, 2.25 square, 35 mm, and digital with all the bells and whistles.
What I learnt with those early cameras is still valid today, especially as manufacturers of action and light weight cameras opt for a fixed lens and fixed aperture.
With film cameras one had a choice of film types, the manufacturers supplied various speeds and colour characteristics. The "faster" the film the more pronounced the grain and with colour film, a decrease in saturation with some processes.
A digital camera has a sensor that converts the light to a voltage, much the same as the solar cells on the roof. The sensitivity of the sensor is the lowest ISO setting in the camera. An amplifier is used to increase the voltage from the sensor to obtain the higher ISOs, this introduces noise. The higher the gain (ISO) the greater the noise. These amplifiers are getting better but a noiseless amplifier hasn't been built.
The zebra stripes should be set so that they show a little before the sensor output is maximum ( white ) as once the output is at maximum you get clipping and lose information.
A film has dynamic range, this is the maximum and minimum amount of light that it will register. Similarly the sensor in a digital camera has it, however it may not be linear.
Clarkvision has the results of some tests.
What does all this mean?
There is no such thing as the perfect exposure for all conditions. The change in the amount of reflected light from the sunny sky and the ground shadows is greater than the sensor can handle. You need to look at ways to minimise the amount of change. Clouds are softboxes, they soften ground shadows. If you want sky and ground, try flying around dawn and dusk.
Try setting your Mavic on a firm surface, say a fence, set your frame rate to 25 and shutter to 1/50 use whatever ISO you need and film a car travelling down a road. Set the shutter speed to 1/500, ISO as required and do it again.
Have a look at the individual frames from each video.
Lastly, photography is a creative process, learn the basics about exposure and composition and use that to create your vision.
