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color shift while rotating gimbal up

jojonono

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2018
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Age
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i noticed this behavior twice in both my late air 2s and brand new air 3s
once in desert
and again in sea

when the gimbal is looking down 90 degree colors look saturated properly
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and while rotating the gimbal up slowly picture start loosing saturation and look flat,

also the entire day when ALL AUTO and shooting mid sea/ocean picture did indeed look flat despite shooting in normal profile, it was only when i rotated gimbal down pix looked properly saturated

that day was very humid and completely cloudy, any idea how to fix that and what caused it ? for my knowledge and future trials...


thanks,
 
It's a contrast issue. White on a dark blue background vs. white against a gray flat horizon. White on white will never be saturated because there is no color. Find a more colorful boat, and don't shoot against a horizon without any color.
 
i noticed this behavior twice in both my late air 2s and brand new air 3s
once in desert
and again in sea

when the gimbal is looking down 90 degree colors look saturated properly
To view this content we will need your consent to set third party cookies.
For more detailed information, see our cookies page.
and while rotating the gimbal up slowly picture start loosing saturation and look flat,

also the entire day when ALL AUTO and shooting mid sea/ocean picture did indeed look flat despite shooting in normal profile, it was only when i rotated gimbal down pix looked properly saturated

that day was very humid and completely cloudy, any idea how to fix that and what caused it ? for my knowledge and future trials...


thanks,
There are a couple of things at work here:

Firstly, with the camera in nadir position (pointing straight down) the only light source is behind the camera (the sky) so you'll get a perfect exposure. Pan the camera up: and the auto exposure alters the E.V. if it's a bright day: the image will look washed out and over exposed compared to the nadir shot. It will be ETTR (Exposed To The Right).

Secondly, during the early months of the year, how available light passes through the lens is different - this is down to the Albedo effect. In essence: the sun is lower to the horizon and as light hits an object, it is reflected back into the lens (the eye or the camera sensor) at a much shallower angle. You see the same effect if you shoot with head-on fill flash - the light is bounced off the object straight back into the lens and the result is harsh lighting and partial over exposure.
 
There are a couple of things at work here:

Firstly, with the camera in nadir position (pointing straight down) the only light source is behind the camera (the sky) so you'll get a perfect exposure. Pan the camera up: and the auto exposure alters the E.V. if it's a bright day: the image will look washed out and over exposed compared to the nadir shot. It will be ETTR (Exposed To The Right).

Secondly, during the early months of the year, how available light passes through the lens is different - this is down to the Albedo effect. In essence: the sun is lower to the horizon and as light hits an object, it is reflected back into the lens (the eye or the camera sensor) at a much shallower angle. You see the same effect if you shoot with head-on fill flash - the light is bounced off the object straight back into the lens and the result is harsh lighting and partial over exposure.
Now that we understand the cause, how would you best recommend that he "fix" the problem?
 
Now that we understand the cause, how would you best recommend that he "fix" the problem?
I wouldn't presume to lecture. I'm sure the O/P is savvy enough to work out a compromise once what's causing the problem is pointed out. If Jojonono wants my thoughts on a workaround for a common problem - I'm sure it will be asked for.
 

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