Couldn't get proper exposure with closed aperture (F11)

[Black Diesel]

All,

I had a chance to take my new M2P out for a quick test flight. In M mode, ISO 100, 24fps, shutter speed 1/60th, and F11 it was still way overexposed. It was done in bright daylight, but I still thought i would be able to get proper exposure by closing the aperture to F11. I've seen so man people say you don't need ND's for M2P because of aperture control. Do I have something setup wrong?

BTW, I meant to say "small" aperture...obviously it wasn't closed.

 

[AeroMirage]

Yes, in very bright light filters will still be needed. I have seen a few videos on youtube about this.

 

[Black Diesel]

Yeah, I figured I need an ND16 still to shoot at the settings above but at f/5.6. I'm headed out of town with it but no one has the ND filters in stock yet, so I'm screwed.

 

[Davzone]

Me too. My vacation starts tomorrow with no ND filters.
Polar Pro only available on the 22nd, my flight back is the 24th so no luck.
Only option is raising the shutter speed for now.

 

[Goof]

ND filters are still a must, though you do get a bit more leeway without them now.

Be wary of shooting with the aperture stopped right down, on most drones it's causing significant diffraction blurring, especially in the corners.

 

[4wd]

IMO this shutterspeed 'rule' is given way too much importance and it doesn't matter much if you just leave it on auto.
Not to say that ideally NDs would be used, but in most scenes you'd be hard pushed to see much difference with faster shutter. In the days of film it was probably more of an issue.

NDs are not without some impact of their own, even a really good one is an extra layer of glass which will introduce a slight degradation and in some circumstances even defraction and refelction flares.

 

[Goof]

One thing that does happen if you run a faster shutter is the motion of the ground can badly stutter, nauseatingly so in a lot of cases. Easy enough to just pan the camera up a little so the relative motion of the ground through the frame isn't as high.

If you do need to capture footage with the gimbal down though you don't have too many options. Either fly at a painfully slow speed, slow the shutter or hope that you can add motion blur after the fact without completely destroying the footage.

 

[gnirtS]

f/11 is going to produce a horrible image too. Diffraction eats the sharpness by that stage.

Realistically usable is about f/2.8 to f/8. That gives you 3 stops of adjustment. If its bright you might want a 2 or 4 stop ND on top if you insist on the 180 degree rule.

That said, a lot of people overdo the "rule". Unless you're doing close and fast (ie a lot of motion) then it simply isnt needed. High altitude, slow cinematic pans etc the 180 rule is pointless as it wont be seen on shots.

 

[arcticfrost]

Are you filming or taking pictures? You would normally want the shutter speed to be 24 for the most pleasing-to-the-eye motion blur when filming then adjust the iso and aperture. You won’t always be able to go that low but if you can stay under 120th of a second it helps keep some of that blur without being too sharp. If it’s still too bright then you’ll need a set of ND filters.