Crisper, Sharper Photos?????

[Knight48]

What about a polarizing filter too for some color before post.
But yeh , get that ISO as Low as you can

 

[Vic Moss]

I'm a commercial photographer for 30+ years. I teach photography as well.

RAW is better than .jpg, 100% of the time. But, sometimes .jpg is good enough. It's not always worth the extra time to process and correct imagery. Real Estate comes to mind when .jpg is good enough.

As others have mentioned, ND filters are rarely needed for stills. The only time you need it is if you want to get a blur and slow down traffic or water, or something else you want blurred. You also want to use them for panning or follow focus shots.

Learn to use your histogram, and learn about the exposure triangle. Don't rely on auto exposure or auto white balance. Those will get you close the vast majority of the time, but will also leave you hurting many times too.

 

[Meta4]

What about a polarizing filter too for some color before post.

The polariser is more trouble than it's worth on a drone.
Unless you only want to fly in one direction, leave it off.

 

[Mark_RPM]

Aster, I am also a licensed real estate agent, work for a real estate photography company and have my 107 remote pilots license. I think those photos look sharp enough, especially for the MLS. Just perhaps give them a little more "pop" in Lightroom. Here are a couple of photos I shot with my Mavic 2 Pro yesterday, .jpg with all factory settings. Agent was very happy with them.

 

[deltamike]

If its any help then see HERE

 

[emvision]

In LR, you have a number of sharpening options- 1. Sharpening, it's in the Detail tab 2 - Texture - it's in the Basic tab, along with Clarity and Dehaze. There are no "ideal" settings for these adjustments, just use the scope feature and adjust to taste. Also, and don't quote me on this, but I have noticed that when in the Develop module, my images look "soft", but when in the Library module, they look great. Oh, and there are a bazillion free LR tutorials on Youtube. My 2 cents.

 

[offtheback]

In LR, you have a number of sharpening options- 1. Sharpening, it's in the Detail tab 2 - Texture - it's in the Basic tab, along with Clarity and Dehaze. There are no "ideal" settings for these adjustments, just use the scope feature and adjust to taste. Also, and don't quote me on this, but I have noticed that when in the Develop module, my images look "soft", but when in the Library module, they look great. Oh, and there are a bazillion free LR tutorials on Youtube. My 2 cents.

The library mode vs develop mode sounds odd.I just checked a few of mine and they are equal.When I toggle back and forth between library and develop it takes a split-1/5 sec?-to look same as library.When I toggle from develop to library it's instant.Lots of discussion on the web.

Image in Lightroom Develop Module looks dramatically different than image in Library module or exported image. How do I fix this?

Forgive me, I know this has been discussed at length, but (partly due to my ineptitude) I'm unable to figure it out. My issue is: I work on an image in the develop module and when I become satisfied with it, I export it. The exported image loses clarity and becomes lighter. I am exporting the...

community.adobe.com

 

[Dale D]

Here is another pic

I would recommend always shooting in RAW to capture every bit of detail in shadows and highlights. Also, use (activate) your HISTOGRAM and shoot "to the right" which means, try to keep the histogram curve more to the right. If you don't do that you will loose unrecoverable details in the highlights. In RAW and Lightroom, the sliders on the right can be adjusted to bring out the details, sharpen, details in the shadow. For example this image is too dark in the shadows. That is because the sensor reads the light from the sky. To open the shadows, use the shadows slider, pull down the highlights and the white. Another way to open the shadows and tone dow the over bright clouds and sky would be to use the graduated filter in Lightroom. See my diagram.

Notice the circle around the graduated image filter. Click that, then you can drag from top down, and from bottom up to activate the graduation in that area. For the sky, drag down, then, use the exposure slides and highlights and white slider to bring them down to give more accentuation of the clouds. For the house, close the graduated filter (click on it or hit enter key). Then reactivate it (click it) and drag from bottom to incorporate the house Then open the shadows of the house. See the lines on the image? They are to show you where the actions begin.

Hope this helps.Good luck. My image is brighter in the house than yours.

Dale

 

[cyeung]

Potentially echoing what others have said, heres what I would do:

1. Replace the ND10K filter with a CPL filter.
2. Stay at ISO 100 as much as practicable.
3. Avoid closing the aperture any further than f/5.6 to avoid diffraction (see below video for a subjective test).
4. Shoot in RAW as often as practicable.
5. Verify focus before shooting. My autofocus is only shortly before shooting.

If you send me a RAW file, I would be glad to edit it in the way I would and send a JPG back.

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[EricJT]

I shoot in aperture priority (f4), not auto, ISO100, manually set white balance, manual focus using focus peaking (threshold).

I have shot with DSLR's for a decade so I am comfortable with all of these parameters.

 

[offtheback]

I shoot in aperture priority (f4), not auto, ISO100, manually set white balance, manual focus using focus peaking (threshold).

I have shot with DSLR's for a decade so I am comfortable with all of these parameters.

I have used AWB for a while but your post got me thinking.Often even a fairly dimmed sun image is a yellow that looks unnatural.Takes a bit of editing to make it right.I'll try sunny or daylight next.The Olympus I shoot with does great in AWB.

 

[EricJT]

I have used AWB for a while but your post got me thinking.Often even a fairly dimmed sun image is a yellow that looks unnatural.Takes a bit of editing to make it right.I'll try sunny or daylight next.The Olympus I shoot with does great in AWB.

I shoot both JPEG and RAW (DNG) when using my M2P and DSLR's, but since I cannot correct white balance in JPEG as easily as in RAW, I set the white balance manually.

My winter indoor hobby of macro photography got me into the habit of setting the white balance (Kelvin) depending on my light source....but then again, manipulating the white balance in RAW is simple. Just my workflow habits, I suppose.