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Exposure value setting..

Cerberus

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I'm not sure this has anything to do with the newest firmware or not but..

Setting my video settings to manual, my EV seems to be locked on crazy settings..

Outdoors, the EV became +2 and even when I set the ISO to 100, the video was completely blown white out.

indoors, the EV becomes -2 and the room becomes as dark as my grandma's attic.

What gives...?

scrolling the right wheel changes my shutter speed and I can't find a way to change the EV..
Am I missing something?
 
You don't dial an EV directly.

The EV number shown is the camera's estimate as to how "on target" your exposure is. Blown out at +2 or blacked out at -2 is exactly what you would expect. (It may actually be more than +2 or lower than -2, but that's as far as it shows numerically.)

If you dial the shutter speed up or down, it will move the exposure, and indirectly moves the EV number you see. Dial a shutter speed that brings EV to +0, to center the exposure to the middle of the exposure range.

You can see this effect clearly if you also bring up a histogram view.
 
You don't dial an EV directly.

The EV number shown is the camera's estimate as to how "on target" your exposure is. Blown out at +2 or blacked out at -2 is exactly what you would expect. (It may actually be more than +2 or lower than -2, but that's as far as it shows numerically.)

If you dial the shutter speed up or down, it will move the exposure, and indirectly moves the EV number you see. Dial a shutter speed that brings EV to +0, to center the exposure to the middle of the exposure range.

You can see this effect clearly if you also bring up a histogram view.

Problem is I keep my shutter speed at only twice that of the FPS, so having the EV change only when I change the shutter speed is kinda out of the point since I want to keep the shutter speed at where I left it..

Anyone else have this problem with Manual mode? I'm pretty sure I don;t have this EV going over exposed and under exposed before I updated the newest firmware
 
You can't realistically always have shutter at 2x FPS for the reasons outlined.
The only ways to change exposure are shutter, ISO (usually best on 100) and adding ND filters.
It is inevitable that shutter will need changing from 'optimum' to get eposure near 0.0, because the aperture is fixed on this canera same as (e.g.) gopro
 
Problem is I keep my shutter speed at only twice that of the FPS, so having the EV change only when I change the shutter speed is kinda out of the point since I want to keep the shutter speed at where I left it..

Anyone else have this problem with Manual mode? I'm pretty sure I don;t have this EV going over exposed and under exposed before I updated the newest firmware
EV was never changeable in manual mode.
 
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You don't dial an EV directly.

The EV number shown is the camera's estimate as to how "on target" your exposure is. Blown out at +2 or blacked out at -2 is exactly what you would expect. (It may actually be more than +2 or lower than -2, but that's as far as it shows numerically.)

If you dial the shutter speed up or down, it will move the exposure, and indirectly moves the EV number you see. Dial a shutter speed that brings EV to +0, to center the exposure to the middle of the exposure range.

You can see this effect clearly if you also bring up a histogram view.


What exactly am I changing on the dial? The ISO? What is the value that I see change when the EV changes as I put my thumb on the dial?
 
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My guess is that you usually shoot in auto mode, but you camera is now set to manual mode.

Auto mode will keep EV at 0 by automatically adjusting the shutter speed.

Setting the the shutter to 2x frame rate in manual on a bright day without ND filters will over expose the image, hence the +2ev you are seeing.
 
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I'm not sure this has anything to do with the newest firmware or not but..

Setting my video settings to manual, my EV seems to be locked on crazy settings..

Outdoors, the EV became +2 and even when I set the ISO to 100, the video was completely blown white out.

indoors, the EV becomes -2 and the room becomes as dark as my grandma's attic.

What gives...?

scrolling the right wheel changes my shutter speed and I can't find a way to change the EV..
Am I missing something?

I am sometimes also surprised that when I switch to manually, the screen will go completely black. Most of the time, you'll see that it says -2.0 at EV.
I auto mode, the system remembers your EV correction value. However, in manual mode, the system remembers the actual camera settings (That is: ISO and Shutter speed). Depending on the lighting conditions when you switch to manual mode compared to those when you had it in manual mode the last time, this may yield a completely over- or underexposed scene. It seems that the EV value that is displayed in manual mode is an indication of the system whether the scene is over- or underexposed, rather than a setting, which it is in auto mode.

Summarizing:
Auto mode: you control the exposure correction (EV) and the system executes this by modifying ISO and shutter speed.
Manual mode: you control ISO and Shutter speed, and the system tells you whether this yields a "correctly" exposed scene.
 
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Hello everybody! I know my question is related to this subject , but excuse me if it is formulated by a newbie...What have I to do in order that my Mavic camera to adjust ITSELF to the brightness level of what I am recording ? (for ex sudden movement from the sky to the ground?).Thank you
 
The EV value in manual mode is the camera's way of telling you how over/under exposed you are at the current setting, which is a combination of shutter speed and ISO value. For positive EV value (and a very bright or washed-out scene): decrease ISO, or increase shutter speed, or both. Do the opposite if you have a negative EV value.

Thank goodness the Mavic has a fixed aperture. :D
 

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