Having issues with Video Quality - choppy playback, banding

[ajcast5201]

I just bought a DJI Mavic Pro (upgraded from the Spark) and I've been having issues with the video playback.

1. Flickering/Juttering Video - I did some research and I tried to maintain a shutter speed of 2x the FPS (I used 1/60 for 4k30), but when I try that, it lets in way too much light. What settings are recommended for shooting in 4k30?

2. Banding - I've also noticed banding in some instances (especially when it's bright outside). The drone has carbon fiber propellers so I'm hoping it's prop shadows, but with all the other issues I've been having, I just don't know.

Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance!!

 

[Danr-62]

Did you try it without the carbon fiber props, same result using the stock props?

 

[ajcast5201]

Did you try it without the carbon fiber props, same result using the stock props?

I bought it used and it came with just the Carbon Fiber props. I ordered a replacement pair on Amazon and will test it out.

I took it out today after reading through some helpful posts on this site.

I flew today and filmed in 2k (both 24 and 30 fps), with manual white balance and I adjusted the shutter speed until the M.M. was at 0.0. Also set it to D-Cinelike. reading was at 0.0. The 2k30 film was better but the 2k24 was still choppy. The banding was still there in certain positions.

I've been reading about ND filters and it seems that is the only way to do 1/60 at 30fps. Am I correct?

Thanks!

 

[MAvic_South_Oz]

I've been reading about ND filters and it seems that is the only way to do 1/60 at 30fps. Am I correct?

This could be, it's about the only way to get shutter near right amount on the M1P.
I would think about going back to the 8330 standard props, or at least going with the 8331 platinum model props.

The 8331 props are very good on the M1P, even though the MPP is tuned for them, motor ESC is a little different to the M1P.
I have the 8331 props on, it is quieter, and I don't have issue with gimbal vibration like some have reported (can be adjusted out with gain settings).

I don't change much on my M1P, just set 100 iso, daylight, and shoot auto, can't even remember what setting for grade of video, could be vivid.
I use plain ND filters and seem to get it close guessing to general conditions on flights.

The banding ?
An example via YouTube link would be good, but it could be prop shadows if you get this is some directions only, very common and it's probably best to try and shoot video / photos with sun behind the drone.

 

[Thomas B]

Could you post an example video? That would help.

also what display/computer are you playing the described video on when you see the banding?

 

[ajcast5201]

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I've uploaded a video from yesterday. I feel I was able to resolve most of my issues except for the banding, which you can see at around 35 seconds and towards the end of the video. Shot at 2k30, using a set white balance and D-Cinelike, -1,0,0.

My next steps are going to be changing the props and investing in some ND filters. It seems I also need to learn about color correction and grading, something I didn't really sorry about with the Spark.

 

[DanMan32]

That looks like the jello effect common on Phantoms. The prop shadow is getting into the camera and if the light chopping from the props matches a multiple of the frame rate, you'll get that. ND filters should help with getting shutter speed around 2x frame rate.

 

[ajcast5201]

That's what I'm hoping for. Thanks for the quick reply! Do you think just changing the props would improve it? The carbon fiber props are reflective.

 

[DanMan32]

Doubt it. Props aren't transparent. They'll still cast strobing shadow.

 

[ajcast5201]

Ok gotcha. I never had this issue with the spark and I used it quite a bit in similar environments. I'm guessing it's because of me setting the shutter speed manually on the Mavic Pro and choosing a frame rate that didn't jive well either prop RPMs.

 

[FoxhallGH]

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I've uploaded a video from yesterday. I feel I was able to resolve most of my issues except for the banding, which you can see at around 35 seconds and towards the end of the video. Shot at 2k30, using a set white balance and D-Cinelike, -1,0,0.

My next steps are going to be changing the props and investing in some ND filters. It seems I also need to learn about color correction and grading, something I didn't really sorry about with the Spark.

It's obvious in your posted video that the effect happens when you turn toward the sun, with the sun just to the left or right of the frame ... So it is something to do with prop-shadow or reflection (as suggested above by DanMan32).
In regard to the Carbon Fibre prop's - there has been literally 'miles' of postings regarding the pro's and con's of 3rd party props'. I have used CF prop's, and although they are very reactive and quiet compared to DJI stock, they are 'harder' for the motors to turn and therefore will eat your battery faster. My personal preference is for the 'Master Airscrew' Stealth prop's - designed specifically for the Mavic Pro. They are quiet, and due to the superb design, will also fly on lower rpm giving a longer flight duration. In essence, the CF prop's are a bit like hard 'shocks' on a car. Good for performance, but very little ability to smooth out the bumps in the road ...

 

[ajcast5201]

It's obvious in your posted video that the effect happens when you turn toward the sun, with the sun just to the left or right of the frame ... So it is something to do with prop-shadow or reflection (as suggested above by DanMan32).
In regard to the Carbon Fibre prop's - there has been literally 'miles' of postings regarding the pro's and con's of 3rd party props'. I have used CF prop's, and although they are very reactive and quiet compared to DJI stock, they are 'harder' for the motors to turn and therefore will eat your battery faster. My personal preference is for the 'Master Airscrew' Stealth prop's - designed specifically for the Mavic Pro. They are quiet, and due to the superb design, will also fly on lower rpm giving a longer flight duration. In essence, the CF prop's are a bit like hard 'shocks' on a car. Good for performance, but very little ability to smooth out the bumps in the road ...

Thank you. That metaphor makes a lot of sense.

 

[DanMan32]

Jello was common for Phantom series due to placement of props and gimbal/camera, but not too many complaints for Mavic series.

 

[ajcast5201]

Jello was common for Phantom series due to placement of props and gimbal/camera, but not too many complaints for Mavic series.

I'll just have to hope that the new props and the filters help out with the quality, since I bought used and I believe the drone is out of the warranty period. I will post an update as soon as possible. Might not be able to fly again until mid week.

 

[Smokieflies]

They also make sunshades for the M1P that help reduce the shadow's being cast by the props. Might want to look at one of those.

 

[ajcast5201]

They also make sunshades for the M1P that help reduce the shadow's being cast by the props. Might want to look at one of those.

Interesting. I will have to take a look into that. I appreciate everyone's help so far. I was worried that my drone was defective but it seems like it's been user error/learning curve issues.

 

[MAvic_South_Oz]

I was able to resolve most of my issues except for the banding, which you can see at around 35 seconds and towards the end of the video.

Props, no doubt, props themselves or shadows.

You can see them from 0:19, when you yaw a little left towards the sun (on the left) at around 0:35 the shadows really come out..
Same thing around 3:20, and at the end as you noted.

I would seriously ditch the CF props, get 8330 std M1P props, or 8331 platinum model props.
I never see my props, and only the shadows at similar times you would.

Most will just video a direction, fly where vision is affected without concern, then edit out.
Eg. Can't avoid return flight, but just edit out all the sun flare from 4:20 flying back into the sun.
That or fly as you like very early (late) light during blue / golden hours.

ND filters will serve you very well with the M1P, especially in that sort of region / time of day flying.
Keep iso low 100, 200, use filters to get shutter 2x frame, 24fps / 1/50 or 30fps / 1/60.
Experiment with video modes, I don't edit much or grade at all and really just keep it normal or one of the vivid options.

 

[dsops]

The "banding" is easy to reproduce with MavicPro and may happen often when the sun is down enough. Each optical system produces flare. Flare is an internal reflexion between the lens, when the light source is in front of the lens (not only if you can see it in the picture). Flares reduce contrast and create ghost light in the picture. When a front propeller is between the lens and the light source (sun), it stops the incident lighting (like a lens hood) and cuts the flare off. This is the "banding": horizontal image slices with no flare, so better contrast and colors. Flare may happen with any cheap lens. I cannot imagine a drone design where this can be avoided. You can see the flare in the device and find positions to avoid it. You should also check if the lens is perfectly clean (clean it only with photo specialized kits, not with glasses cleaners). Finger spots or other dust makes the flare more intense.

 

[MAvic_South_Oz]

I cannot imagine a drone design where this can be avoided.

No it is difficult to avoid, but easy to work around once you know when this occurs, and then edit out what does come up.

The lens hood suggestion might be worth a look, though I have seen posts / videos where parts of lens hoods can be seen in certain flight conditions (attitude in wind, flying fast, turning fast etc), but some have just trimmed out parts of the hood opening to defeat this (dremel with sanding disk), while still keeping most of the shading from various angles.

 

[dsops]

Tried some lens hoods, they appear in the picture / video in some circumstances. Better will be a lens hood mounted directly on the lens, as the filters, but I'm not sure if this support winds / speed. So, no other solution than do not shoot with the sun in front of the camera.