HDR vs AEB

[Dan C]

Point conceded.

gnirtS leads 15 - love.

 

[carlosdivega]

Hi, yes it's correct that the AEB differnce is only 0.7ev, but with 5 pics and dialing in an overexposer of + 1 EV I'm getting most of the time excellent pictures after processing them in PS CC with the NIK HDR extension.

Söderskär
by Karl K, on Flickr

 

[Paul2660]

Exposure ≠ Aperture ≠ ISO. All of those things can change how much light you capture, but only changing shutter speed is Exposure Bracketing.

Sure, you can take a series of photos with different ISO settings (and everything else the same), and each will vary in brightness, and you can call it bracketing, but it isn't EB and neither is changing aperture.

The only time you would use exposure bracketing with moving objects is if you specifically WANT motion blur. It can be quite interesting an effect.

But "bracketing" means there will be multiple shots taken, thus time will go by, thus any method you use will have issues with moving objects.

In any case, unless I'm entirely mistaken, this is all moot. AEB on the DJI drones uses shutter speed to alter EV by steps of ± 0.7.

You can get a max range of -1.34 to +1`.34 with a 5 stop AEB due to the .7 max of exposure step. I have asked DJI numerous times to allow 1.0 per stop, but it falls on deaf and stupid non understanding ears. Just like they don't get why you would want to use AEB in pano mode.
They are focused on video and still photography is distance 2nd. Not allowing 1.0 stops per bracket is just crazy as that's now the standard on all cameras, some even as much as 2 stops.

Sure if you are bracketing a series of 1" to 20 second exposure, anything moveing, cars, trains, etc. branches, limbs of trees. all will be blurred. But if you are bracketing a series starting at 1/640, you slowest will be around 1/120, nothing moving should be blurred. Even trees blowing in the wind unless you are working in 30 mph winds. With longer exposures, 1" and out, it's for me very hit and miss with the M2 Pro. you can get 2 images sharp, 3 blurred (due to movement of the drone, not subject). But it still can produce a very nice image.

The real key for me, stay at ISO 100, the sensor, which is in most of the RX100 Sony cameras, should be good up to around ISO800, but IMO it's pretty bad past 200. So stretch the shutter speed, open the aperture and stay at 100.

Also, expose to the right, allowing your highlights a bit more room. The sensor can take more pull down in highlights than push in shadows.

Most shots I take in sunsets or sunrise, will need 10 shots, so 2 sets of AEB. This gets very tricky as the M2 Pro will at times slightly yaw between AEB series, nothing like the P4 vr 2.0 (which requires stick pressure to hold it in place). The M2 Pro shots align quickly in CC.

Paul Caldwell

 

[Dan C]

You can get a max range of -1.34 to +1`.34 with a 5 stop AEB due to the .7 max of exposure step. I have asked DJI numerous times to allow 1.0 per stop, but it falls on deaf and stupid non understanding ears. Just like they don't get why you would want to use AEB in pano mode.
They are focused on video and still photography is distance 2nd. Not allowing 1.0 stops per bracket is just crazy as that's now the standard on all cameras, some even as much as 2 stops.

Sure if you are bracketing a series of 1" to 20 second exposure, anything moveing, cars, trains, etc. branches, limbs of trees. all will be blurred. But if you are bracketing a series starting at 1/640, you slowest will be around 1/120, nothing moving should be blurred. Even trees blowing in the wind unless you are working in 30 mph winds. With longer exposures, 1" and out, it's for me very hit and miss with the M2 Pro. you can get 2 images sharp, 3 blurred (due to movement of the drone, not subject). But it still can produce a very nice image.

The real key for me, stay at ISO 100, the sensor, which is in most of the RX100 Sony cameras, should be good up to around ISO800, but IMO it's pretty bad past 200. So stretch the shutter speed, open the aperture and stay at 100.

Also, expose to the right, allowing your highlights a bit more room. The sensor can take more pull down in highlights than push in shadows.

Most shots I take in sunsets or sunrise, will need 10 shots, so 2 sets of AEB. This gets very tricky as the M2 Pro will at times slightly yaw between AEB series, nothing like the P4 vr 2.0 (which requires stick pressure to hold it in place). The M2 Pro shots align quickly in CC.

Paul Caldwell

Hey Paul,

That sounds like quite a challenge.

I found it rather curious too. I haven't really tried the photo capability of my Air yet, but in the past I've done a bit of AEB with my Nikon D7000. It's a DX format, and only gives me 3 exposures at 0.7 deviaiton. I've done reasonably well with that.