How to replace my dead RC-N1?

[Inchoate]

I've had a Mini 2 for several years. It sat unused for the past year or so, and when I went to use it again, the controller completely died.
I had it powered up, attempting to connect to the drone, and then it went completely dead. Can't power it up, pushing buttons doesn't do anything. I tried charging it with no affect.
Since it is out of warranty, I'm wondering if my best course of action is to just buy an RC-N1 off Amazon?
If I do purchase one, what is the procedure for linking it with my drone/DJI account?

Any recommendations would be appreciated! Thanks

 

[mavic3usa]

 

[Inchoate]

Thanks! I thought it might be more complicated than that.
I'll put in my order for a new controller.

 

[kevguy]

Thanks! I thought it might be more complicated than that.
I'll put in my order for a new controller.

Recommend the RC controller….assuming it is compatible with the Mini 2.

 

[Yogi053]

Mayb I'm wrong, but I don't think the RC is compatible with the Mini 2.

 

[kevguy]

Mayb I'm wrong, but I don't think the RC is compatible with the Mini 2.

Maybe you are right.

 

[Inchoate]

Maybe you are right.

Yeah, I looked at the RC, but decided to stick with the RC-N1.

I appreciate everybody's thoughts.

 

[Felix le Chat]

Easiest solution is also the cheapest. Scout out a replacement battery assembly (HSABATT on AliExpress). The RCN1 strip down and battery replacement process is well documented on YouTube. Done similar DIY's on my RC1A controllers. I'm a fumble-fingered short-sighted, bad tempered technophobe. If I can do it: it'll be a doddle for you.

 

[Yorkshire_Pud]

Easiest solution is also the cheapest. Scout out a replacement battery assembly (HSABATT on AliExpress). The RCN1 strip down and battery replacement process is well documented on YouTube. Done similar DIY's on my RC1A controllers. I'm a fumble-fingered short-sighted, bad tempered technophobe. If I can do it: it'll be a doddle for you.

With respect, several RC231/RC-N1 have been reported as simply dying.
I have a dead one and its batteries, there are two, are charged.
I've dismantled it and charged the cells via direct connection, it remains dead.
It might be a waste of money and time buying batteries.

 

[Felix le Chat]

Same with one of my RC1A's. After battery replacement, I found out that one of the micro capacitors on the battery board had gone tits-up. No way I'll try a replacement on something THAT small, so I replaced the whole controller core board. Still worked out cheaper than buying a complete replacement from e-bay that would have been second hand and an unknown quantity until I tried booting it up. Good practise though, got me into repairing my own kit and saved me a packet in the process

 

[Yorkshire_Pud]

Same with one of my RC1A's. After battery replacement, I found out that one of the micro capacitors on the battery board had gone tits-up. No way I'll try a replacement on something THAT small, so I replaced the whole controller core board. Still worked out cheaper than buying a complete replacement from e-bay that would have been second hand and an unknown quantity until I tried booting it up. Good practise though, got me into repairing my own kit and saved me a packet in the process

EDITED after I put my glasses on lol

Some of the RC231 threads I have read suggested reflowing one particular chip but I don't have the gear for that.
I am also wondering if the controller has a 'gas gauge' or whatever that switches to isolate if the battery voltage gets too low.

 

[Felix le Chat]

EDITED after I put my glasses on lol

Some of the RC231 threads I have read suggested reflowing one particular chip but I don't have the gear for that.
I am also wondering if the controller has a 'gas gauge' or whatever that switches to isolate if the battery voltage gets too low.

Hmmm.... like the battery management board in the IFB's? I've read about IFB's being run so low they go into 'permanent' hibernation. Apparently the trick is to connect the battery pack to a multi charger and put a trickle charge in at the Ni-Cd setting (which 'wakes' the pack up), then switch to Li-Po and follow the cycle to 100%

 

[Yorkshire_Pud]

IFB ?

As far as I remember I used a multimeter to check the connections of a 'dead' P3 battery whose shell had been removed. The power output/charging terminals were, from memory, isolated from the battery leads. Are we talking about the same thing?

That I know of the 'proper' fix for drone batteries involves some device designed to reset the whatever and some software, one of those or perhaps both is/are expensive. The may be an alternative 'hack' via a small USB device and some flying leads that might be soldered to the battery management board but I don't have the info regard that on this computer.

 

[Felix le Chat]

*IFB*
Intelligent Flight Battery.
I know what you mean about having to reset the chip, just glad I haven't had to try it. The workaround with soldering feed and ground leads from a cobbled together donor pack to swap out the 4 cell dead lipo is good sideways thinking, but a bit on the Frankenstein side... I'd be scared stupid of a short.... especially with a lipo