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Is ND64 filter needed when filming snow on a bright day?

Last edited:
Only if you want grey snow. Add exposure compensation instead.
ND filters don't change colors - hence the word "Neutral" in the name. This was shot with an ND32:
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ND filters don't change colors - hence the word "Neutral" in the name. This was shot with an ND32:
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For more detailed information, see our cookies page.
Of course they don't. Never said that.
A predominately white snow scene will fool the camera into underexposing, resulting in snow that looks grey instead of white. You don't need an ND64 filter to get a slower shutter speed for this circumstance. You need to stick with the ND32 and add exposure compensation which will result in a slower shutter speed.
 
I think I have a polarized ND16 from PolarPro.

In any case, you can contact them and just buy a single filter if you want. In my experience, I found that the ND16 combined with the exposure compensation on the craft covers a wide range of conditions from sunny beach days to bright snow.
 
In any case, you can contact them and just buy a single filter if you want.
No need to hunt down a special contact. They sell individual filters on their website here.
 
I think I have a polarized ND16 from PolarPro.

In any case, you can contact them and just buy a single filter if you want. In my experience, I found that the ND16 combined with the exposure compensation on the craft covers a wide range of conditions from sunny beach days to bright snow.
What do you mean by exposure compensation?
 
Yes you can adjust the EV either by ISO or shutter speed.
 
I am so confused. I thought you couldn't adjust the EV manually on the mavic. The EV is just a measure of the exposure and can only be changed by adjusting the shutter/ISO and or adding a filter?
Also for photos it’s best to use RAW that way you can have the most latitude possible in post.
 
So I should still get a ND64 if I want to film at 1/60th shutter then..
Yes. Since you are working with a camera that has a fixed aperture, the only level of control, once you have decided upon a fixed shutter speed, beyond setting ISO to a low value, is to get the ND filter that gets your exposure where you want it. If ND64 meets that need ~gitter.
 
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Only on the rare occasion that I shoot at mid-day here in LA, have i used my Polar Pro ND64-PL to avoid having some white stucco walls shot head on completely washed out when shooting video at 1080p/30 at 1/60th of a second.

I wanted them to continue to be white when played back on a 1080p HDTV, but I also wanted to avoid the lines of the window frames being washed out, which can happen if the EV for the scene's highlights exceeds +2.0.
 
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Only on the rare occasion that I shoot at mid-day here in LA, have i used my Polar Pro ND64-PL to avoid having some white stucco walls shot head on completely washed out when shooting video at 1080p/30 at 1/60th of a second.

I wanted them to continue to be white when played back on a 1080p HDTV, but I also wanted to avoid the lines of the window frames being washed out, which can happen if the EV for the scene's highlights exceeds +2.0.
When I shot in Cancun I couldn't even film the beach because of how bright it was. I should probably just buy it lol
 
So I should still get a ND64 if I want to film at 1/60th shutter then..

All my filters are ND-PL, which allow a bit more fine tuning than the NDs -- you can vary the amount of polarization, which lightens/darkens the overall scene, by rotating them prior to installing them on the lens.

I generally include lots of sky and clouds in my images -- I love tilting from +30 to -90 and back again with my Mavic Pros -- and the ND-PLs, depending on the angle with the sun, can make a blue sky more intensely blue against any white clouds.
 
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Yes. Since you are working with a camera that has a fixed aperture, the only level of control, once you have decided upon a fixed shutter speed, beyond setting ISO to a low value, is to get the ND filter that gets your exposure where you want it. If ND64 meets that need ~gitter.
Yep.
images.png
 
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All my filters are ND-PL, which allow a bit more fine tuning than the NDs -- you can vary the amount of polarization, which lightens/darkens the overall scene, by rotating them prior to installing them on the lens.

I generally include lots of sky and clouds in my images -- I love tilting from +30 to -90 and back again with my Mavic Pros -- and the ND-PLs, depending on the angle with the sun, can make a blue sky more intensely blue against any white clouds.
Ahh I have the taco-rc. I don't think mine do that
 

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