Is the first image from an AEB set the same as a single image?

[scubaddictions]

I've virtually certain it is, but there may be some hidden detail I'm not considering.....

I find more and more I leave my M2P in 5-shot AEB mode when taking pictures and I usually have plenty of time later to compress them in post. Recently though the thought occurred to me that I don't always have access to my PC and I might want to post a picture directly.

It appears that chronologically, the first image shot in a 5-shot AEB set is the middle exposure. Shots two and three are one step down and up, respectively. Shots four and five are two exposure steps down and up.

Is there any reason to expect that the 1st shot in an AEB set is any different than what would be captured if the camera mode was set to single image rather than AEB?

 

[Unknown Pilot]

The first shot of the series is 0 EV. That doesn't necessarily mean it's the best exposed shot of the bunch though.

 

[scubaddictions]

The first shot of the series is 0 EV. That doesn't necessarily mean it's the best exposed shot of the bunch.

Ahhhh. So if, for example, I had manually bumped the EV to say +1.0 and then took a single shot it would capture at +1.0. If I was in AEB mode then the first shot in the set would not necessarily be the same EV value as the single shot as it always starts with 0 EV. In that example, image 3 in the AEB set would be the same as the single shot.

Other than shifting exposure across the individual images there's no other change? Thanks!

 

[Meta4]

Ahhhh. So if, for example, I had manually bumped the EV to say +1.0 and then took a single shot it would capture at +1.0. If I was in AEB mode then the first shot in the set would not necessarily be the same EV value as the single shot as it always starts with 0 EV. In that example, image 3 in the AEB set would be the same as the single shot.

If you set your exposure compensation to overexpose by 1.0 stops and shoot an AEB 3 bracket the images shot will be +1.0, -0.3, +1.7.

 

[Unknown Pilot]

Ahhhh. So if, for example, I had manually bumped the EV to say +1.0 and then took a single shot it would capture at +1.0. If I was in AEB mode then the first shot in the set would not necessarily be the same EV value as the single shot as it always starts with 0 EV. In that example, image 3 in the AEB set would be the same as the single shot.

Other than shifting exposure across the individual images there's no other change? Thanks!

The first shot will always be the "normal" one. If you've manually set the exposure to +1 that will be the first shot in the series.

Assuming the aperture is fixed the only change across multiple images is exposure.

 

[scubaddictions]

Got it, that makes sense. Thanks again!

 

[GadgetGuy]

Oddly, DJI's AEB bracketing steps are only 0.7 stops each, instead of full stop steps. This limits the usefulness of the DJI's AEB bracketing. Ideally, the 3 stop bracket would include +1 and -1 stops, instead of only +0.7 and -0.7, while the 5 stop bracket would include +2 and -2 stops instead of only +1.4 and -1.4. Given the DNG dynamic recovery range of roughly +2 to -2 stops, instead of a full range of -5 to +5, we only have -3.4 to +3.4 to work with. Shooting the AEB manually solves the problem, but with much greater time and effort, while wasting precious flight time. The best compromise is to set the neutral exposure image compensation on the side of the exposure where you need the greatest recovery.

 

[scubaddictions]

Oddly, DJI's AEB bracketing steps are only 0.7 stops each, instead of full stop steps.

Ahhhh, that does add a wrinkle. Just confirmed with a recent batch of AEB shots, 0.7 stops. Oh well, I'm happy with the final product so at least with my eyes (and monitor) the automated AEB sets work fine. I agree, running through the AEB shots manually would be quite time consuming, especially the way I've been shooting AEB groups to stitch into panos, and my favorite, two row panoramas. 60 or 70 individual images compressed down to 12 to 14 AEB shots, merged into two horizontal panos, then into one final stitched shot. Plus, since I'm usually using that method on sunrises and sunsets the added time manually changing exposure on top of gimbal and drone orientation changes the sky would change too much across the attempt.

 

[cocoon]

Can I use ND filter for AEb shots?

 

[Meta4]

Can I use ND filter for AEb shots?

You could ... but why would you?
The only thing an ND filter will do for you is to force the camera to use a slower shutter speed because it cuts the amount of light getting to the sensor.
Unless you have a particular reason to use a slow shutter speed, there is no reason to use ND filters when shooting stills from a drone.

 

[cocoon]

You could ... but why would you?
The only thing an ND filter will do for you is to force the camera to use a slower shutter speed because it cuts the amount of light getting to the sensor.
Unless you have a particular reason to use a slow shutter speed, there is no reason to use ND filters when shooting stills from a drone.

I am living in the Caribean where the light is very strong, this is why I thought it would be helpful. Am I wrong?

 

[Meta4]

I am living in the Caribean where the light is very strong, this is why I thought it would be helpful. Am I wrong?

Your camera has a top shutter speed of 1/8000th of a second.
That's more than enough to handle the brightest sunlight you'll ever deal with.
There is no need to use ND filters to achieve correct exposure.

 

[cocoon]

Your camera has a top shutter speed of 1/8000th of a second.
That's more than enough to handle the brightest sunlight you'll ever deal with.
There is no need to use ND filters to achieve correct exposure.

Thanks for the advice. So if I well understand the only use of ND filter for drone photography would be for long exposure with ND 1000 for example?

 

[SkyeHigh]

For countries with very bright daylight, such as my home of Australia, an ND filter can help force the camera to use a larger aperture to get the best out of the camera - Mavic 2 and its sweet spot of around f5. I’ve never needed anything more than ND16.

The ND filters are of little use for anything else. Long exposures are possible but remember the drone/camera/position isn’t as stable as a tripod would be for a normal SLR camera.

 

[scubaddictions]

The primary purpose of an ND filter on a drone is to slow shutter speed while shooting video, not while taking stills. Done right, it adds a natural looking motion blur to moving objects in your videos. I've used NDs occasionally for long exposure stills to blur moving water. For still shots, you might have better success with a polarizer rather than an ND filter.

 

[cocoon]

For countries with very bright daylight, such as my home of Australia, an ND filter can help force the camera to use a larger aperture to get the best out of the camera - Mavic 2 and its sweet spot of around f5. I’ve never needed anything more than ND16.

The ND filters are of little use for anything else. Long exposures are possible but remember the drone/camera/position isn’t as stable as a tripod would be for a normal SLR camera.

Thanks for confirmation

 

[Meta4]

For countries with very bright daylight, such as my home of Australia, an ND filter can help force the camera to use a larger aperture to get the best out of the camera - Mavic 2 and its sweet spot of around f5. I’ve never needed anything more than ND16.

Since the camera has a top shutter speed of 1/8000th of a second, there is no reason to use an ND filter to reduce the light getting to the sensor.
Even in Australia, you will never find natural lighting conditions so bright that you would need a faster shutter speed

The only reason to use an ND filter for shooting drone stills is to force the camera to use a slower shutter speed.

 

[cocoon]

Since the camera has a top shutter speed of 1/8000th of a second, there is no reason to use an ND filter to reduce the light getting to the sensor.
Even in Australia, you will never find natural lighting conditions so bright that you would need a faster shutter speed

The only reason to use an ND filter for shooting drone stills is to force the camera to use a slower shutter speed.

Thanks for feedback. And to well understand, what would be the goal, the benefit to force the camera to use a slower shutter speed?

 

[Meta4]

Thanks for feedback. And to well understand, what would be the goal, the benefit to force the camera to use a slower shutter speed?

If you didn't want to freeze motion with a fast shutter speed, and wanted to blur the motion with a slow shutter speed.
The example most commonly given is for moving water, like waterfalls or waves like this:

That's fine on the ground with a heavy tripod to shoot at 15 sec but of limited use on a drone.

But unless you have a particular reason to want to force a slower shutter speed, there is no reason to use ND filters when shooting stills with your drone.
Cutting the amount of light you lose with an ND filter is usually going to make things harder for you rather than improving the image.