I would offer you this advice, go out and experiment yourself. All the other's advice (including mine…) will only go so far, as each photograph you take is unique to you.
The things to consider is lighting: the shutter speed determines how long light can enter the "film", the aperture determines much light can enter.
Think about it like this, you are the door-man at Walmart on Black Friday morning. You can open one or two doors and you get to determine how long the doors stay open. You open one door for 1-minute and 100 people enter; conversely, you open two doors but for only 30-seeconds and still 100 people enter…
It ain't the same, 100 of the first group is not the same group as the second group.
When you open the aperture one full stop, you need to cut the speed in half. When one goes up, the other has to go down…
Now, why isn't the "first group of people like the second group," it "mood" the saturation of the image changes and the photo looks different and only your intent can determine what is better…
Now for the water photos, the flow of the water makes a big difference, a slow bubbling stream can be shot slower than a raging river, if you shot the river at the same speed that is correct for the stream, the fiver would be just one blur and conversely, shooting the stream at the speed for the river would most likely stop all action (no movement).
You can take all the advice that will be given and then put it in your hat and adapt to your situation.
For example, shooting Niagara Falls at a certain speed and aperture may give you a perfect shot, but if you take those same settings and shoot a raging falls in your neck of the woods, with trees and cloud cover, would give you the same effect on the water, but it would be dark and brooding…
So, go out and experiment and when you find the perfect location, shoot a series of photos. It's called "Bracketing", where you shoot and change the settings, open this, close that, speed it up, and slow it down, and you do not even need to keep track of which is which.
When you get back home and you are in your warm, dry home, and you have a hot cup of coffee/hot chocolate/or even a shot of Rye in hand. Scan each photo and keep track of the ones you like, dump the one you don't, and then look at the photo info, write down what you felt looked the best for the type of photo you wanted. Each photo, keeps the info and that's why you can concentrate on the photograph rather than what you were dong when you shot it…
Here is an example of "carefree" shooting and then when you get home, you can see the settings that pleased you…
BTW: I took this photo with my
Mini 2 and yes, the sky is in the wrong place… I included this particular photo to lighten the mood… I was coming too hot, forgot I was in Sport Mode, and I could not slow down enough. I was standing in front of a pavilion at a local park and it slid in for a landing on the pavilion roof. I am so, so lucky, it was almost stopped but not quite… It only flipped over. My wife was with me and I enabled the "Find My Drone" and it sounded so mournful up there on the roof, on it's back, so I took a photo… My wife told me to turn it off, "It sounds like it's crying…"
As I said, I was lucky, a foot lower and it would have smacked the girder that supports the roof.
Back on point, if you like the photo you shot, Scroll the photo up and the recorded data will be exposed (yes, an intention pun…) and you'll know where your speed and aperture is best set…
Enjoy!
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