Manual Camera settings Explained

[sli-woody]

A quick video explaining how to set your drones camera with the latest Dji Firmware:

 

[EyesWideShut]

A quick video explaining how to set your drones camera with the latest Dji Firmware:

Good tutorial, you did make it Simple and Easy!

One point about the filters is that they are mainly used on the mini for video as you explained to adjust exposure. They may not be required for still shooting and may need to be taken depending the effect you want. That requires another tutorial...

 

[theDRONEranger]

I do NOT own the Mavic Mini. I want to qualify that from the get go. But this info does apply, not just to the Mavic Mini, but almost all cameras as well. (Still and Video)

The Exposure Triangle (EV) - The Exposure Triangle is the name given to the three main elements of the camera’s exposure: the ISO, the Aperture, and the Shutter Speed. These elements all help to control the amount of light which is getting to the digital light sensor in the camera. The Aperture is the size of the opening in the lens. This opening controls how much light is let through to the digital sensor in the camera. The Shutter Speed is the length of time that the shutter of the camera remains open for when a picture is being taken. The ISO is the name given to the basic measure of light sensitivity in your digital camera.

The Mavic Mini (like some other DJI drones) has a fixed Aperture of f2.8, a fairly open aperture. We get excellent pictures (stills and video) from it, just as it is. ND filters reduce the amount of light entering the aperture with no effect on the hue. ND filters apply the filtering equally to all light entering the lens. When using ND filters, your stops need to be adjusted, because, simply put, the amount of light has been reduced. In this case, the aperture cannot be adjusted simply because it is at fixed stop, so the adjustment compensations need to come via other means within the EV. Namely, either the ISO or Shutter Speed. Normally a shutter speed of 2X your frame rate is an excellent setting, however, you may need to drop even lower when using the ND filters.

The number associated with an ND filter (ND4, ND8, ND16, ND32, . . . ) indicates that how much light enters the lens in terms of a fraction. For example, an ND4 reduces the light by 1/4 which would equal approximately 2 stops, ND8 reduces by 1/8 - requiring 3 stops, ND16 reduces by 1/16 - requiring 4 stops, ND32 reduces by 1/32 - requiring 5 stops. So, because using an ND filter on a fixed Aperture of f2.8 gives you no opportunity to reduce the f-stop, adjustments must be compensated by using the remaining 2/3's of the triangle - the Shutter Speed or ISO, or even a combination of the two. SWAG! Play with the two to find your optimal settings. Then write them down for future use.

Recommendation: Before going out and spending $70, $80, or more for a reliable ND filter set, try using just a CPL (Circular Polarizing Lens). What is it?: It is a polarizing filter which reduces glare and reflections on non-metallic surfaces, such as water or rocks. ... A neutral density (ND) filter differs from a polarizing filter in that it (the ND filter) doesn't have any impact on the color of your image, but they excel at blocking out light.

 

[sli-woody]

I do NOT own the Mavic Mini. I want to qualify that from the get go. But this info does apply, not just to the Mavic Mini, but almost all cameras as well. (Still and Video)

The Exposure Triangle (EV) - The Exposure Triangle is the name given to the three main elements of the camera’s exposure: the ISO, the Aperture, and the Shutter Speed. These elements all help to control the amount of light which is getting to the digital light sensor in the camera. The Aperture is the size of the opening in the lens. This opening controls how much light is let through to the digital sensor in the camera. The Shutter Speed is the length of time that the shutter of the camera remains open for when a picture is being taken. The ISO is the name given to the basic measure of light sensitivity in your digital camera.

The Mavic Mini (like some other DJI drones) has a fixed Aperture of f2.8, a fairly open aperture. We get excellent pictures (stills and video) from it, just as it is. ND filters reduce the amount of light entering the aperture with no effect on the hue. ND filters apply the filtering equally to all light entering the lens. When using ND filters, your stops need to be adjusted, because, simply put, the amount of light has been reduced. In this case, the aperture cannot be adjusted simply because it is at fixed stop, so the adjustment compensations need to come via other means within the EV. Namely, either the ISO or Shutter Speed. Normally a shutter speed of 2X your frame rate is an excellent setting, however, you may need to drop even lower when using the ND filters.

The number associated with an ND filter (ND4, ND8, ND16, ND32, . . . ) indicates that how much light enters the lens in terms of a fraction. For example, an ND4 reduces the light by 1/4 which would equal approximately 2 stops, ND8 reduces by 1/8 - requiring 3 stops, ND16 reduces by 1/16 - requiring 4 stops, ND32 reduces by 1/32 - requiring 5 stops. So, because using an ND filter on a fixed Aperture of f2.8 gives you no opportunity to reduce the f-stop, adjustments must be compensated by using the remaining 2/3's of the triangle - the Shutter Speed or ISO, or even a combination of the two. SWAG! Play with the two to find your optimal settings. Then write them down for future use.

Recommendation: Before going out and spending $70, $80, or more for a reliable ND filter set, try using just a CPL (Circular Polarizing Lens). What is it?: It is a polarizing filter which reduces glare and reflections on non-metallic surfaces, such as water or rocks. ... A neutral density (ND) filter differs from a polarizing filter in that it (the ND filter) doesn't have any impact on the color of your image, but they excel at blocking out light.

The purpose of adding an ND filter to the MAvic Mini is so you can control the Shutter Speed. For example; so you can double the frame rate to give you the most natural looking motion blur in video and photos.
I would say a CPL filter is pointless for 99% of amateur drone pilots and I personally wouldn't recommend, they are angle sensitive and only work when rotated to an exact setting. (You cant rotate the filter when your drone is flying). So when you're filming or taking a photo with your drone, unless you have a pre-planned flight, that is at the correct angle with the sun, the reflected surface, and the filter is rotated exactly to the point it removes the glare, then you wont notice any difference to your photos or videos.

 

[theDRONEranger]

Quite correct, when using the ND the shutter speed will need to be changed or the ISO. One or the other or both. Absolutely right about the CPL. Pain in the . . . You could run circles until you get it right.
If ya wanna have fun sometime, try the ND10K (on camera) pointed down a busy street during the day. You can make a ghost town picture as practically all objects in movement will disappear. Cool effect. I have only seen one person use it and the result was way cool.

 

[Huttcraft]

Thanks Sli-Woody. Your video was clear and concise. I especially liked your real illustrations of the effects of different ND filters on your camera’s picture. This is a great service to other MM pilots.

Does anyone have a video comparing the actual improvement one can achieve using manual settings and a filter, vs DJI’s baked-in auto settings? I understand manual settings and filter improve motion sensitivity and blur. But is it worth messing around with add-on lenses? I bought a set for the Phantom 3S I flew for years, but after the novelty of week 1 wore off I found myself hardly using them.

Dave

 

[sunshinewelly]

I thought you could not change shutter speed when taking video on the mini only on photos

 

[CarstenB]

that option was brought to us with the last update

 

[sunshinewelly]

cheers