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Mavic 2 Zoom ND4 - is it hardly use?

PCP

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Hi,

I am about to purchase some sets of 4 ND/PL filters, but I can pick the filter range I want.

Since the Mavic 2 Zoom is in f2.8 which the aperture is so big, if I shoot in 1/50 or 1/60, is ND4 hardly able to use?
Should I go for the ND8 and above? Thanks.

PCP
 
Thanks for all the reply.
Would you get those with polarizer like 16PL, 32PL 64PL, or just ND.
Since they are same price, should I go for the PL as I can turn them into ND if I don't use the PL.
Is that a CON to use those ND/PL? Should I just get the ND only?
What do you guys think? Thanks
 
Thanks for all the reply.
Would you get those with polarizer like 16PL, 32PL 64PL, or just ND.
Since they are same price, should I go for the PL as I can turn them into ND if I don't use the PL.
Is that a CON to use those ND/PL? Should I just get the ND only?
What do you guys think? Thanks

I have the PL versions and I do find they introduce some colors I would rather do without. For instance at sunset the color of the snow turns blue. More than you’d normally expect. Also it really makes greens pop in certain light which is fine unless you don’t want that green in which case it’s really hard to mute the green channel without messing up other colors with green but aren’t actually green.
 
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I have the PL versions and I do find they introduce some colors I would rather do without. For instance at sunset the color of the snow turns blue. More than you’d normally expect. Also it really makes greens pop in certain light which is fine unless you don’t want that green in which case it’s really hard to mute the green channel without messing up other colors with green but aren’t actually green.
I do have both ND and the olarized series too. Unless there is a large body of water or a closeup of a stream I don’t use the PL much ... just in those situations to reduce reflection from the water and make it easier to see into it.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. I would need to think of which to get.
 
Keep in mind it is not just F2.8, as the Zoom unfortunately does not have a constant aperture. The Zoom drops all the way down to F3.8 at 48mm equivalent, which is almost a full stop slower than F2.8 @ 24mm equivalent. This is especially annoying because you need to stop and adjust your exposure after zooming (if you want it to be even), which also often means swapping to a weaker ND filter.

I'd also suggest not getting the PL's at all until you fully understand how best to use them as they are not something you can just leave on and forget about like a normal ND.
 
Keep in mind it is not just F2.8, as the Zoom unfortunately does not have a constant aperture. The Zoom drops all the way down to F3.8 at 48mm equivalent, which is almost a full stop slower than F2.8 @ 24mm equivalent. This is especially annoying because you need to stop and adjust your exposure after zooming (if you want it to be even), which also often means swapping to a weaker ND filter.

I'd also suggest not getting the PL's at all until you fully understand how best to use them as they are not something you can just leave on and forget about like a normal ND.

Good reminder on the zoom lens that make the aperture change.
I actually know well how the polarizer work, but don't understand why not too many ppl using them on drone. (I am a photographer but new to drone)
- One thing I saw on internet said if it isn't turn it to the right angle, it could get part of the sky darker than the other side.
- Brett8883 also mentioned that it introduce some color change.
May be there is more things to concern that I don't know yet.
 
Good reminder on the zoom lens that make the aperture change.
I actually know well how the polarizer work, but don't understand why not too many ppl using them on drone. (I am a photographer but new to drone)
- One thing I saw on internet said if it isn't turn it to the right angle, it could get part of the sky darker than the other side.
- Brett8883 also mentioned that it introduce some color change.
May be there is more things to concern that I don't know yet.
I only use polarizing filters when shooting a things like a shallow ocean over coral reef or clear running stream with a cool bottom. It reduces surface reflections.
 
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If I get the Polarpro adjustable ND/PL filter, when I don't need polarization effect, I just need to dial it down to no polarization area, then I would just get a normal ND filter? Am I right?
 
If I get the Polarpro adjustable ND/PL filter, when I don't need polarization effect, I just need to dial it down to no polarization area, then I would just get a normal ND filter? Am I right?

That is actually not how they work. Polarization strength is determined by your angle to the sun regardless of what you set the rotating dial to (i.e. where polarization might be almost eliminated in one direction might be very strong in another as soon as you turn the drone). Unless you maintain a constant heading for your entire flight, you are going to run into uniformity issues.

Polarization is strongest 90 degrees to the sun in any direction, and eliminated at 0 and 180 degrees to the sun. The rotating dial does not turn polarization on or off, but rather alters the angle at which maximum polarization is achieved (to a point - it's not like an on/off switch). You never want to just fly around casually with a polarizer on as you will get very uneven footage. Polarizers have their place because the effect cannot be replicated in software, but they are extremely annoying to use on drones. You need to set the polarization on the ground and fly a very specific unidirectional flight path - as soon as you alter from that, your footage will change, which generally people do not want happening mid-shot. The level of polarization also effects your exposure, not just the color of the image, so it's just not worth it most of the time IMHO unless you have a carefully planned flight over a coal reef or something where polarizers add a dramatic effect. I have NDPL's and I use normal ND's 99% of the time.

I actually have an issue with how Polar Pro advertises their "Vivid" series of filters, as it is quite misleading. Buyer beware I suppose to know how polarizers work, but reading their marketing materials gives the buyer the impression that they will just make your footage more vivid with no caveats, of which there are many.
 
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That is actually not how they work. Polarization strength is determined by your angle to the sun regardless of what you set the rotating dial to (i.e. where polarization might be almost eliminated in one direction might be very strong in another as soon as you turn the drone). Unless you maintain a constant heading for your entire flight, you are going to run into uniformity issues.

Polarization is strongest 90 degrees to the sun in any direction, and eliminated at 0 and 180 degrees to the sun. The rotating dial does not turn polarization on or off, but rather alters the angle at which maximum polarization is achieved (to a point - it's not like an on/off switch). You never want to just fly around casually with a polarizer on as you will get very uneven footage. Polarizers have their place because the effect cannot be replicated in software, but they are extremely annoying to use on drones. You need to set the polarization on the ground and fly a very specific unidirectional flight path - as soon as you alter from that, your footage will change, which generally people do not want happening mid-shot. The level of polarization also effects your exposure, not just the color of the image, so it's just not worth it most of the time IMHO unless you have a carefully planned flight over a coal reef or something where polarizers add a dramatic effect. I have NDPL's and I use normal ND's 99% of the time.

I actually have an issue with how Polar Pro advertises their "Vivid" series of filters, as it is quite misleading. Buyer beware I suppose to know how polarizers work, but reading their marketing materials gives the buyer the impression that they will just make your footage more vivid with no caveats, of which there are many.

Thank you very much CanadaDrone. Very detail explanation. After reading your post, I think I will just get the ND set first, then get the PL if I feel I need them in the future. Thanks for your the value info folks :)
 
Thank you very much CanadaDrone. Very detail explanation. After reading your post, I think I will just get the ND set first, then get the PL if I feel I need them in the future. Thanks for your the value info folks :)

You're very welcome Thumbswayup I think that is a good plan.
 
Keep in mind it is not just F2.8, as the Zoom unfortunately does not have a constant aperture. The Zoom drops all the way down to F3.8 at 48mm equivalent, which is almost a full stop slower than F2.8 @ 24mm equivalent. This is especially annoying because you need to stop and adjust your exposure after zooming (if you want it to be even), which also often means swapping to a weaker ND filter.

I'd also suggest not getting the PL's at all until you fully understand how best to use them as they are not something you can just leave on and forget about like a normal ND.


Your view about ND PL. I bought a ND PL8 it works fine in sunlight. PL with ND means it is a Polarizer.

But then I know very little about video recording and taking picture.

I will appreciate any of your suggestion.
 

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