MAVIC 2 ZOOM:SHUTTER TOO HIGH, BLACK VISION

[JORGE SM]

Good. I need help, thanks. Before yesterday I went to see a medieval tower and I wanted to record it with the mavic. having one of the walls of the tower, the main one, facing the mavic, in a straight line and on the right the sun. The sun was on the right side, not in front. The fact is that the vision of the camera on the screen of the mobile was almost black and as it was ascending it was clarifying a little, until upon reaching the ceiling and lowering the gimbal, it already looked almost perfect. When it rose, and it was dark, the shutter was at 8000, the normal is much lower. Making tests, if you change the mode record video to photo, it looked perfect. Suddenly it is as if you were in a dark room (in video recording mode) and when passing a motorcycle photo, the room light would come on. Attached image and video link. If you are so kind as to tell me what you should do to correct this situation Regards
Jorge

 

[monty.roman]

what you're experiencing is because the camera is in automatic mode. It changes exposure automatically according to recorded scene.

To prevent this from happening you can lock the exposure (best way is to set AE lock function to some of configurable buttons) or you can tune your exposure manually. You!ll probably have to do it for each scene with different light conditions but you will achieve best results that way.

 

[JORGE SM]

what you're experiencing is because the camera is in automatic mode. It changes exposure automatically according to recorded scene.

To prevent this from happening you can lock the exposure (best way is to set AE lock function to some of configurable buttons) or you can tune your exposure manually. You!ll probably have to do it for each scene with different light conditions but you will achieve best results that way.

Thank you very much for answering. Excuse my awkwardness, but it is the second mavic I have and so far it had never happened to me, maybe I touched something and I don't know what it is and that is why now this is new. I understand that I have to click on the AE icon (the lock) ?? I have done it and it remains blue. As is correct, that is blue or white. Why does the photo option not happen? Regards

 

[monty.roman]

not sure about the icon but I believe it should be blue when exposure is locked (currently I have Mavic Air where the interface is a little bit different). Anyway the best way is to get used to manual settings - it gives you much more control over exposure, white balance and ISO (plus the camera stays in the same settings until you change it so the shutter speed and color tone won't be jumping during recording).

 

[JORGE SM]

not sure about the icon but I believe it should be blue when exposure is locked (currently I have Mavic Air where the interface is a little bit different). Anyway the best way is to get used to manual settings - it gives you much more control over exposure, white balance and ISO (plus the camera stays in the same settings until you change it so the shutter speed and color tone won't be jumping during recording).

Again, thank you very much. I am doing tests and indeed, the padlock of the AE if pressed and turns blue, the auto exposure is blocked, so when moving the drone / camera, the automatic values are not modified. I am watching videos, to try to understand and solve the issue that the shutter value is so high. It never happened to me.

 

[monty.roman]

Again, thank you very much. I am doing tests and indeed, the padlock of the AE if pressed and turns blue, the auto exposure is blocked, so when moving the drone / camera, the automatic values are not modified. I am watching videos, to try to understand and solve the issue that the shutter value is so high. It never happened to me.

shutter value goes up when exposure metering deals with some very bright object. for cameras without adjustable aperture (M2Z like most of DJI drones, except for Phantom 4 Pro and M2P, have fixed aperture) is increasing shutter speed (and lowering ISO) the only way to adjust exposure. Simply said, higher shutter speed equals lower brightness (since the light will get to the sensor for a shorter amount of time).

Camera automatic settings are preogrammed to do as much as possible to maintain preferable exposure of the current frame so if the ISO is already lowest possible (100), shutter speed will jump up even to 1/8000 if necessary.

 

[JORGE SM]

shutter value goes up when exposure metering deals with some very bright object. for cameras without adjustable aperture (M2Z like most of DJI drones, except for Phantom 4 Pro and M2P, have fixed aperture) is increasing shutter speed (and lowering ISO) the only way to adjust exposure. Simply said, higher shutter speed equals lower brightness (since the light will get to the sensor for a shorter amount of time).

Camera automatic settings are preogrammed to do as much as possible to maintain preferable exposure of the current frame so if the ISO is already lowest possible (100), shutter speed will jump up even to 1/8000 if necessary.

Exactamente es lo que pasó, se fue el obturador a 8000.
Pero con el ZOOM, que es el que tengo, que solución le darías??
En la telemetría tenía el parámetro AFC activado. Tendría que haber grabado en modo manual, antes de despegar ??

 

[monty.roman]

exactly. you should definitely use manual settings. exposure and any other value can be adjusted anytime during flight according to light conditions of scene you're capturing. If you want to have longer shutter speeds in bright conditions, you will need negative density (ND) filters installed on the camera lens. just be aware that additional filters placed on stock lens can cause more reflections and eventually ruin your pictures.

Actually it's no problem to have high shutter speeds for shooting stills but it can be a problem for video, where high shutter speed can cause stuttering effect and video is not smooth. That's why you should try to achieve shutter speed double of framerate - for example: shooting 4K at 30 frames per second requires the shutter speed around 1/60s for nice cinematic motion blur effect but even 1/100 is still acceptable.

 

[JORGE SM]

exactly. you should definitely use manual settings. exposure and any other value can be adjusted anytime during flight according to light conditions of scene you're capturing. If you want to have longer shutter speeds in bright conditions, you will need negative density (ND) filters installed on the camera lens. just be aware that additional filters placed on stock lens can cause more reflections and eventually ruin your pictures.

Actually it's no problem to have high shutter speeds for shooting stills but it can be a problem for video, where high shutter speed can cause stuttering effect and video is not smooth. That's why you should try to achieve shutter speed double of framerate - for example: shooting 4K at 30 frames per second requires the shutter speed around 1/60s for nice cinematic motion blur effect but even 1/100 is still acceptable.

Good again. Yesterday afternoon I went to pilot and continue enjoying this aircraft.

The same thing happened, as soon as I turned on the drone, the screen was filled with light, on exposure, it looked almost all white. After fiddling, I found the most comfortable solution. By more comfortable I mean not using the manual mode, I leave that for later, I wanted to film without wasting much time with the manual configuration, until I practice more.

Then, on the 5-position button, on the left and on the right it is set as less and more exposure. I don't know why, I suppose that at some point I will have touched him and he stayed like that, he was at -3. And from there it did not move as much as it touched in the configurations, I thought that automatically, being in automatic mode, it would be corrected depending on the light detected by the application.

Then I pressed the lower exposure button and THAT WAS THE SOLUTION, as I was pressing it was going down and it was looking better. When I reached 0, it was perfect and I could fly as usual.

Thank you very much for your attention. I hope that if someone else reads this post, it will help.

regards

 

[GadgetGuy]

Good again. Yesterday afternoon I went to pilot and continue enjoying this aircraft.

The same thing happened, as soon as I turned on the drone, the screen was filled with light, on exposure, it looked almost all white. After fiddling, I found the most comfortable solution. By more comfortable I mean not using the manual mode, I leave that for later, I wanted to film without wasting much time with the manual configuration, until I practice more.

Then, on the 5-position button, on the left and on the right it is set as less and more exposure. I don't know why, I suppose that at some point I will have touched him and he stayed like that, he was at -3. And from there it did not move as much as it touched in the configurations, I thought that automatically, being in automatic mode, it would be corrected depending on the light detected by the application.

Then I pressed the lower exposure button and THAT WAS THE SOLUTION, as I was pressing it was going down and it was looking better. When I reached 0, it was perfect and I could fly as usual.

Thank you very much for your attention. I hope that if someone else reads this post, it will help.

regards

Unlike all other DJI drones, the right scroll wheel on the M2 Zoom is not set to exposure compensation when using automatic exposure, because it is, instead, permanently dedicated to the Zoom function. So, the exposure compensation had to be moved somewhere else, which you discovered by mistake. Glad you got it sorted out and now know how to fix it. Also, unless you are panning the camera, the high shutter speed will not create judder during forward flight, so no need for ND filters, unless you desire a smooth cinematic look and are panning a lot in bright sunlight.