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Mavic Pro Battery Mod

Did you do anything with the balance charge leads of the additional battery?
No. That battery had a small puncture from me separating the Mavic battery housing and met its demise in a salt water bath. Could hardly see it but I smelled the fruity smell and knew it from previous lipo fails.
 
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I know those batteries don't come apart as easy as some YouTube videos suggest! I got mine apart after taking around 1.5 hours of careful cutting and levering......

I'll be home tomorrow and ready to install my Titan cyclone antenna and start soldering up the batteries.
 
Thinking about running a pair of these , anyone run them ?
Thunder Power RC TP4500-3SHV

A couple here have and seems to like them, I have on mav and phantoms and thought they weren't worth the $$. High resistance and didnt burn even on the 3 pairs I tried. These proteks are light and seem well built, I'm trying big ones on the phantoms right now a the #'s are promising, the company boasts of they're low resistance and long life cycles
ProTek RC 3S 100C Silicon Graphene HV Shorty LiPo Battery (11.4V/3600mAh) [PTK-5116-17] | Rock Crawlers
 
Ciao a tutti, questa è la prima volta che scrivo di questo gruppo, mi dispiace il mio inglese, ma sono italiano e sto scrivendo con Google translate.
Sono molto interessato a inserire batterie extra, in particolare la modifica del cavo nella batteria, saldato sui terminali, quindi se avessi problemi non perderò la garanzia Dji.
Vedo che ci sono 150 pagine di post, per compiacere coloro che hanno apportato il cambiamento per un lungo periodo, puoi dirmi se è ancora buono e darmi un consiglio?
Grazie
 

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Hi everyone, this is the first time I write about this group, I'm sorry for my English, but I'm Italian and I'm writing with Google translate.
I am very interested in inserting extra batteries, especially the cable modification in the battery, welded to the terminals, so if I have problems I will not lose the Dji warranty.
I see there are 150 pages of posts to please those who have changed for a long time, can you tell me if it's still good and give me a tip?
Thank you


Hey Gianlu! I like that your first post is a pic of a chopped up battery, that's awesome! Its been a while since i did that but my advice is to check the pos and neg lead with a meter to make sure they aren't making contact and be careful that the leads don't get in the way of the propellers when you attach your carryon battery. Oh and I think you copied the wrong part on goggle translate so i'll try.
 
I found a broken original battery to do the tests. The pin clamps plus the connection is stable. did someone else change the battery?
 
Can anyone tell me the type of connector used at the front of the DJI battery for balance leads? I ordered some of these JST-XH plugs from eBay but when they got here they are too big and not correct type.....
 
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Butcher? I have no idea what you're talking about. [emoji16]


dronemods-352.png

Me either :)
 
Guys hang it from the bottom like DirtyBum did
when you are attaching the battery make sure to get it to the front as much as possible. I was mounting to far back and getting terrible speed. moved to forward just below the camera and gained 3 mph over total flight time.
 
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Reading online about internal resistance, some opinions state that IR isnt that important to battery performance other than maybe extra heat which could result in poor life span. i'm no battery expert despite having had a million charge/discharges(exaggerated)
What you guys think?
Whats number is considered low IR?
 
Reading online about internal resistance, some opinions state that IR isnt that important to battery performance other than maybe extra heat which could result in poor life span. i'm no battery expert despite having had a million charge/discharges(exaggerated)
What you guys think?
Whats number is considered low IR?

C rating is normally linked to the internal resistance. Batteries above 40C rating should have relatively low resistance and maintain high voltage under load. Multistar LiHV is strange in that it is the one battery that has a fairly low C rating (10C), yet voltage has very little drop under load.
 
C rating is normally linked to the internal resistance. Batteries above 40C rating should have relatively low resistance and maintain high voltage under load. Multistar LiHV is strange in that it is the one battery that has a fairly low C rating (10C), yet voltage has very little drop under load.

Whats your typical multistar resistance #? I've never checked. But I was checking the IR on proteks I was flying on the P3 this weekend (again very promising #'s,estimated 64 min flighttime) and the IR showed
aver. 4 ohms on my charger.
 
Whats your typical multistar resistance #? I've never checked. But I was checking the IR on proteks I was flying on the P3 this weekend (again very promising #'s,estimated 64 min flighttime) and the IR showed
aver. 4 ohms on my charger.
Never check resistance. Only check the voltage sag.

64 minutes projected runtime! I want to hear more about those battery setup!
 
Never check resistance. Only check the voltage sag.

64 minutes projected runtime! I want to hear more about those battery setup!

On phantom3, so a little off topic for this thread, but since you asked,
6127919d245801b173b536a693515e5d.jpg
only my third flight with these, I'm only running to 50% because the company suggest to do that the first 5 to 10 times to break them in, normally I ignore that guideline but because this is the most expensive battery I've ever bought I decided to treat them nice. They've been showing better flight times with each flight, so I suspect they're going to be great by 20 charges. These Proteks always have .10 less volts at the end of the flight than the main battery, which I've never seen with any of the battery brands I've ran, makes me think that at the end of a record run they will have given all they got instead of leaving some in the tank.
They also have a very hard plastic case that has to weigh a lot, that I haven't removed yet. The 8.5 MAh i'm running in series, so once I split those (2) 2S batteries and make an 8.5 3S for the mav I can only suspect that they'll be lighter and have even less resistance. Airdata UAV - Flight Data Analysis for Drones short flight so no real idea what a long distance run would be, but the numbers look OK to me
(BTW, The main battery I'm flying with has 50+ charges that has been ran down to zero many times so I'm sure I could do better with a new battery)
 
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Reading online about internal resistance, some opinions state that IR isnt that important to battery performance other than maybe extra heat which could result in poor life span. i'm no battery expert despite having had a million charge/discharges(exaggerated)
What you guys think?
Whats number is considered low IR?

I'm no lipo expert either I look at it like plumbing and blocked pipes vs clean pipes and the fact it takes more energy to push the water through the blocked ones. And I know that it matters when your trying to squeeze every last bit of energy towards going for the distance. .All the MS batteries i have are between 4 to 6 milliohms per cell. A good example of a high resistance battery that i know you know about is the original split 5200's remember the yellow junk for the phantom? of course you do because i'm sure they pissed you off too.. They measure at 25milliohms per cell. What crap! If i had the meter when i bought it i would have returned it. In the end i think we just want the externals to drain at the same rate as the dji battery. Here ya go bd Rodger explains it well A Guide to Understanding LiPo Batteries...
 
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Interesting read, thanks Chazz. Yes, I remember the yellow **** mod, it worked really good for Florida, then everybody else bought it and got the same crappy results.
 
Whats your typical multistar resistance #? I've never checked. But I was checking the IR on proteks I was flying on the P3 this weekend (again very promising #'s,estimated 64 min flighttime) and the IR showed
aver. 4 ohms on my charger.
64 minutes :eek: wowThumbswayup
 
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