Mavic pro2 controller issues.

[bcwoodcarver]

My controller for my2022 pro2 has a screwed USB port and will not charge. I have a second controller from a mavic zoom 2020 that dies charge. I tried use the zoom controller with the pro2 with no success. Can the zoom controller be paired with the pro2 drone? Od do I need to send the controller into dji foe repair

 

[GFields]

Yes, if I'm not mistaken the Zoom and Pro 2 use the same controller. I started to buy the Pro 2 camera so I could interchange it with the Zoom but never did. I wound up buying an Autel EVO Lite Plus instead.

 

[bcwoodcarver]

Tried zoom controller but the pro 2 range height etc was restricted. Thanks for the help

 

[waynorth]

Tried zoom controller but the pro 2 range height etc was restricted. Thanks for the help

The Zoom and Pro uses the same controller.
I have two Pro's and one Zoom, and two RC1A and one RC1B controller. They are all interchangeable and compatible. My drones and controllers run the same firmware, and the same version of Go4.

You can open the controller and replace the USB-port yourself. It's not difficult, and there are good instructions on youtube.

 

[Aerialskape]

I’ve got the same problem, sent it to dronedoctor.co.uk, £110 to repair. I’ve tried to repair one in the past with limited success…

 

[KB9Radio]

Tried zoom controller but the pro 2 range height etc was restricted. Thanks for the help

Range and height restriction has to be do to a setting. Maybe it's in beginner mode or not logged on to your account or something like that.

 

[PHZ]

On the Pro 2 controller, that charging port is a bit of a problem. I broke mine the first charge. Now (with the replacement controller), I treat it with TLC.

 

[bcwoodcarver]

The Zoom and Pro uses the same controller.
I have two Pro's and one Zoom, and two RC1A and one RC1B controller. They are all interchangeable and compatible. My drones and controllers run the same firmware, and the same version of Go4.

You can open the controller and replace the USB-port yourself. It's not difficult, and there are good instructions on youtube.

Hi I have connected the zooms controller and it will power up but it switches from aircraft connected to disconnected and flashes mag interference when no magnet or metal is close.
Not in beginner mode.

The Zoom and Pro uses the same controller.
I have two Pro's and one Zoom, and two RC1A and one RC1B controller. They are all interchangeable and compatible. My drones and controllers run the same firmware, and the same version of Go4.

You can open the controller and replace the USB-port yourself. It's not difficult, and there are good instructions on youtube.

 

[waynorth]

Hi I have connected the zooms controller and it will power up but it switches from aircraft connected to disconnected and flashes mag interference when no magnet or metal is close.
Not in beginner mode.

The mag interference message comes from the drone, not the RC.
Take the drone and RC outside, and power them on. If the message still appears, calibrate the drone as instructed on the screen. Also check for mag interference in the menu under sensors state. The bar should be green.
You say disconnected, do you mean the drone does not respond to commands from the RC? Or do you lose image transmission but can control the drone with the sticks?

What if you start the drone without phone/tablet, just use the small screen in the RC? If the problem persists, it could be a faulty controller.

 

[bcwoodcarver]

The mag interference message comes from the drone, not the RC.
Take the drone and RC outside, and power them on. If the message still appears, calibrate the drone as instructed on the screen. Also check for mag interference in the menu under sensors state. The bar should be green.
You say disconnected, do you mean the drone does not respond to commands from the RC? Or do you lose image transmission but can control the drone with the sticks?

What if you start the drone without phone/tablet, just use the small screen in the RC? If the problem persists, it could be a faulty controller.

Lose image transmission but can control drone for a few seconds.
Tried calibrate drone but it stalls at step 2/5.
Shows mag interference with no metal near drone or controller.
Thanks for any help.

 

[bcwoodcarver]

Lose image transmission but can control drone for a few seconds.
Tried calibrate drone but it stalls at step 2/5.
Shows mag interference with no metal near drone or controller.
Thanks for any help.

Hi just tried with controller only. Same result intermittent connection

 

[bcwoodcarver]

No help available here?

 

[Felix le Chat]

No help available here?

One or two things....

a) the busted charge port.
The busted charge/video out port on the controller left shoulder is an easy DIY fix that will cost you the Canadian equivalent of between £30 and £40 (sterling). Buy a new button board from eBay and search YouTube for "replace Mavic 2 controller button board" for the step-by-step video.

The fact that this is knackered enough to not transfer charge into the controller battery also means that it is not going to transmit a stable video signal from the controller to the device you're using as your flight screen.

I think you would be best off concentrating on this as being suspect no #1.

b) controller compatibility.
Mavic 2 Zoom controller: usually RC1A. Mavic 2 Pro: usually RC1B. EXACTLY the same controller in every way bar one - the chipset on the RC1B was produced by another manufacturer. I use both controllers with my mav 2 zoom (one as primary RC (flight) and the other at the same time for independent camera control). Both have no problem controlling the drone.

c) control signal dropout.
But the ORIGINAL Zoom controller (RC1A) when used as the flight controller will drop the control AND the live video signal between drone and controller every time, sometimes within 30 feet. It does this because it transmits by default on the 2.4ghz frequency where it always encounters extreme attenuation (shown on the 'image transmission state' graph on the relevant menu tab) and won't automatically flip C&C transmission up to 5.8ghz, which it is supposed to do in these circumstances.

So if THIS is what the problem is (loss of stick control AND video feed): before you try to fly the 2 Pro again, pair the Zoom controller and then go to the transmission tab in the controller menu screen and MANUALLY select the 5.8ghz band. Now try flying. This solves the same problem I have with my one Mavic 2.

Hope this classes as 'help'. Best regards.

 

[bcwoodcarver]

One or two things....

a) the busted charge port.
The busted charge/video out port on the controller left shoulder is an easy DIY fix that will cost you the Canadian equivalent of between £30 and £40 (sterling). Buy a new button board from eBay and search YouTube for "replace Mavic 2 controller button board" for the step-by-step video.

The fact that this is knackered enough to not transfer charge into the controller battery also means that it is not going to transmit a stable video signal from the controller to the device you're using as your flight screen.

I think you would be best off concentrating on this as being suspect no #1.

b) controller compatibility.
Mavic 2 Zoom controller: usually RC1A. Mavic 2 Pro: usually RC1B. EXACTLY the same controller in every way bar one - the chipset on the RC1B was produced by another manufacturer. I use both controllers with my mav 2 zoom (one as primary RC (flight) and the other at the same time for independent camera control). Both have no problem controlling the drone.

c) control signal dropout.
But the ORIGINAL Zoom controller (RC1A) when used as the flight controller will drop the control AND the live video signal between drone and controller every time, sometimes within 30 feet. It does this because it transmits by default on the 2.4ghz frequency where it always encounters extreme attenuation (shown on the 'image transmission state' graph on the relevant menu tab) and won't automatically flip C&C transmission up to 5.8ghz, which it is supposed to do in these circumstances.

So if THIS is what the problem is (loss of stick control AND video feed): before you try to fly the 2 Pro again, pair the Zoom controller and then go to the transmission tab in the controller menu screen and MANUALLY select the 5.8ghz band. Now try flying. This solves the same problem I have with my one Mavic 2.

Hope this classes as 'help'. Best regards.

OK thanks.

One or two things....

a) the busted charge port.
The busted charge/video out port on the controller left shoulder is an easy DIY fix that will cost you the Canadian equivalent of between £30 and £40 (sterling). Buy a new button board from eBay and search YouTube for "replace Mavic 2 controller button board" for the step-by-step video.

The fact that this is knackered enough to not transfer charge into the controller battery also means that it is not going to transmit a stable video signal from the controller to the device you're using as your flight screen.

I think you would be best off concentrating on this as being suspect no #1.

b) controller compatibility.
Mavic 2 Zoom controller: usually RC1A. Mavic 2 Pro: usually RC1B. EXACTLY the same controller in every way bar one - the chipset on the RC1B was produced by another manufacturer. I use both controllers with my mav 2 zoom (one as primary RC (flight) and the other at the same time for independent camera control). Both have no problem controlling the drone.

c) control signal dropout.
But the ORIGINAL Zoom controller (RC1A) when used as the flight controller will drop the control AND the live video signal between drone and controller every time, sometimes within 30 feet. It does this because it transmits by default on the 2.4ghz frequency where it always encounters extreme attenuation (shown on the 'image transmission state' graph on the relevant menu tab) and won't automatically flip C&C transmission up to 5.8ghz, which it is supposed to do in these circumstances.

So if THIS is what the problem is (loss of stick control AND video feed): before you try to fly the 2 Pro again, pair the Zoom controller and then go to the transmission tab in the controller menu screen and MANUALLY select the 5.8ghz band. Now try flying. This solves the same problem I have with my one Mavic 2.

Hope this classes as 'help'. Best regards.

One or two things....

a) the busted charge port.
The busted charge/video out port on the controller left shoulder is an easy DIY fix that will cost you the Canadian equivalent of between £30 and £40 (sterling). Buy a new button board from eBay and search YouTube for "replace Mavic 2 controller button board" for the step-by-step video.

The fact that this is knackered enough to not transfer charge into the controller battery also means that it is not going to transmit a stable video signal from the controller to the device you're using as your flight screen.

I think you would be best off concentrating on this as being suspect no #1.

b) controller compatibility.
Mavic 2 Zoom controller: usually RC1A. Mavic 2 Pro: usually RC1B. EXACTLY the same controller in every way bar one - the chipset on the RC1B was produced by another manufacturer. I use both controllers with my mav 2 zoom (one as primary RC (flight) and the other at the same time for independent camera control). Both have no problem controlling the drone.

c) control signal dropout.
But the ORIGINAL Zoom controller (RC1A) when used as the flight controller will drop the control AND the live video signal between drone and controller every time, sometimes within 30 feet. It does this because it transmits by default on the 2.4ghz frequency where it always encounters extreme attenuation (shown on the 'image transmission state' graph on the relevant menu tab) and won't automatically flip C&C transmission up to 5.8ghz, which it is supposed to do in these circumstances.

So if THIS is what the problem is (loss of stick control AND video feed): before you try to fly the 2 Pro again, pair the Zoom controller and then go to the transmission tab in the controller menu screen and MANUALLY select the 5.8ghz band. Now try flying. This solves the same problem I have with my one Mavic 2.

Hope this classes as 'help'. Best regards.

OK thanks . That sounds like it might be the problem . Will try your suggestions this weekend. Except for the self repair, watched the video and know I would break something, so I'll send it to dji. Who are incredibly slow at responding.