View attachment org_ec2cc1fb201aeda4_1561722244000.jpg
All of my Panos look like this. Sometimes worse. Any thoughts on how to fix?
All of my Panos look like this. Sometimes worse. Any thoughts on how to fix?
Pano issues?
- Thread starter ScottM2Zoom1
- Start date
Are all your pano shots composed like that with a totally dark foreground filling the bottom half of the frame and a bright sky in the upper half?
Then the centre image with the full sun blasting through makes it very difficult as the brightness is so much more than the images on either side.
Your panoramas will have a better look if the individual images are all of a similar brightness and not such a stark contrast between the foreground/background brightness.
globetrotterdrone
Well-Known Member
I assume from the automatic stitching (by the drone) that you start your pano with the sun in the middle of the first image. That is somehow ok for a single shot as the exposure is set to these bright scene. The rest of the 360° image is however comparably dark thus the set exposure leaves the pano nearly black and the blending is quite noticeable.
For these high contrast scenes, it would be better to begin the exposure without the setting/rising sun and/or bracket your pano manually (with probably minor deviations of location). There is unfortunately no automatic feature to bracket shots while doing a pano.
If you have set to individually store all images of the pano as RAW (DNG), then you may be better off stitching yourself and handling the contrast with the RAW (darken lights, light the shadows).
Specifically, there's nothing wrong with the process in the bird or your attempt to it. You just have to work around those high dynamic range settings as photographers have for ages now. The sensor is not able to capture everything in one take.
For these high contrast scenes, it would be better to begin the exposure without the setting/rising sun and/or bracket your pano manually (with probably minor deviations of location). There is unfortunately no automatic feature to bracket shots while doing a pano.
If you have set to individually store all images of the pano as RAW (DNG), then you may be better off stitching yourself and handling the contrast with the RAW (darken lights, light the shadows).
Specifically, there's nothing wrong with the process in the bird or your attempt to it. You just have to work around those high dynamic range settings as photographers have for ages now. The sensor is not able to capture everything in one take.
Dang dang dang it! Ok. I guess I've been trying to cheat (so to speak) to avoid post edit. I do shoot my sunrise/sunset underexposed for the contrast. So.....if I Auto or manual set close to auto that will eleminate the problem....then post edit for effect?
globetrotterdrone
Well-Known Member
Maybe ... i've noticed, that the M2P turns a bit before taking the first shot probably to evaluate the exposure across a wider range. Panos tend to come out too dark in general to save the highlights of 50 % of the image (ie the sky).
For a high quality 360° pano under these conditions there's still some post involved I reckon.
For a high quality 360° pano under these conditions there's still some post involved I reckon.
Sounds like trial and error learning curve is in my future both on the shot and post edit. Oh the bleeding begins ? Thanks so much for the replies.
globetrotterdrone
Well-Known Member
I've been taking photos for roughly 25 years now with SLR and later on DSLR.
The Mavic is finally my dream to catch all these scenes, that were inaccessible or just impossible from ground.
Altough having some prior experience one still have to try and learn over and over again. Make it worthwhile and don't put too much stress on yourself if the first or even later ones don't come out as expected. That's completely normal.
Remember that idea, light and composition are as essential in drone photography as the terrestrial ones.
Panos are rather being easy shot by a simple click and a lot of technical wizadry, they are yet difficult to master due to wide field of view.
Happy and safe flying and keep practising.?
The Mavic is finally my dream to catch all these scenes, that were inaccessible or just impossible from ground.
Altough having some prior experience one still have to try and learn over and over again. Make it worthwhile and don't put too much stress on yourself if the first or even later ones don't come out as expected. That's completely normal.
Remember that idea, light and composition are as essential in drone photography as the terrestrial ones.
Panos are rather being easy shot by a simple click and a lot of technical wizadry, they are yet difficult to master due to wide field of view.
Happy and safe flying and keep practising.?
If you look carefully at how the Mavic 2 captures panos you notice that it first raises the camera above the horizon, meters the scene, lowers the camera below the horizon, and then meters again. It averages the exposure between the two metered values and uses that single fixed value to capture all 26 images in the 360 pano (for the 2 Pro).
I've found that by pointing the camera at the brightest part of the sky and then dialing in negative exposure compensation before hitting the shutter to begin the capture sequence I can get much better results. For full sun like this I'd dial in -2 stops first. For scenes where the sky is still very bright but the sun might be behind clouds I only use -0.7 or -1.0 exposure compensation before capture. Granted, the shots taken below the horizon and straight down will likely be dark - sometimes seeming almost black. If you're capturing in raw you can easily boost exposure on the darker frames by 2, or even up to 3, full stops and still have a nice pano.
Attached is a pano that I captured a couple of days ago. In this sequence I dialed in -1.3 stops exposure comp before starting capture. Once downloaded to my computer I balanced exposure across the set in Lightroom before sending the set to PTGui for pano stitching. The darker frames in the set saw exposure boosted by 1 to 1.5 stops in Lightroom. I intentionally left the some of the frames darker to reflect the shadows cast by the big fluffy clouds.
I've found that by pointing the camera at the brightest part of the sky and then dialing in negative exposure compensation before hitting the shutter to begin the capture sequence I can get much better results. For full sun like this I'd dial in -2 stops first. For scenes where the sky is still very bright but the sun might be behind clouds I only use -0.7 or -1.0 exposure compensation before capture. Granted, the shots taken below the horizon and straight down will likely be dark - sometimes seeming almost black. If you're capturing in raw you can easily boost exposure on the darker frames by 2, or even up to 3, full stops and still have a nice pano.
Attached is a pano that I captured a couple of days ago. In this sequence I dialed in -1.3 stops exposure comp before starting capture. Once downloaded to my computer I balanced exposure across the set in Lightroom before sending the set to PTGui for pano stitching. The darker frames in the set saw exposure boosted by 1 to 1.5 stops in Lightroom. I intentionally left the some of the frames darker to reflect the shadows cast by the big fluffy clouds.
Beautiful pic. Ok....I had to read it twice slowing down on second read to visualize each step of the pano shot sequence and how each relates to the finished pic. I completely understand what, why, and how you arrived at pic perfect. I will definately be refining my Panos this evening. I fly an average of 5 hours a day 5-7 days a week. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. And everybody above too.
The OP's shot is just too much contrast between the bright and dark in each individual frame and between the centre shot and adjacent images.
The lighting in yours is much more even which is the key to a good pano.
You've gone too low with yours which makes the lower part of the stitched image distorted as it has to be stretched when you present it as a big rectangle.
To avoid that, you can start higher and catch more sky and not go so low.
Here's a 2-row shot that avoids the distortion issue.
Some things are just too much to be able to correct.
The lighting in yours is much more even which is the key to a good pano.
You've gone too low with yours which makes the lower part of the stitched image distorted as it has to be stretched when you present it as a big rectangle.
To avoid that, you can start higher and catch more sky and not go so low.
Here's a 2-row shot that avoids the distortion issue.
I specifically described the process I use for capture of 360 panos. The image I shared appeared distorted along the bottom because it was a 360 pano image - and I suppose I was too lazy to say so. Here's a link to the full sized image on Kuula.co after using content-aware fill in the sky.
kuula.co
Afternoon clouds in Dripping Springs, TX 20190626-PANO0591-Panorama-Edit
Afternoon clouds in Dripping Springs, TX 20190626-PANO0591-Panorama-Edit
kuula.co
That's a beautiful image! What city is that?The OP's shot is just too much contrast between the bright and dark in each individual frame and between the centre shot and adjacent images.
Some things are just too much to be able to correct.
The lighting in yours is much more even which is the key to a good pano.
You've gone too low with yours which makes the lower part of the stitched image distorted as it has to be stretched when you present it as a big rectangle.
To avoid that, you can start higher and catch more sky and not go so low.
Here's a 2-row shot that avoids the distortion issue.
I too like capturing panos - often 3x2 or 4x2 sized. I create them almost every day of sunrises, sunsets, and cityscapes. Here's one I captured of Austin, TX one afternoon after work a couple of months ago.
Last edited:
Cool pano... especially interesting to me as I spent my childhood in Buda on the backs of Onion Creek... back when it ran cool and crystal clear year ‘round. I love the Hiil Country near Austin! Of course Manchaca was a gas station and it was out in the woods then.I specifically described the process I use for capture of 360 panos. The image I shared appeared distorted along the bottom because it was a 360 pano image - and I suppose I was too lazy to say so. Here's a link to the full sized image on Kuula.co after using content-aware fill in the sky.
Afternoon clouds in Dripping Springs, TX 20190626-PANO0591-Panorama-Edit
Afternoon clouds in Dripping Springs, TX 20190626-PANO0591-Panorama-Edit
Thanks for posting.
That's really coolI specifically described the process I use for capture of 360 panos. The image I shared appeared distorted along the bottom because it was a 360 pano image - and I suppose I was too lazy to say so. Here's a link to the full sized image on Kuula.co after using content-aware fill in the sky.
Afternoon clouds in Dripping Springs, TX 20190626-PANO0591-Panorama-Edit
Afternoon clouds in Dripping Springs, TX 20190626-PANO0591-Panorama-Edit
I had cousins that lived in San Leanna with Slaughter Creek flowing right behind the house. I spent a great deal of time fishing the creek and hunting in the woods in that area while I was growing up.
My aunt’s house was in the middle of a bend around Buda (pop 500 then).. we floated from Barton crossing above Round hole to the low water bridge/ railroad trestle fishing from inner tubes. It was a super place to grow up!
Awesome pano. Beautiful city.Here's a link to the full pano that I posted:
globetrotterdrone
Well-Known Member
Coming back to your image, so by 2-row pano you mean, you started at a higher altitude, descended for the 2nd row to a lower one and merged all the files later on together (50+ pics)?
I would worry of small drift to be enough for stitching errors (as I've been experiencing them slightly already on single row 360° panos with Lightroom).
But great pic indeed!
I shot three rows plus the bottom shots to create the full 360 in the link in post #17.
But the image in post #10 was stitched from just the top two rows.
Unless you are shooting a subject that close to the camera, the very small degree of drift shouldn't even show up in the stitched result.
I would wonder if the issue is really due to drift or if it's something else?
Similar threads
DJI Drone Deals
1. Mini 2
2. Mini 3 Pro
3. Mini 4 Pro
4. Air 2s
5. Air 3
6. Avata 2
7. Mavic 3 Pro
8. Mavic 3 Classic
2. Mini 3 Pro
3. Mini 4 Pro
4. Air 2s
5. Air 3
6. Avata 2
7. Mavic 3 Pro
8. Mavic 3 Classic
New Threads
-
3 Learning Manual with Avata 2 but in S am so much better ;)- Started by alex_markov
- Replies: 0
-
-
-
3 2min short - Chena River State Rec area, Fairbanks, Alaska- Started by akdrone
- Replies: 0
-
Forum statistics
