Playback Glitch

[uavstudmuffin]

Hello. I just bought a Mavic 2 Pro recently. I've probably only used it five times and it's Great with a capital G! I have a 128mb Sandisk sd card that I use. Anyways, when I'm recording in-flight using my iPhone XR everything looks perfect on the screen, no problems there. The problem is after I'm finished recording I take the sd card and upload the footage to my laptop for playback. I use the windows 10 video player most times and never had any issue with it. Within about 13 seconds there is a green flash that pops up on the screen in just one frame and it's back to normal. I get to 27 seconds in playback and the same thing happens. The last glitch is at 50 seconds like I said just one frame. I was thinking it could be the issue with the windows player. Next, I download VLC to playback, and again at 13, 27, and 50 secs that green flash pops up for just one frame. I used it on Premiere Pro, Davinci Resolve, and Filmora, still that green glitch still shows up. I'm assuming now that it has to be a mistake I made on the settings, I'm just not sure what. I'll attach a still of the flash. Hopefully, that helps. I know this is long so ask me what settings I'm using now and I'll reply.

 

[Deleted member 103366]

Could the video resolution be too high for the computer?
Under win 7 I can't use full resolution from a mavic mini but on the same computer some video will play under win 10 but I still haven't tried full resolution.

 

[DanMan32]

If the green frame always shows up at the same spot in the recording, then it's probably the card. I've gotten glitches too, but it clears up if I backed up a bit and replayed, or checked each frame, which means the issue is in playback.

There's a lot of data in the recordings where many GPUs can't keep up. When I upgraded my graphics card, the issue improved.

However if it turns out the blip is in the actual recording, you could have too slow of a card, or it has a bad spot. Mavics since the original Air require cards spec'd at U3. For SanDisk, that would be Extreme or better. Ultra is not fast enough.

 

[jimlips]

There are also fake Sandisk SD cards out there. Even if you bought them from Amazon, they get reported and the Amazon closes out the seller, but they keep showing up as someone else and sell them cheap. There are several videos on YouTube explaining how you can tell the difference:

 

[uavstudmuffin]

There are also fake Sandisk SD cards out there. Even if you bought them from Amazon, they get reported and the Amazon closes out the seller, but they keep showing up as someone else and sell them cheap. There are several videos on YouTube explaining how you can tell the difference:

And that's exactly where I got it from. I saw someone who mentioned there are better-recommended sd cards for drone footage. I'll have to check back to see what that brand is. I was also filming with d-log h.265 but all my footage is upload to Instagram and they only except mp4 (H.264) I then had to convert all of my footage to meet their requirements. I'm thinking the problems could've occurred during the conversion. I was also till recently only shooting at 4K 30fps but I changed it to 24fps. I'm trying to remember at what point did I do that since only 2 out of 5 videos had the glitch.

 

[uavstudmuffin]

Well I found the problem. I edited all of the footage I had using Windows 10 Video Editor. It was something I just discovered and it was quick and easy. I checked my footage before the editing began which I had originally sent to the trash bin presumptuously, restored them and the footage had no glitches or any type of distortion of any sorts. Lesson Learned, all of my footage for now on will be edited through Premiere Pro!!! Everyone says Premiere Pro is more complicated than Davinci Resolve 16 But in my case I used both and I seem to have more control and ease with PP over Davinci Resolve 16. I guess it’s just me. Thanks for the good advice. Vince

 

[monteolsen1]

Thanks for the information. It’s helpful.

 

[Deleted member 103366]

With regards to card checking and fake cards, there are a number of phone apps but as I remember they may require the card to be inserted into the phone but you'd need to check that. What I normally do is connect a new card to my windows laptop then run H2testw on it, it writes files to all the nominally empty space of the card ( so formatting before hand is a good idea) and then reads those files to check if they are intact. I think it is intended as a card size checker, it has found fake cards for me and the seller wasn't too happy as it meant I got a full refund and they didn't get the cards back.
I also run ZarX on a new card, it's a recovery program but in the process produces a temporary map of the card, which I think is useful, you have to watch closely as the program nears the end of the read phase as the map disappears once the read phase has finished.