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Shutter speed
- Thread starter Annevanzwol
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60
It shows you how fast it can shutter. 8000 is 1/8000 s, and 60 is 1/60s. 8" is 8s.
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Thx. Makes sense. 1/60 is bright when Iso is like 100 or 200. What are normal Iso values during daytime? I guess this is where the ND filters come in. Most of the time I am at auto now. Want to take it to the next level.
You ideally want to keep ISO at 100. It's the darkest setting anyway. You never want to push it past 400. The higher, the brighter, but also the noisier the image. So you want to also use ND filters to darken the image appropriately so your shutter speed can remain constant. Also keep in mind the faster the shutter, the less details it's able to take in. It's great for high speed stills, but the details may start lacking and may start to look like a water painting and not a photo. A slower shutter captures more details, but will make high-speed stills look blurry. For videos you want a shutter speed of 1/(2*fps). So when recording, pick the setting that closest matches the desired speed. So it all depends on the scenarios, and you have to experiment yourself to figure out what works best for you. These tips should help you get started.
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Help me understand this as it seems counterintuitive. Wouldn't a slow shutter speed cause more motion blur and hence show fewer details? How does a slower shutter speed capture more details? I don't get that.
Your thinking backwards in this sense. Yes it does cause motion blur, but that's not what I meant by details. Details refers to being able to take in more colors thus producing a picture that looks more like a picture and not a water painting. If you have a perfectly still scene and the camera is perfectly still, you won't have any blur. If you take a slow shutter picture, you see a more diverse color profile and the picture essentially has better detail versus when you snap the same scene with 1/8000, which you will come to notice may end up looking more like a water painting.
Ah. My interpretation to what you just said: slower shutter equals more color depth equals more detail. However, hard edges, such as high contrast areas could be compromised if the subject is in motion (relative to the sensor). Yes?
Yes. The longer the shutter is open, the blurrier it can become if the sensor see motion during capture.
Huh? A slower shutter speed means a "more diverse color profile" and "better detail" than one taken at a faster shutter speed? Never heard of that before. Can you supply any references/links supporting this assertion?
My personal experience with testing shutter speeds. I've noticed slightly better coloring with slower speeds and the picture looked overall better than a fast one.
My experience is the complete opposite. I get the 'watercolour' effect with a low shutter speed. Flying on auto and a high shutter speed always results is a sharp picture. When I use an ND filter so that I can lower my shutter speed to 1/60 I run into problems.
That's been my experience. I think there is a threshold in the amount of light coming into the sensor that causes the issue with the sensor not being able to determine detail when the colours are too similar. Like a low dynamic range. Perhaps I used the wrong filter and blocked too much light?
I guess everyone has a different experience when using the camera. I guess everyone needs to do what the feel generates the best result.
Exactly...try taking a picture with it set to Auto with no ND filter and then do the same with the ND filter on and compare the shutter speeds....it will drop your shutter speed exponentially based on what ND filter you are using (i.e. 4/8/16/32/64). You can over compensate with too much filtration so you need to experiment and find what works best for you. Once you have a good feel on what filter to use when, then you can take it out of Auto and start fine tuning the settings to find the perfect settings for you.
Are you doing this in Auto mode or manually adjusting the shutter speed to 1/60? I have found that relying on what it does in Auto is not always best. Try one lower ND filter (example: go from a ND32 to a ND16) and then manually lower your shutter speed and see if that looks better...
Always on manual, so I can set my shutter to FPS x 2 @ ISO 100
I use the Polar Pro IOS app to determine the correct ND filter. I use no filter and Auto to check the shutter speed. Then I plug those parameters into the app to determine the best ND filter to use for the scenario.
halley
Well-Known Member
The LAST principle. Light, Aperture, Sensitivity, Time.
If you double any one of these, you have to cut something else in half to maintain the exposure. Adjusting each of these also has a distinct side-effect.
* Light affects overall scene balance and contrast.
* Aperture (fixed on the Mavic) affects depth of field.
* Sensitivity affects grain or sensor noise.
* Time affects motion.
So if you have a sunny day but you want low sensitivity (ISO 100) you have to either cut the shutter time (1/3000 second) and get really sharp motion-free frames, or cut the light (ND16) to regain the exposure contrast without blowing out any detail. For still photography, small shutter time is usually preferable. For videography with a moving camera, the shutter time should allow a little bit of camera motion blur to smooth out the panning motion... but can also reduce the sharpness overall.
If you double any one of these, you have to cut something else in half to maintain the exposure. Adjusting each of these also has a distinct side-effect.
* Light affects overall scene balance and contrast.
* Aperture (fixed on the Mavic) affects depth of field.
* Sensitivity affects grain or sensor noise.
* Time affects motion.
So if you have a sunny day but you want low sensitivity (ISO 100) you have to either cut the shutter time (1/3000 second) and get really sharp motion-free frames, or cut the light (ND16) to regain the exposure contrast without blowing out any detail. For still photography, small shutter time is usually preferable. For videography with a moving camera, the shutter time should allow a little bit of camera motion blur to smooth out the panning motion... but can also reduce the sharpness overall.
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