Video auto vs manual questions

[samd012]

I am pretty well versed in camera settings. I have done still photography for many years. I completely understand iso, av, tv and their relation to each other on top of what they do. In still photography its pretty easy for me to get the exposure correct. On digital cameras the use of av and tv priority mode make things pretty flexible. My question comes in when it comes to video and manual settings with the mavic. With the mavic not having priority av, tv and iso modes when you are shooting video in manual the changes that need to be done on the fly seem over whelming especially on a day with clouds and sun. I finally decided to go with the taco nd filters and are waiting for them to arrive which will help but am I missing something? How many people shoot video on manual? Still pictures I am good with.

 

[Filmscum]

I only shoot manual in both modes. Use your NDs to get your shutter speed correct (twice the frame rate) and always try to shoot at the lowest ISO you can. If it's a mixed day (clouds and sun) try to set everything when it's sunny and then if the sun suddenly goes behind a cloud just adjust your iso. You try to keep it at 100 but if you need to step it up a few to say 400 it's not going to introduce much noise until you get a little higher than that. Also use the EV and try to keep it at or near 0, this really helps out on a sunny day if you can't really tell if you're exposed correctly. And I never use auto WB, you'll usually get color shifts as your flying. Some people leave it on auto with good results but I'm from the school of "everything manual".

 

[samd012]

I appreciate the reply filmscum (sorry not sure what else to call you lol). Where I am having the disconnect is if I adjust the iso mid shoot I will see that drastic change in my video. I have access to final cut pro and one of the best instructors on it in the area so I can get help ramping up on it quicker but man is this a completely different ball game compared to still photography. It took me years to get stills down and I am always still learning on that, I'm getting too old for this S _ _ _! LOL

 

[Filmscum]

Oh gotcha so you're talking in the middle of a shot. Not much you can do there you'll see whatever changes you make, just like in auto exposure mode. Best thing is to set it before your shot and leave it, you can do some adjusting in post with keyframes and such, but unless it's a drastic change I usually just leave it. That's why on big shoots you have a lighting department! And yes, moving images are a different beast altogether than still ones.

As far as what to call me that's my screen name so you're all good! It's a term we used to use back in the day of film cameras when the camera's loop was off and you would get emulsion buildup in the chamber (film scum). More recently it's a term that is used for anyone (mostly below the line technicians) who works in the motion picture industry.

 

[Robert Mitchell]

I appreciate the reply filmscum (sorry not sure what else to call you lol). Where I am having the disconnect is if I adjust the iso mid shoot I will see that drastic change in my video. I have access to final cut pro and one of the best instructors on it in the area so I can get help ramping up on it quicker but man is this a completely different ball game compared to still photography. It took me years to get stills down and I am always still learning on that, I'm getting too old for this S _ _ _! LOL

I use manual most of the time for video also. Mostly for the reason is that I don't want lighting changes mid scene. This sometimes is problematic, as the lighting can change pretty dramatically depending on camera angle, subject etc.

Remember, the ISO is powerful and small changes have big effects.

Try this: Set to automatic for a given scene and take note of the settings. Sometimes I will even check everything out on the ground and do my setting there (as long as I have the same direction and lighting as I will have in flight)
Keep your ISO as low as possible (your ND filters will do wonders for this) Then, go to manual and adjust your settings close to what you had in auto. That way everything will be "locked in" for the scene. You can still make changes to your shutter speed, using your upper right hand wheel.
Also remember you can always switch back or adjust as the scene changes, once in flight.
Hope I didn't just make it more complicated for you.
And, Yep, I feel ya. Aerial video is a very dynamic and changing exercise, compared to still photography, but has many similarities still. I too have done this for a long time but find it a rewarding challenge.

 

[samd012]

I use manual most of the time for video also. Mostly for the reason is that I don't want lighting changes mid scene. This sometimes is problematic, as the lighting can change pretty dramatically depending on camera angle, subject etc.

Remember, the ISO is powerful and small changes have big effects.

Try this: Set to automatic for a given scene and take note of the settings. Sometimes I will even check everything out on the ground and do my setting there (as long as I have the same direction and lighting as I will have in flight)
Keep your ISO as low as possible (your ND filters will do wonders for this) Then, go to manual and adjust your settings close to what you had in auto. That way everything will be "locked in" for the scene. You can still make changes to your shutter speed, using your upper right hand wheel.
Also remember you can always switch back or adjust as the scene changes, once in flight.
Hope I didn't just make it more complicated for you.
And, Yep, I feel ya. Aerial video is a very dynamic and changing exercise, compared to still photography, but has many similarities still. I too have done this for a long time but find it a rewarding challenge.

That is an awesome idea Rob, you did not confuse me. When I first started learning still photography that is the technique I used to help me out in the beginning when I was first learning iso, av and tv. I just thought the flight modes on the Mavic were cool when I saw them but I am quickly learning they are essential with everything else you need to keep up with.

 

[Robert Mitchell]

That is an awesome idea Rob, you did not confuse me. When I first started learning still photography that is the technique I used to help me out in the beginning when I was first learning iso, av and tv. I just thought the flight modes on the Mavic were cool when I saw them but I am quickly learning they are essential with everything else you need to keep up with.

Yes, and those who think they are just going to start making epic aerial cinematic video without any background, knowledge, or practice whatsoever are in for a surprise. It is a never ending learning curve, and might be why I love it so much.

 

[Filmscum]

30 years in the business and I'm still learning! These tools we have now are quite amazing. 10 years ago (heck even less than that) to get quality aerials you had to rent a helicopter, a pilot, a Tyler Mount (gyro stabilized head for your camera) usually a camera assistant who knows the Tyler Mount, fuel for the heli, etc etc etc. A few hours shooting would easily cost $10,000.

 

[blackcamo]

Very interesting read.
Here's the story to laugh:
On Monday I went for a day trip, 3am to 10pm, packed with shooting including some breathtaking - for what I've shot with mavic until then- epic. I've been changing my nd filters, taken care to not under/overexpose, kept my shutter speed at 1/50 most of the time and smoothed out the moves if I couldn't.
It was in the evening, back home, when I discovered that the resolution has been reset by the last update to 1080p 48fps. All is mushy and oil painted like. Whole **** day I've been keeping eye on every other setting! And it was right in front of my eyes. I find it funny now, but I was disturbed for the past two days...

 

[Robert Mitchell]

Very interesting read.
Here's the story to laugh:
On Monday I went for a day trip, 3am to 10pm, packed with shooting including some breathtaking - for what I've shot with mavic until then- epic. I've been changing my nd filters, taken care to not under/overexpose, kept my shutter speed at 1/50 most of the time and smoothed out the moves if I couldn't.
It was in the evening, back home, when I discovered that the resolution has been reset by the last update to 1080p 48fps. All is mushy and oil painted like. Whole **** day I've been keeping eye on every other setting! And it was right in front of my eyes. I find it funny now, but I was disturbed for the past two days...

Oh man that sucks! Glad you are feeling better about it now.

All mishaps are learning opportunities right?

I actually made the camera settings an item on my preflight checklist for that very reason! In the old days my gopro would actually reset behind my back, lol!

 

[CashCache]

I'm still learning too, but here is my advice for what it is worth. I shoot in manual mode all the time. I try to keep my ISO at 100 and use the same ND filters (Taco) to stop down the light so my EV is as close to zero as possible. I do move ISO if needed, but never above 400. I do not use automatic white balance since it's hard to correct later. I pay a lot of attention to the EV value. I like to keep it at zero if I can, but if not, I will choose to shoot below zero rather than above zero. What I have found is that once you image is over exposed, the detail in the whites and highlights is gone and there is no way to get it back. Being a little under exposed makes things much easier to correct and adjust in post.

You asked how this works on cloudy days. For me, it means I end up shooting a good portion of my video (4k) at ISO 100 and 1/60 for shutter, but my EV is slightly negative. I never change any of these settings during the shot - just between shots. The rest, as they say, can be fixed in post!

Hope this helps...

Scott

EDIT: I forgot to mention I also shoot everything in D-Log.

 

[Robert Mitchell]

I'm still learning too, but here is my advice for what it is worth. I shoot in manual mode all the time. I try to keep my ISO at 100 and use the same ND filters (Taco) to stop down the light so my EV is as close to zero as possible. I do move ISO if needed, but never above 400. I do not use automatic white balance since it's hard to correct later. I pay a lot of attention to the EV value. I like to keep it at zero if I can, but if not, I will choose to shoot below zero rather than above zero. What I have found is that once you image is over exposed, the detail in the whites and highlights is gone and there is no way to get it back. Being a little under exposed makes things much easier to correct and adjust in post.

You asked how this works on cloudy days. For me, it means I end up shooting a good portion of my video (4k) at ISO 100 and 1/60 for shutter, but my EV is slightly negative. I never change any of these settings during the shot - just between shots. The rest, as they say, can be fixed in post!

Hope this helps...

Scott

EDIT: I forgot to mention I also shoot everything in D-Log.

Pretty much same approach Scott. Only difference is I will go slightly above EV0 if it is a bright subject like sand or snow because it looks muddy if middle grey.

Dittos on color balance and ND filters also.