Video Signal Range ~ Normal?

[Felix le Chat]

What range?... Okay: here comes the confession - in the first week of buying her, I flew out a little over 1.5 miles on the default frequency (2.4gHz) and it didn't drop a bar. That's the limit of my experience.

After I'd got that out of my system, I knuckled down to using the camera for what it had been bought for: landscape photography, surveying old buildings and close detail shots of striking architectural features, happy in the knowledge that the control signal was overpoweringly strong and rock solid for close and medium range stuff.

Then the midden hit the windmill (firmware 'upgrade') and I had to find a workaround. The Zoom went from bulletproof reliable to liability - I'd get signal dropout if I flew it more than 50' away from the controller (horizontally or vertically)

 

[Jumpyman]

What range?... Okay: here comes the confession - in the first week of buying her, I flew out a little over 1.5 miles on the default frequency (2.4gHz) and it didn't drop a bar. That's the limit of my experience.

After I'd got that out of my system, I knuckled down to using the camera for what it had been bought for: landscape photography, surveying old buildings and close detail shots of striking architectural features, happy in the knowledge that the control signal was overpoweringly strong and rock solid for close and medium range stuff.

Then the midden hit the windmill (firmware 'upgrade') and I had to find a workaround. The Zoom went from bulletproof reliable to liability - I'd get signal dropout if I flew it more than 50' away from the controller (horizontally or vertically)

Hey Felix ~ wow, now that's the kind of range I'd expect. . and I feel the same way. . I like to KNOW that I have that kind of range but don't really see using it but it's nice to be able to fly a distance away without constantly looking at your signal strength meters. I'm always Googling after one of your resonpses! Now I know what "Midden" is! So, do you still get that kind of range with your Pro? And I imagine the "workarounds" are what you already mentioned e.g. Drone Hack, 5.8 gHz, TOAL close to POI, no obstacles, etc.? I was able to get "Drone 1" (original that I hadn't really flown with the Gimbal issue) connected to the standard controller (so I didn't have to update the SC) and I have to say the range certainly SEEMS better. . 1000' out with no signal drop at all. I plan to go to a controlled location and test both with the same controller and compare and see what I get and take it from there. Have you ever taken the bottom cover off your M2? I was just going to check the antenna leads but I removed all 6 screws that I saw and was lifting it off but then there was "resistance" at the part closest to the gimbal. . figured I didn't want to create a 3rd issue. . so just put the screws back. Anyway, thanks again for the info and insights ~ my "return window" for Drone 2 with range issue is about 1 1/2 weeks from now. . other than that it flys great!

 

[Felix le Chat]

Yes, I've stripped and reassembled various parts on the Mav. 2 airframe, the bottom cover has to be opened like a book cover after screw removal - there's a connector cable for the bottom lights and the O/A and I/R sensors... it will only lever up in one direction, then you have access to pop the connector off.

How people fly their drones depends on what they intend to achieve. All my drones are airborne high resolution digital cameras first and foremost, not FPV drones to be flown around like a bat on cocaine... the DNG picture is the only thing I'm interested in and detail is the king.

A strong control signal gives me the confidence to pursue the shot... a choppy signal is a massive liability when you're trying a close approach to a built structure that is over 500 years old.

 

[Jumpyman]

Yes, I've stripped and reassembled various parts on the Mav. 2 airframe, the bottom cover has to be opened like a book cover after screw removal - there's a connector cable for the bottom lights and the O/A and I/R sensors... it will only lever up in one direction, then you have access to pop the connector off.

How people fly their drones depends on what they intend to achieve. All my drones are airborne high resolution digital cameras first and foremost, not FPV drones to be flown around like a bat on cocaine... the DNG picture is the only thing I'm interested in and detail is the king.

A strong control signal gives me the confidence to pursue the shot... a choppy signal is a massive liability when you're trying a close approach to a built structure that is over 500 years old.

Hey Felix! First, I'd love to see some of your footage. . youtube anywhere? Second: I highly doubt there's a cable that's loose. . I'd think if THAT was the case I'd get a LOT less range and if it was relatively easy to pop the bottom cover off and take a peek I'd do that but if disconnecting lights and sensors is involved, I might just cause a problem rather than solve one. 3) Wow, that's quite the visual. ". .a bat on cocaine"! Yeah, I'm kinda after the same as you. . the confidence to "pursue the shot" without staring at the signal strength meters. I suppose I'll just hold on to it since it functions just fine and maybe I can tweak it here and there to increase the range. . and Mavic 2 Pro's are just getting more and more scarce so if I DO decide to sell it I shouldn't LOSE any $$$? Thanks again for your input and patience with my "newbie" questions