Weird colouring on sunrise video? How do I fix this?

[PC1134]

This is bizarre. While photographing in the Australian Red Centre, I was using my M2P to shoot video and stills. The first three images are taken from a video, and the last was taken on RAW photo and processed in Photoshop.

The first two were taken just as the sunrise started to shine strongly and had massive yellow light, to the point it's totally blown out my video. The third shot was taken a few minutes before the sun cracked the horizon fully and you can see it's much more balanced. The last shot (still photo) was taken after the bright sun had abated a bit.

The videos here were taken all on automatic ISO and exposure. I had with me (but stupidly) didn't use any ND filters, so I'm guessing the brightness of the sun was just too much for the sensor?

So I'd be keen for some assistance on what I could have done to abate this issue, and also now that I have them, processing them in Da Vinci Resolve, I'm having real difficulty in toning down the bright yellow highlights.

Thanks in advance,
Sean

 

[brett8883]

This is bizarre. While photographing in the Australian Red Centre, I was using my M2P to shoot video and stills. The first three images are taken from a video, and the last was taken on RAW photo and processed in Photoshop.

The first two were taken just as the sunrise started to shine strongly and had massive yellow light, to the point it's totally blown out my video. The third shot was taken a few minutes before the sun cracked the horizon fully and you can see it's much more balanced. The last shot (still photo) was taken after the bright sun had abated a bit.

The videos here were taken all on automatic ISO and exposure. I had with me (but stupidly) didn't use any ND filters, so I'm guessing the brightness of the sun was just too much for the sensor?

So I'd be keen for some assistance on what I could have done to abate this issue, and also now that I have them, processing them in Da Vinci Resolve, I'm having real difficulty in toning down the bright yellow highlights.

Thanks in advance,
Sean

Check to see that the video format isn’t HLG you are shooting in otherwise it’s just incredibly overexposed.

The images all came out it was just the video that looks bad right? If you post the original video file in a google drive folder or Dropbox then we can view the meta data and be able to help a little more.

 

[Meta4]

The videos here were taken all on automatic ISO and exposure. I had with me (but stupidly) didn't use any ND filters, so I'm guessing the brightness of the sun was just too much for the sensor?

Whatever settings your camera chose, they were quite wrong for the lighting conditions.
The sun too much for the sensor? Perhaps if you were staring straight at it.
But the whole point of the variable shutter speed, ISO and aperture is to control the amount of light getting to the sensor in any conditions and with the sun behind your drone, the auto metering should have had no difficulty getting a good exposure.
If those images are from the same flight, did you mess with the exposure compensation?
Without being able to see what the actual settings were, it's going to be hard to say which of your settings was wrong.

 

[brett8883]

This is bizarre. While photographing in the Australian Red Centre, I was using my M2P to shoot video and stills. The first three images are taken from a video, and the last was taken on RAW photo and processed in Photoshop.

The first two were taken just as the sunrise started to shine strongly and had massive yellow light, to the point it's totally blown out my video. The third shot was taken a few minutes before the sun cracked the horizon fully and you can see it's much more balanced. The last shot (still photo) was taken after the bright sun had abated a bit.

The videos here were taken all on automatic ISO and exposure. I had with me (but stupidly) didn't use any ND filters, so I'm guessing the brightness of the sun was just too much for the sensor?

So I'd be keen for some assistance on what I could have done to abate this issue, and also now that I have them, processing them in Da Vinci Resolve, I'm having real difficulty in toning down the bright yellow highlights.

Thanks in advance,
Sean

In your camera settings under the menu that has a gear icon turn on the histogram this will give you an objective measure of the exposure so you can avoid this in the future.

I tried to make you a LUT to fix the video you have but the camera simply didn’t record the missing information so there’s really no getting it back

 

[paulatkin73]

This is bizarre. While photographing in the Australian Red Centre, I was using my M2P to shoot video and stills. The first three images are taken from a video, and the last was taken on RAW photo and processed in Photoshop.

The first two were taken just as the sunrise started to shine strongly and had massive yellow light, to the point it's totally blown out my video. The third shot was taken a few minutes before the sun cracked the horizon fully and you can see it's much more balanced. The last shot (still photo) was taken after the bright sun had abated a bit.

The videos here were taken all on automatic ISO and exposure. I had with me (but stupidly) didn't use any ND filters, so I'm guessing the brightness of the sun was just too much for the sensor?

So I'd be keen for some assistance on what I could have done to abate this issue, and also now that I have them, processing them in Da Vinci Resolve, I'm having real difficulty in toning down the bright yellow highlights.

Thanks in advance,
Sean

so, to concentrate on 'how to fix' stage - as you got davinci resolve - but we do not know your skill level - look up those 2 videos, as for initial info they are sufficient.

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it will not be easy to completely correct what you got there, for sure, but you can try to recover color balance. as of prevention measures - on the go4 screen always have histogram active, and make sure to switch video format to h265 and dlog-m color, as it dramatically increases dynamic range available in your recording. if video was done in that mode, you can correct a lot later - except of the overexposure. for that, as stated earlier - ND filter is your helper, and, always look at the histogram on the go4 app screen.
just from a look i may think your video mode was probably set to M and you forgot to adjust it from the other day shooting, perhaps, so, it did overexpose quite a bit. i stopped doing that - using M mode, and keep video setting in aperture mode letting it to choose the shutter speed - this way light transitions are working out better when you rotate the craft. with a ND8 and ND16 filter on shutter will be still close enough for 1/60 - 1/120 range on most days to keep the feed watchable.

look at the tutorial on color correction, if you have any specific questions, you can ask either here, or, better on the davinci specialized forums.

 

[ff22]

so, to concentrate on 'how to fix' stage - as you got davinci resolve - but we do not know your skill level - look up those 2 videos, as for initial info they are sufficient.

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it will not be easy to completely correct what you got there, for sure, but you can try to recover color balance. as of prevention measures - on the go4 screen always have histogram active, and make sure to switch video format to h265 and dlog-m color, as it dramatically increases dynamic range available in your recording. if video was done in that mode, you can correct a lot later - except of the overexposure. for that, as stated earlier - ND filter is your helper, and, always look at the histogram on the go4 app screen.
just from a look i may think your video mode was probably set to M and you forgot to adjust it from the other day shooting, perhaps, so, it did overexpose quite a bit. i stopped doing that - using M mode, and keep video setting in aperture mode letting it to choose the shutter speed - this way light transitions are working out better when you rotate the craft. with a ND8 and ND16 filter on shutter will be still close enough for 1/60 - 1/120 range on most days to keep the feed watchable.

look at the tutorial on color correction, if you have any specific questions, you can ask either here, or, better on the davinci specialized forums.

Just watched video 1. Do you know how many times I'd have to watch it to understand anything? (g) I must be TOO OLD!

 

[paulatkin73]

Just watched video 1. Do you know how many times I'd have to watch it to understand anything? (g) I must be TOO OLD!

this is a pro grade video editing software - to be able to work with it is an above average complexity skill. i do not know even a quarter of what one can do in that suit, but, to run a simple video conversion with some minor corrections is doable. only problem - my old PC is not up to the task with anything complex, i think i will need to shell out this year to get this new 12 core AMD chip, 3900 or what it is, to get to 5ghz level. just hate to spend so much on something i do not really need, as to do it properly will end up a $2-$3K build, most likely.
from other perspective, it is quite a long term perspective investment, a machine i have now, 64gb ram, i7-5930k running at 4.1ghz - i have built it during winter of 2015, so, it is not quite bad... may be it is finally a time to move up.

 

[paulatkin73]

to stay on the prevention topic - from playing with this pro 1" sensor i can say one can underexpose up to 2 stops, really, and it still has acceptable quality of the image in the shadows - not too much noise and good colors. zoom one is garbage, but this 1" sony sensor is quite good. so, the way i do it now - when i get to make a video, i set it to the A mode, ND4 or ND8 filter on, usually at 3.2 aperture, and set 'exp' correction to -0.5 to have a slightly darker image. without nd filter when you rotate toward sun you may get overexposed, so it is easier to keep at least ND4 on all the time.

then in davinci resolve i simply correct it back with a gain wheel based on the histograms. it is not difficult, just takes some practice.

 

[gnirtS]

A few things, ND filters do not affect dynamic range in any way shape or form so if the scene has a high range you're going to get issues regardless, especially in video. They do nothing for the brightness of the sun either.

The video JPGs look over exposed to me - you say auto exposure but what was your EV bias setting showing?

A JPG will be substantially worse than a DNG still file purely because it doesnt contain as much data to pull back shadows and highlights so a processed raw file is going to look better every single time.

 

[paulatkin73]

A few things, ND filters do not affect dynamic range in any way shape or form so if the scene has a high range you're going to get issues regardless, especially in video. They do nothing for the brightness of the sun either.

first part is true, second is false. ND filter reduces overall amount of light, so, presuming you are flying in the A mode and aperture is set to 3.2 - you then have a segment of shutter speeds depending upon rotation of the aircraft - if you have, say, ND8 filter on, then you will end up with 1/40 up to 1/120 or so shutter. so, if you rotate toward sun, your shutter will jump up to, say, 1/1000 and will prevent overexposure.

if you have no ND8 filter on, then your shutter speed will be already high to begin with, in 1/500-1/1500 area or so, if you rotate toward the sun - it will hit the limit and overexpose.

 

[gnirtS]

first part is true, second is false. ND filter reduces overall amount of light, so, presuming you are flying in the A mode and aperture is set to 3.2 - you then have a segment of shutter speeds depending upon rotation of the aircraft - if you have, say, ND8 filter on, then you will end up with 1/40 up to 1/120 or so shutter. so, if you rotate toward sun, your shutter will jump up to, say, 1/1000 and will prevent overexposure.

if you have no ND8 filter on, then your shutter speed will be already high to begin with, in 1/500-1/1500 area or so, if you rotate toward the sun - it will hit the limit and overexpose.

No it wont. Theres more than enough overhead with 1/8000th of a second that even looking directly at the sun on the equator is not going to over expose.
Simply wont happen. 1/8000th, iso100 and a mid range aperture or narrower is not going to hit a limit. Simple as that.