Seems like it should? Depending on the brightness levels, wouldn't f11 help reduce the times you would have to use an ND filter for shutter speeds when filming video?
Will the increased aperture range of the Pro II reduce the need for ND filters?
- Thread starter Apocalypso
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Kilrah
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Let's say you'll likely have to change it a bit less often.
Most lenses with variable apertures are best around the middle and both ends are softer, so if you want best quality you only have about half the latitude the specs mention. Will have to see how it is with that one, but for example one clip from a reviewer's sample was really soft, could come from bad focussing but also from extreme aperture setting.
Most lenses with variable apertures are best around the middle and both ends are softer, so if you want best quality you only have about half the latitude the specs mention. Will have to see how it is with that one, but for example one clip from a reviewer's sample was really soft, could come from bad focussing but also from extreme aperture setting.
Hugely. It should pretty much eliminate them for lots of conditions.
You'll have 4 stops of aperture to play with so basically up to ND16 equivalent. Maybe get 1 filter for bright, direct sunlight but thats it.
CPL still handy for still shots though.
NDs sole purpose in life on a drone is to block light to allow a correct exposure with a slower shutter speed. They don't do any more than that. They're dark glass. ALL they do is affect exposure.
charliesRig
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I get what your saying that the filter only darken the lens... Let's less light in
But is that the case for the covadent
Polarized filter .?
I don't have a PF the set I have are the 3 pak shade filter.
I guess I'm babbling on about
Yes the PF are a pain to set up but they help with glare and inhance contrast and color separating.?
. Sorry for the (grammer/spelling)
Would welcome your feedback....
. Thank... cR
But is that the case for the covadent
Polarized filter .?
I don't have a PF the set I have are the 3 pak shade filter.
I guess I'm babbling on about
Yes the PF are a pain to set up but they help with glare and inhance contrast and color separating.?
. Sorry for the (grammer/spelling)
Would welcome your feedback....
. Thank... cR
Polarising still has a use - you cant do that without a physical bit of glass to filter.
Polariser is good for stills if you set it up specifically for a particular angle shot post flight then take that image. For video where you're changing direction or angle a lot, no point at all. A polariser ONLY has effect (i) if set up pre flight for the exact light source to subject angle and (ii) is flown at that angle again. Outside that it does nothing.
So yes, they help with glare and contrast but ONLY if setup and ONLY for that very precise set of angles during flight. They're great for photos for that reason.
NDs have no effect on contrast, color saturation, glare or anything else. They're just a dark bit of glass designed to slow a shutter. On a fixed aperture drone like the mavic 1 theyre very useful for video (useless for photos). On the MP2 with 4 stops of adjustment via aperture they're not going to be needed except in the very brightest situations.
Polariser is good for stills if you set it up specifically for a particular angle shot post flight then take that image. For video where you're changing direction or angle a lot, no point at all. A polariser ONLY has effect (i) if set up pre flight for the exact light source to subject angle and (ii) is flown at that angle again. Outside that it does nothing.
So yes, they help with glare and contrast but ONLY if setup and ONLY for that very precise set of angles during flight. They're great for photos for that reason.
NDs have no effect on contrast, color saturation, glare or anything else. They're just a dark bit of glass designed to slow a shutter. On a fixed aperture drone like the mavic 1 theyre very useful for video (useless for photos). On the MP2 with 4 stops of adjustment via aperture they're not going to be needed except in the very brightest situations.
Let's not forget about depth of field! THe higher the f-number, the more that's in focus.
You might still want to use a Neutral Density filter if you're trying to keep the shutter speed down and you don't want a very deep depth of field. It's a creative choice.
- Gary
You might still want to use a Neutral Density filter if you're trying to keep the shutter speed down and you don't want a very deep depth of field. It's a creative choice.
- Gary
why are we still discussing what ND filters do (not what ppl "think" they do), and what they are for??
As an Australian I'm not going to suggest we won't need them! those 4 stops will be helpful but I've still been out with the darkest ND and been over exposed on the MP1. I was very interested in the new Polar Pro filters, but held off knowing the the MP2 was coming out. I dare say i'll still end up with a set of ND filters, as you usually don't use wide open or closed so that means that technical shooters won't ever use f/2.8 or f/11, but who knows, those rules we abide by didn't factor in flying cameras.
As an Australian I'm not going to suggest we won't need them! those 4 stops will be helpful but I've still been out with the darkest ND and been over exposed on the MP1. I was very interested in the new Polar Pro filters, but held off knowing the the MP2 was coming out. I dare say i'll still end up with a set of ND filters, as you usually don't use wide open or closed so that means that technical shooters won't ever use f/2.8 or f/11, but who knows, those rules we abide by didn't factor in flying cameras.
We're talking a fairly small sensor which is going to be a fair distance away so not an issue. If you're over 8m or so from the subject, you dont have that creative choice.
Try here:- Online Depth of Field Calculator
Use the Sony RX100 (its got a 1 inch sensor) and 10.55 focal length (2.7 crop factor of 28mm)..
Even wide open at f/2.8 once you hit 4m subject distance you're at infinity focus so stopping down isnt going to change DOF or bokah at all.
I'd venture nearly nobody is taking most of their video of subjects less than 4m away.
This isn't a DSLR. Its a camera with a small sensor that typically operates not inches from its subject so creative blur isnt going to happen.
So nope, you're not going to need NDs for that because even wide open you cant do it unless youre 4m away absolute maximum.
Elton Hammonds
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I chatted with DJI for an hour after the launch event and the customer service rep told me there will be filters offered, but they weren't ready yet.
Filters are on the website (and polar pro have them). The issue is do you need them. The answer is probably not other than a CPL and maybe a single 3 stop ND.
When I bought my first SLR film camera (1969?), my father, who had been an avid amateur photographer since the 1930s, recommended that I always use a filter to protect the lens. His logic was that it is way cheaper to replace a scratched filter than a scratched lens. He suggested that if I didn't need a filter for the shot, then use a UV filter for protection. I bought a MP a couple of years ago as well as DJI's filters. I live on Oahu so it's pretty much always bright out and I just leave the ND16 on the Mavic all the time to lower the shutter speed and to protect the lens. When I buy the M2P (I'll wait for a couple of months) I'll probably leave an ND4 on the lens for protection.
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Can't wait to test and find out! I think I will still buy some (hopefully we will get some quality ones soon?) for longer exposure shorts - which will be needed anyway.
Sunscreen
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A higher aperture range isn't necessarily a substitute for using ND filters. I use ND filters to avoid diffraction in bright conditions.
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